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Old 07-17-2016, 09:42 AM   #11
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
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Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
I have a cordless grinder.. a dewalt 20 volter with 3 of the big capacity batteries... the battery charger works great on an inverter in the bus... yes I run grinder batteries down fairly quick but ive found I cant use them as fast as I can charge them with the quickcharge base unit.....

you also get more efficient at grinding or cutting so you use less battery each time you cut...
-Christopher
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Old 07-18-2016, 12:28 AM   #12
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
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Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Here aree the pictures of their bus!

Skoolie - Album on Imgur
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Old 07-18-2016, 09:27 PM   #13
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Upstate, NY For now
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
Thank you everyone for all of your input. Today we spent 6 hours grinding the bolts on the seats. We have most of them out. We hope to get the rest out tomorrow. Any ideas what we can do with the seats? We plan to keep at least two of them to make a breakfast nook. Desaray is really handy with a sewing machine so she will be making covers for them. Then we will situate a table in the middle. We could always scrap the metal and junk the cushions. We were hoping for a better way to utilize them.

We will keep you posted.
Joe and Desaray
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Old 07-18-2016, 11:23 PM   #14
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I would strip the cushions from the frames and recoup whatever cash I could from scrapping the steel. If the foam is still in good shape, remove and trash the vinyl. Use the foam for any cushions you need on your skoolie. Foam has gotten expensive!
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:52 AM   #15
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Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Year: 1973
Coachwork: Gillig
Engine: 1160 V8 Diesel
Rated Cap: 79
Cary Towncat,

For a heat source, you could look into a wood burning stove that is EPA compliant and actually secondary burns the smoke while it's still inside the stove...if you're standing outside you can't even tell it's burning (unless you use wet or green wood). I'm getting the Hobbit stove for mine, check them out! 😊

Propane might be easier if you're in a suburban or city area, though. 👍🏼
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:10 PM   #16
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 391
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
Great looking bus. I bet your excited to get to work on it. I have a 1999 International AmTran with the same engine but MD3060 trans. Good luck on the build and you're in the best place to get help with any questions you may have.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:06 AM   #17
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Mount Victory, OH
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Looks like a very nice rust free bus! Not a fan of the Dayton (spoke) type wheels. Not that it would be an issue. Good luck on your build. Wood stoves are great if you have access to cut wood other wise LP would be a good option.
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:31 AM   #18
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1997
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Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I have a cordless grinder.. a dewalt 20 volter with 3 of the big capacity batteries... the battery charger works great on an inverter in the bus... yes I run grinder batteries down fairly quick but ive found I cant use them as fast as I can charge them with the quickcharge base unit.....

you also get more efficient at grinding or cutting so you use less battery each time you cut...
-Christopher
I have the same grinder and love it! It doesn't spin as fast as a 120vac unit, but it has great torque. There are days where I'll use it for hours at a time and just keep cycling through batteries. My 120vac charger died a couple years back, so I grabbed the 12vdc charger and it works equally well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty_59 View Post
Not a fan of the Dayton (spoke) type wheels. Not that it would be an issue.
I'll expand on this with a link to a thread on Dayton and Budd style wheels: http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f33/wh...nfo-10659.html
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Old 07-22-2016, 07:05 AM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Upstate, NY For now
Posts: 21
Year: 2000
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 300
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
Alright,

Seats are all out. I have a scrapper coming tonight to haul them off for me. We are saving 2 of them. Desaray will be reupholstering them so we can use them to put together our kitchen eating area. 10 day inspection will be up in just a few days. We've made an appointment for monday to get it inspected. Wish me luck! Next i planned to remove the 3/4 in plywood on the floor but, my dad suggested laying foam over it then doing 1/2 in over that. Should we remove the 3/4 ply and why?

After the inspection we plan to continue by removing the ceiling and walls. Spray foam as much as we can afford (Budget is running thin). We are hoping to find a free floor and kitchen cabinets. Gotta love the craigslist free section. We understand insulation is most important (upstate NY winter is cold) we can always put in new cabinets.

Has anyone done tile in their bus? How well does it hold up?

More pictures to come,
Joe and desaray
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:07 AM   #20
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 391
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
If you are going to live full time in your bus I'd definitely take out the 3/4 plywood flooring. Even though it might look ok from the top surface you'll have no way of knowing how much moisture has gotten underneath it and created rust issues on the steel floor.

As for tile in a bus i have seen some folks use small 1 inch tiles for a wood stove surround enclosure but if putting down as a floor I would bet that all the constant flexing of the bus while driving would crack all the grout inbetween the tiles.
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