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Old 05-27-2015, 05:05 PM   #21
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
PDBreske, I'm interested in your setup, and how you configured the seats and direct access from cab to box, I have seen a few that use the rubber semi accordion looking thingimabob connectors, for lack of a better word. I am concerned about heat loss, leak potentials and durability issues.

Beautifully clean dt466! I will have to try out the simple green power wash, do you have to cover and avoid certain areas with electrical connections, or greased areas or delicate rubber boots / covers?

I am planning on getting everything square and reinforced with the ceiling. The current box has a thin aluminum roof with U channel shaped galvanized steel cross member beams running the width of the box, every ~2 feet. I have considered fastening 2x4 cross member reinforcements 1.5" flat in between the galvanized steel U crossmember beams which also attach to the vertical 2x4's on the sides of the box. I would then put in 1.5" spray foam insulation on the ceiling then square it off with a thinner ply ~1/4" plywood. What was your ceiling design?
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Old 05-27-2015, 05:55 PM   #22
Join Date: Sep 2014
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Kubla, my plan for insulation is somewhat lopsided but intentional. On the left side of the box, I plan on running vertical 2x4's on edge, with 1.5" flush up against the side walls of the box truck with the 3.5" length protruding from the wall, which will also be drilled with holes to route the plumbing and electrical, as well as have 1.5" of spray closed cell foam insulation over the framing. The right side of the truck will have the 2x4 vertical framing run flat with the 3.5" side flat against the sides of the box wall, also filled in with ~1.5" closed cell foam insulation, then covered with 1/2" plywood. I would ideally like to get up to at least 2-2.5" of closed cell spray foam insulation on the 3.5" left side. This lopsided insulation could present an ideal seasonal configuration depending on the season and climate. In the winter in a cold climate, I would want to have the side with less insulation perpendicular to the greatest sun exposure, thus providing the most solar gain and thermal diffusion through that side of the insulation, with the thicker 3.5" side be the north facing wall, and would provide the most insulatin and least heat loss.

On the ceiling I would like to do something similar however adding a radiative barrier or paint on the roof. What do you think?
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:18 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by bzbussin View Post
Crazycal, does your engine have a sticker on top of the block that says the horsepower specs at 190? I have 4 stickers on the top of my block that says 250hp, will try and get some pics when I get back from vacation. What is the mechanical difference between these two engines, or is it all the turbo and fueling adjustment?

Bus is in storage right now. I think there was a sticker with different HP ratings and mine had a hole punched out where 190HP was. I think different injectors, timing, maybe turbo for higher HP.
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Old 05-27-2015, 09:33 PM   #24
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 668
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International
Engine: TE 444
Rated Cap: 12
if you have the crazy split radiator like I do, you have to watch upping the horsepower as the radiator is not big enough to handle the higher heat load
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:05 AM   #25
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Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Sadly the front engine 5.9 Cummins powered TC2000's had cooling systems 3 times the size of some of them split cooling systems found in front of the DT360 and the DT466.

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Old 05-30-2015, 11:59 AM   #26
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Will have to check out the radiator setup soon. Just got back from a road trip from Colorado to California, and ended up passing through death valley where I came across a nice Mercedes off road 4wd camper. I really like how the storage boxes are placed and designed, as well as the double pop out window wall like a Taco stand trailer.uploadfromtaptalk1433004844262.jpguploadfromtaptalk1433004954837.jpguploadfromtaptalk1433005120584.jpg
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #27
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Yesterday I picked up some recycled lumber 2x10's (thanks to my buddy Joey Pouches) I'll rip down to 2x4 size for the interior framing. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433005621711.jpg[/IMG]

Was having a hell of a time getting the nails out of the lumber without a cats paw, as the heads would pop right off, so I made use of this technique with a vice grip as leverage for the hammer. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433005732626.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 06-03-2015, 01:21 AM   #28
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
I got the split radiator up front, are there direct radiator swaps from other dt466 setups to remedy the problem down the road?

I made some progress today working on sealing up all of the edges and corners on the roof with flash mate, then will put a bead on all the inside edges to ensure I don't get leaks in the future that could compromise the structure and lead to rot. As a renter, I always seem to have bad luck with leaking ceilings, flooding, rust, and water damage so I will do my best to mitigate those issues by having quadruple redundancy with my sealing with flash mate on every inside and outside corner, as well as a nice coat of Henry white roof coat paint over the flash mate on every corner and seam, as well as paint all the walls and framing beams with killemz antifungal paint. I also want to ensure that water doesn't seep into the edges of the rivets in the walls, so I will treat each rivet with the same protocol as each corner seam.

I started this process by first cleaning the dirty walls. I found some purple butyl degreaser and sprayed the walls and put some elbow grease to a scrub brush then rinsed and wiped with a mop and bucket. It was a night and day difference, I am pleased with the results!. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433312227452.jpg[/IMG]. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433312287822.jpg[/IMG]. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433312314494.jpg[/IMG]I then took a Dremel with steel cup wirebrush and started sanding and cleaning up each rivet. After getting a nice clean rivet and surrounding area, I began painting them with primer. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433312200604.jpg[/IMG]. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433312448644.jpg[/IMG]

Hopefully by the end of this week, I'll have the roof and inside sealed with flashmate, and primed for Henry white rubberized roof paint.
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Old 06-03-2015, 07:53 AM   #29
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 1,810
Everything is cleaning up really nice but I think you are approaching your problems from the wrong side.

If you have or suspect you have leaks in your roof you need to stop the leaks on the outside before it ever gets inside.

Not that sealing everything tight on the inside isn't a bad idea. It is just that if you have a leak it will leak into the space between the inner and outer skin. It will soak the insulation and cause a terrible mess you won't know you have until long after you have a significant problem.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:46 AM   #30
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 14
Cowlitz, I most definitely agree that the outside seams are the first line of failure and will finish the outside first. Before I began on the inside, I started working on cleaning up all the outside corners and seams by dremeling out the old sealant and replacing with a nice fat bead of flashmate sealant. I will do this with all the rivets on the outside too. [IMG]uploadfromtaptalk1433342751357.jpg[/IMG]
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