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Old 09-01-2014, 09:29 PM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
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Year: 2000
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

I removed the windows so that I could use my 4.5" grinder (1.6mm cut off wheel) to cut the tops of the inside panels where they meet the window ledge interior lip. This allowed me to remove the panels but be careful, they are very sharp!

I will add the pics tomorrow...
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:33 PM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Wind Storm + Old Tree = I'm lucky I parked the bus in the driveway! This limb would have clobbered my cars but the bus shook it off like it never happened!
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:35 PM   #23
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Not even a scratch, They sure know how to build a bus!
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:11 PM   #24
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Back working on the bus this weekend. Covered the front flashers and need a new Pop Rivet Gun. 3/16 SS Closed End rivets are tough to install... Used Sikaflex 221 to seal the plates. Looks like it will work well.
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:16 PM   #25
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

So, if your thinking about reworking the wiring harness? Think Twice! I'm going to need to fix a few things and to compound issues, my batteries are dead! I hope this works out and does not become a nightmare...
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:28 PM   #26
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

2000 Montgomery County Schools bus. After removing the floors, using pneumatic scaler, I'm suprised there is not more rust. After I fix the holes, the floor will be good for another 15 years... Additionally, I treated the floor with a rust treatment I read about on this site...
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Old 09-08-2014, 04:42 PM   #27
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

I'm going to patch the floor, insulate and install marine grade plywood this next week. I pulled a window to have 16G Steel inserts made to replace some of the windows. I was thinking I could fasten them in place with a few pop rivets in the side pillars. The cost for 8 window inserts $360.00. If I do the math, online the raw materials for a single plate is about about $260.00 add in cutting, bending and shipping with $100.00. That seems like a fair price, what do you think?
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:24 PM   #28
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Is your cost for labor and materials?

A good shop should be able to bend up a simple metal pan on a finger brake, so it's got edges the same thickness as the original window.

I could probably do the first one in about 20 minutes: measure, shear, measure, bend. The remaining 7 would go faster. A 4x10 sheet of galv. 20 gauge metal costs about 60 bucks, and figure a shop rate of $100/hour.

So, a worst case about $260 for the labor, and $60 for materials - $320 for edge bent galvanized pan plugs for your windows. Drill and rivet in place.

edit: I forgot to ask, why 16 gauge? That seems extremely thick.

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve.c
I'm going to patch the floor, insulate and install marine grade plywood this next week. I pulled a window to have 16G Steel inserts made to replace some of the windows. I was thinking I could fasten them in place with a few pop rivets in the side pillars. The cost for 8 window inserts $360.00. If I do the math, online the raw materials for a single plate is about about $260.00 add in cutting, bending and shipping with $100.00. That seems like a fair price, what do you think?
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Old 09-08-2014, 08:14 PM   #29
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Yes, the $360.00 is all in worst case. If they can get them out of 2 sheets instead of 3, I could save a bit... I prefer it when that happens.

I went with 16 gauge as apparently the rest of the bus is out of it and the "old feller" making the parts said; "...they would be better out of the heavier material." He also said, "If your converting a school bus to a RV then you must care more about safety and less about gas mileage!" I would say add in "low carbon footprint, better for the environment, and a great family building project and he's got it right.
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Old 09-08-2014, 09:16 PM   #30
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Re: 2000 Thomas Saf-t Liner

Liking the bus! I have a '99 - 40 footer. The electrical box seems a nightmare, I had been taking out a switch here and there and removing the wires little by little. I bought new toggle switches for the on/off things I will have, but will keep the 3 way ones for things like the wipers and such. I am going to eliminate that whole mess eventually and it will be 1 bus bar for the power with a separate fuse panel to connect the other items I need, so that way I can seal that panel off and access it from inside.

Nice work on the windows!

Welcome to the neighborhood!!!

-Doc
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