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Old 05-02-2018, 10:36 AM   #21
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Originally Posted by thrifty1 View Post
Well we had an opportunity to work some more on the bus yesterday. I decided to grind off the rest of the stripped screws in the ceiling and sides. After about three screws were done I decided that that was the dumbest decision I had ever made. Changed out the grind wheel for a cutoff wheel and crossed my fingers as I started cutting slots in the head. BOOYAH thatís the ticket. (See pic) I didnít have a single screw that would not come out with a flathead and impact driver. Most of the ceiling is out now and every screw has been removed or slotted.Attachment 20138Attachment 20139Attachment 20140
The cutting a slot was what I did on the rear end cap which I got off by myself but yesterday my son helped me do the front end ceiling panel and we discovered an even easier trick!! The screws were Phillips and were stripped. A *square head bit* got all but four of the screws out that the "correct" bit did not. Those I cut the slot in. WAY faster than cutting slots!! Happy dance! I really wish I had known that when I did the rear cap!!
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Old 05-14-2018, 02:54 PM   #22
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 162
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Well 3 lbs of welding wire and 13 bottles of lexel later we have all new window seals and deletes with the ceiling metal. LEXEL IS THE BEST THING ON EARTH for outdoor sealing applications. You guys should look it up. Now for the flasher lights metal delete....

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Old 05-14-2018, 09:19 PM   #23
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Goose Bay NL
Posts: 131
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 72
Banging out some good progress.

Robertson bits, EZ Grip, and a hammer will go a long way in a Thomas.
EZ Grip is almost like watered down glue with sand in it, but it fills the gaps in the fastener helping apply more torque. Also sometimes a solid whack with a deadblow mallet helps pump some vibration through the fastener helping pop it loose.

nice looking metal work, good to hear that your PC is working out. I have been itching for one for a while.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:12 PM   #24
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Location: Upstate, SC
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
What a project. I stole a design from steampunk Steve using pocket holes to fame the ceiling flush so I can negate thermal induction and condensation and put up plain luan. But one person doing it really is a project. Iíve probably broken 20 screws, but overall I got about 70 percent done in a day. Got all holes in the bus welded, patched and sealed as well. Also got all decals removed, rubber wheel is your best friend.........Chuggin IMG_0875.jpgIMG_0874.jpg
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:09 PM   #25
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Location: Upstate, SC
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Now that we are back from the beach....Let there be holes... in the roof. Did I mention itís hot as balls on a Skoolie roof in SC? Installed the bathroom skylight and the vent/ceiling fan today. Used butyl tape, stainless screws, then taped every seam I created with eternabond tape. I donít think it will leak... side note, my whole bus setup will be 120v but the rv fans only come in 12v. So my solution was to buy a 10 amp 120 to 12v inverter for permanent install in a closet. Can now also tap that line to pull up to 10 amps of 12v power.IMG_0912.jpgIMG_0914.jpg
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Old 06-06-2018, 04:29 PM   #26
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Location: Upstate, SC
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
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242 dollars and 6 hours later.... we have the top half of the bus painted. And yes that is Henryís tropicool all the way down. Itís the south. I am very pleased with the way it turned out and the new window skins will be kept very cool now as well. Bottom half will probably be grey tractor paint. We sanded and prepped with tsp all over and then rolled on the top and sides while my wife trimmed it out. UNBELIEVABLE difference inside the bus now. Normally it would take your breath away but now it is cooler inside the bus than outside with the windows closed and new fan on. Progress. IMG_0917.jpg
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:33 AM   #27
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Location: Upstate, SC
Posts: 162
Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: DTA360
Progress

Remember that rusty emergency exit door? Well itís gone. And Iím very pleased. Also I spent time removing the front broken doors so I can fit my new door in. (Going to be a PITA). Had to cut off the rub rails to make the door rough fit, but Iíll be framing it in with treated 2x4s top and bottom using the steel sides as a jamb. Ended up going with a pre-squared exterior mobile home door. Hope I am contributing to the wonderful idea pool represented here on this site. 👍
Sorry for the crooked photos, Tapatalk wonít let me load from the app.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:24 PM   #28
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
How bad was that rusty door? Have a pic or two? I need a rear International door.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:29 PM   #29
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Year: 1992
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Iíll take a pic when I get home, bottom was rusted out in the middle but repairable with the right tools. I just didnít have time and wanted to delete for insulation properties for spray foaming anyway.
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Old 06-13-2018, 02:12 PM   #30
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Brevard County, FL
Posts: 546
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Where did you end up getting the mobile home door? I think it's a great idea. I'm going to search it now.
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