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05-08-2016, 09:55 AM
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#101
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,259
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 8.3 Cummins ISC
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
im with you on the heater... thats why im leaving every single one of my Busses' 6 Heaters installed and operable!
-Christopher
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THe problem with leaving those heaters in is that you have to have the bus idling for them to be on.
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05-08-2016, 09:59 AM
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#102
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WIbluebird
THe problem with leaving those heaters in is that you have to have the bus idling for them to be on.
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They barely get warm at idle, you gotta be truckin to get heat.
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05-08-2016, 10:16 AM
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#103
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
They barely get warm at idle, you gotta be truckin to get heat.
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Or have a Webasto
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05-08-2016, 10:20 AM
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#104
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
They barely get warm at idle, you gotta be truckin to get heat.
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am I in for a surprise from the way the heat operated in my Gasoline Bus?
it always stayed perfectly warm.. granted I never idled it for long periods of time.. but I do plan to be able in my new bus to stop at rest stops for a couple hours, etc and idle the engine for heat and air-conditioning.
if I need to I can always install a pro-heat or such.. but was thinking id have engine heat for a good while as long as I had been keeping the bus warm prior.. (which isnt a problem for me.. while driving in winter in any vehicle.. I always have the heater blasting)..
I assumed that never to idle from a cold start anyway as I read all kinds of nasty stuff about doing that..
-Christopher
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05-08-2016, 10:51 AM
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#105
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Yea gasoline and diesel engines have different idling characteristics. With a diesel, day you've been driving for a hour or more, the engine is at full operating temp. If you pull over and idle, even without the heaters going, you will begin to drop temp. Diesels are happiest under a load. It's technically not good to idle a diesel. Installing a "up idle" device will help. That's what I'm doing. But it still only helps to an extent.
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05-08-2016, 11:07 AM
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#106
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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I have an up idle knob.. At least it works like that.. There's the knob I pull to shut down the engine and then there's the knob that raises the amount of throttle even when my foot is off he pedal . It's a mechanical cable also like my shut off.. What do you idle at? Like 1000 rpm or so?
I do remember now that I think of it that my dads scout diesel used to not blow real hot air out of both heaters if the fans were on high at idle .. I always just thought it was because the water pump was slow.. The temp gauge in that ran about 1/3 all the time
Christopher
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05-08-2016, 11:41 AM
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#107
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
I have an up idle knob.. At least it works like that.. There's the knob I pull to shut down the engine and then there's the knob that raises the amount of throttle even when my foot is off he pedal . It's a mechanical cable also like my shut off.. What do you idle at? Like 1000 rpm or so?
I do remember now that I think of it that my dads scout diesel used to not blow real hot air out of both heaters if the fans were on high at idle .. I always just thought it was because the water pump was slow.. The temp gauge in that ran about 1/3 all the time
Christopher
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My idle is a little under 600. 550 maybe.
Diesels don't have much for heat at idle. Takes a good 30 mins to get mine up to temp. And thats DRIVING it.
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05-08-2016, 06:24 PM
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#108
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Didn't someone tap into the coolant system with an inline heater to use the bus heaters recently? I was reading that somewhere. Sounds good except for using the 12 v system for a water pump and fans for the radiators. I still like the warm floor idea, but that would mean giving up my L-track.
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05-08-2016, 06:51 PM
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#109
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Didn't someone tap into the coolant system with an inline heater to use the bus heaters recently? I was reading that somewhere. Sounds good except for using the 12 v system for a water pump and fans for the radiators. I still like the warm floor idea, but that would mean giving up my L-track.
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thats what the proheat type system does.. its like a Mini Boiler.. you can also install an APU whuich is a small diesel engine that provides 12 volt, 110 volt, and some of them provide coolant heating.. they are PRICEY.. but do work good..
truckers use them for A/C and keeping their batteries charged.. or recharging..
Semi trucks are notorious for having dead batteries after just a few days idle.. the APU has its own Battery to start it then has a 12 volt alternator.. so you cvan effectively Jump a SEMI from the APU... and the APU can be jumped from a standard jumpbox should you kill its battery too..
-Christopher
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05-08-2016, 06:53 PM
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#110
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 18,830
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DTA360 / MT643
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
My idle is a little under 600. 550 maybe.
Diesels don't have much for heat at idle. Takes a good 30 mins to get mine up to temp. And thats DRIVING it.
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I was meaning what should you idle at to keep an engine at operating temperature? I figured my idle lever would come in handy on those extremely Hot days when i want to spin the A/C compressor but never thought of needing it for heat..
im guessing while Idling it would be best to turn off the defroster heaters and use the Mid / Rear heaters which do not suck any outside air in and only recirculate the already somewhat warm cabin air..
-Christopher
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05-09-2016, 02:31 PM
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#111
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 18
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So did you get all the running/driving issues taken care of before spending time and money on cosmetic mods?
__________________
1967 M109 Deuce and a Half
platetees.com
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05-09-2016, 02:53 PM
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#112
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Yea I was kind of just over reacting I think. Once I pressure washed the engine and undercarriage the oil leak isn't nearly as huge as I thought it was. Still has a leak I can't find. But I will. She runs fine though.
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05-09-2016, 06:10 PM
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#113
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Just thought of something....... should I try and retitle the bus before I do a roof raise? Or do you guys think it'll be ok?
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05-09-2016, 06:26 PM
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#114
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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if LA is anything like FL, it wouldn't matter. Best of luck, man.
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05-09-2016, 06:29 PM
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#115
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
if LA is anything like FL, it wouldn't matter. Best of luck, man.
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Ok cool. They are pretty lax about stuff.
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05-12-2016, 08:00 PM
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#116
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New Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 9
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That's a cool bus
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05-15-2016, 09:47 PM
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#117
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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05-15-2016, 10:21 PM
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#118
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Also, I've discovered my bus doesn't have a wooden sub floor. It's just straight metal with the black rubber sheet stuff on it. Is that common?
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05-15-2016, 11:26 PM
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#119
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbohall001
Also, I've discovered my bus doesn't have a wooden sub floor. It's just straight metal with the black rubber sheet stuff on it. Is that common?
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Keep the pics coming, man. Yeah mine had no wood on the floor. One less thing to strip!
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05-16-2016, 12:06 AM
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#120
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
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Awesome! Also, for anyone interested, the total cost of the guides was roughly $30.
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