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Old 06-03-2015, 10:56 AM   #31
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Engine: dt466
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I think the higher rated DT's have special pistons too.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzbussin View Post
I got the split radiator up front, are there direct radiator swaps from other dt466 setups to remedy the problem down the road?

I made some progress today working on sealing up all of the edges and corners on the roof with flash mate, then will put a bead on all the inside edges to ensure I don't get leaks in the future that could compromise the structure and lead to rot. As a renter, I always seem to have bad luck with leaking ceilings, flooding, rust, and water damage so I will do my best to mitigate those issues by having quadruple redundancy with my sealing with flash mate on every inside and outside corner, as well as a nice coat of Henry white roof coat paint over the flash mate on every corner and seam, as well as paint all the walls and framing beams with killemz antifungal paint. I also want to ensure that water doesn't seep into the edges of the rivets in the walls, so I will treat each rivet with the same protocol as each corner seam.

I started this process by first cleaning the dirty walls. I found some purple butyl degreaser and sprayed the walls and put some elbow grease to a scrub brush then rinsed and wiped with a mop and bucket. It was a night and day difference, I am pleased with the results!. [IMG]Attachment 7183[/IMG]. [IMG]Attachment 7184[/IMG]. [IMG]Attachment 7185[/IMG]I then took a Dremel with steel cup wirebrush and started sanding and cleaning up each rivet. After getting a nice clean rivet and surrounding area, I began painting them with primer. [IMG]Attachment 7182[/IMG]. [IMG]Attachment 7186[/IMG]

Hopefully by the end of this week, I'll have the roof and inside sealed with flashmate, and primed for Henry white rubberized roof paint.
That crud might be exhaust soot. I have some near the back of the bus.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:33 PM   #33
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Year: 1992
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You can make almost any larger radiator and inter cooler fit if your creative.

Front engine TC2000 buses have great cooling systems.

The inter cooler in your split system can be separated and used in a turbo Honda car.

I grabbed a few for future Honda projects. Even the first gen Dodge Cummins guys will buy them up. They fit great on the first gens that had no inter cooler.

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Old 06-05-2015, 06:19 PM   #34
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Coachwork: Bookmobile body by Farber
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Navistar DT466/Alison MT643
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Originally Posted by bzbussin View Post
PDBreske, I'm interested in your setup, and how you configured the seats and direct access from cab to box, I have seen a few that use the rubber semi accordion looking thingimabob connectors, for lack of a better word. I am concerned about heat loss, leak potentials and durability issues.

Beautifully clean dt466! I will have to try out the simple green power wash, do you have to cover and avoid certain areas with electrical connections, or greased areas or delicate rubber boots / covers?

I am planning on getting everything square and reinforced with the ceiling. The current box has a thin aluminum roof with U channel shaped galvanized steel cross member beams running the width of the box, every ~2 feet. I have considered fastening 2x4 cross member reinforcements 1.5" flat in between the galvanized steel U crossmember beams which also attach to the vertical 2x4's on the sides of the box. I would then put in 1.5" spray foam insulation on the ceiling then square it off with a thinner ply ~1/4" plywood. What was your ceiling design?
Sorry I missed this.

My bus is a former bookmobile. The cab and box are just like a school bus with no wall between, so I can't help with info about your sealing predicament.

When I washed my engine, I only avoided openings that lead directly to the engine, e.g. the air filter intake. Mine is a mechanical injector until, so there is little in the way of electronics under the hood (in fact, none that I can think of). The only grease I encountered was built up on various parts of the steering/suspension and I was eager to be rid of that, but I didn't hit any of the linkage boots directly with the power washer.

Your ceiling construction sounds similar to mine, but I have two layers of metal joists. The horizontal cross members are aluminum I-beams, with another layer of channel stock that is curved to raise the roof slightly. They work together to effectively triangulate the support for the roof, which is aluminum.

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Old 06-09-2015, 12:28 AM   #35
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PDBreske, Looks a bit more sturdy than my roof, but mine should do the trick nonetheless! Thanks for your insight into the simple greaning cleaning and your roof design. Will show you pics of the roof and what I'm working with framing wise shortly!
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Old 06-09-2015, 01:47 AM   #36
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Nat, do any of the busses they are scrapping have the bigger radiators? The split radiator is an issue I will have to solve eventually
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Old 06-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Kubla View Post
Nat, do any of the busses they are scrapping have the bigger radiators? The split radiator is an issue I will have to solve eventually
Yes, but they would all need a recore due to our climate rotting them out.

A recore for a rad that size is $1200 here.

Best bet would be finding one from a rust free zone.

Heater cores can also be mounted under the bus to help the rad dump heat.
Every heater core under the bus can dump 60 to 90,000 BTU a hour. Even one under the bus will make a massive improvement.

Nat
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