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Old 07-07-2018, 08:34 AM   #21
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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Originally Posted by fadderall View Post
You sir have a great looking bus!
Thanks for the kind words on my thread. I was looking at your pics and what is under the puke mat? Was the rubber in yours glued right to the metal? Its hard to tell from the picture looks just like mine with the plywood.

Are you going to insulate? Whats your interior height? Are you putting in plywood or going direct to the metal?

I have that same heater hose line. Are you going to reconnect it, run under the bus like you mentioned? I was thinking of just leaving it and covering with cabinetry, but I like your idea of rerouting. Have you given more thought to that?

Keep up the good work!
Yes my rubber mat was just glued to the metal no plywood. I plan on fully insulating it with foam board then plywood for the subfloor and spray foam ceiling and walls. The heater hoses will be reran under the bus between the frame rails back to the front heater\defrost. My reasoning is once i build out my inside i didn't want a coolant hose to be in the way or bust and ruin everything. The floor to ceiling height in the center is 74" which once i have it framed and built will leave me around 72" ish. That will be kind of tight since i am 6 foot but i don't want to do a roof raise.

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Old 07-08-2018, 08:14 PM   #22
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Originally Posted by Tryonis View Post
Yes my rubber mat was just glued to the metal no plywood. I plan on fully insulating it with foam board then plywood for the subfloor and spray foam ceiling and walls. The heater hoses will be reran under the bus between the frame rails back to the front heater\defrost. My reasoning is once i build out my inside i didn't want a coolant hose to be in the way or bust and ruin everything. The floor to ceiling height in the center is 74" which once i have it framed and built will leave me around 72" ish. That will be kind of tight since i am 6 foot but i don't want to do a roof raise.
Im with you I do not want to do a roof raise (although as time goes that headroom sounds more appealing). I never thought about the heater line busting. Now that you put that in my head, I can see it would be a big pain to get to and remedy after all built out. I guess Im also rerouting. If you take any pictures of the bypass and/or the reroute please let me know. BTW your floor looks pretty clean as is.
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Old 07-09-2018, 07:27 AM   #23
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: GA
Posts: 129
Year: 1998
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
I was surprised to find no plywood when i pulled up the rubber mat which for that i am glad. My floor only has about 2 places where rust dug into the floor but not all the way through and those were right under 2 windows that are leaky. I measured my floor to ceiling height again and its just at 74.5 inches so removing your plywood will give you a hair more space to start from. I sprayed some rust converter on those places and will let that do until i go back and work on the floor. Right now i am working on a million rivets in the walls and ceiling. Even with the air chisel its a pain but i have half of the ceiling panels out now. I am also in no great hurry with my bus and the heat and humidity here in GA is brutal this time of year.
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