4 Curious Georges' 2001 Saf-T-Liner - Page 13

david.dgeorge07 · 11-07-2017, 11:18 AM

So my question is: is this worth the effort? I have read all the things about how you want to eliminate thermal bridging. So I'm planning to have spray foam applied and then I'm going to use luan for the inner skin of the ceiling. It seemed like it would be smart to attach these furring blocks onto the sides of the bus ribs so I can screw the luan into wood rather than steel. But it's a pretty big project and I've scheduled the foam only a few days from now. Am I really going to gain that much by screwing into these furring strips versus screwing into the steel of the bus given that I am planning on having a wooden ceiling?

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Twigg · 11-07-2017, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

So my question is: is this worth the effort?

Yes.

If you do any off-season camping you will appreciate the reduction in condensation ... even more so if you avoid open propane flames for heating.

If you only ever use the bus in the summer, you might not notice much difference, although the effort required to cool it will be lessened.

Truckinduc · 11-07-2017, 08:41 PM

Awesome build thread, I just read the entire thing. Where are you in Chattanooga? Im in the north Hixson area. I think I recognize the Greenway Farm dog park in one photo.

david.dgeorge07 · 11-07-2017, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truckinduc

Awesome build thread, I just read the entire thing. Where are you in Chattanooga? Im in the north Hixson area. I think I recognize the Greenway Farm dog park in one photo.

Thanks! I am in Ooltewah, Hunter Rd. Area. Good eye on Greenway Farms! Looks like you are getting started on a pretty cool build yourself!

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david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 09:04 AM

Working on framing around the windows. I must say working with wood is more fun than working with metal in a lot of ways. Do you guys see any problem with the way that I am planning to do this? I'm trying to decide if I want 2x2 top and bottom or 2 x 4 top and bottom.

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BlackJohn · 11-09-2017, 09:54 AM

I'm thinking you should frame the bottom of the wall before the windows. That way you end up with a wider top at the bottom of the window like a sill. That's what I did and used tyvek behind everything before insulating the wall. Seems like no drafts are coming in anywhere. At the top I used 1x3 horizontally but on the window upright I used barnboard that are about 3/4" thick so meet the 1x3 quite nicely.
I agree working with wood is satisfying but I also used a lot of metal studding where it wouldn't be seen. It's nice too and very easy to frame with when you use the right screws to assemble. Those are known as Kelly Screws and do not loosen in metal. I have seen people use drywall screws to assemble metal frames but not successfully. They loosen up and things get progressively loose.
In my build I tried to eliminate any tendency for things to come forward when braking hard, the old inertia thing. Everything is built and braced for that although you may not see it.

Your framing depends only on the finished look you want.

John

david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

I'm thinking you should frame the bottom of the wall before the windows. That way you end up with a wider top at the bottom of the window like a sill. That's what I did and used tyvek behind everything before insulating the wall. Seems like no drafts are coming in anywhere. At the top I used 1x3 horizontally but on the window upright I used barnboard that are about 3/4" thick so meet the 1x3 quite nicely.
I agree working with wood is satisfying but I also used a lot of metal studding where it wouldn't be seen. It's nice too and very easy to frame with when you use the right screws to assemble. Those are known as Kelly Screws and do not loosen in metal. I have seen people use drywall screws to assemble metal frames but not successfully. They loosen up and things get progressively loose.
In my build I tried to eliminate any tendency for things to come forward when braking hard, the old inertia thing. Everything is built and braced for that although you may not see it.

Your framing depends only on the finished look you want.

John

I am using self drilling metal screws for attaching all the wood to the metal. Hopefully that does not loosen over time So did you use the one by threes flat against the wall or standing wide from the wall? I'm definitely planning to create a lower sill underneath the windows as well. Next week I'm going to have two part closed cell foam applied which should do a good job of stopping moisture and drafts and things of that nature. A big part of my reasoning for doing this work right now is to create a nice lip aagainst which the foam can build up to and seal against.

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BlackJohn · 11-09-2017, 12:15 PM

The 1x3 I used run horizontally at the top of the window on the ceiling metal which I did not remove. You have a 2x4 in that position it seems which is fine. Mine will support curtain rods eventually.
Where your vertical 2x4's are I removed the factory screws and tapped those holes to 1/4-20. used stainless bolts then to hold my barnboards on with those triangle factory washers to look more original.
I found self-drilling screws ok in some places but prefer a pilot hole and then a screw or bolt depending on the application.I don't mind work but try to avoid working hard.

What kind of wood did you use for the ceiling furring pieces? Softwood might not be the best or longest lasting would be my concern in which the ceiling will droop then fall if those screw holes rot out in time.

John

david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 12:38 PM

Gotcha, that makes sense. Something I didn't mention: I used a router to create pockets in the back of the 2x4 to accommodate the window brackets. I know that some remove those entirely, but my 2x4 would not contact the window frame, and thus would not apply any pressure to them. It seemed pretty quick and easy to route out an area for them so that's what I did. Yeah I'm using soft wood. It feels very sturdy now and will get ensconced in 2 part foam, so it shouldn't rot from moisture anyway. Not saying your concern isn't valid, but that work is done and I'm hoping for the best based on the foam's protective properties.

david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 12:41 PM

Any thoughts on the relative merits or liabilities of these products for the ceiling?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE...-759/205669196

https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionP...4-x-8/50121135

Twigg · 11-09-2017, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Any thoughts on the relative merits or liabilities of these products for the ceiling?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE...-759/205669196

https://www.lowes.com/pd/RevolutionP...4-x-8/50121135

That beadboard is what I will likely use. I'd like a natural finish that can be stained though.

I could use a shaper to create my own, but that is a lot of work.

david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twigg

That beadboard is what I will likely use. I'd like a natural finish that can be stained though.

I could use a shaper to create my own, but that is a lot of work.

Thoughts on hdf vs plywood? The HDF is a lot easier to bend around the curves in the ceiling I think. I'm worried that it may sag though.

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david.dgeorge07 · 11-09-2017, 08:53 PM

I made some progress this evening on framing around the windows.

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CCurran88 · 11-10-2017, 02:30 PM

Ian Robinson's build (look for his you-tube channel, and then seek his ceiling panel installation video) shows how he set up a really nice jig for putting up luan on his roof without cracking it. He ran his lengthwise, with two sheets meeting in the middle of the bus, rather than horizontally (one side of the bus to the other), and finished up with a long strip down the middle to cover the seams where the two sheets met. The jig he created out of spare 2x4s was brilliant. I've seen two other converters' you-tube channels using the same jig and giving Ian credit.

david.dgeorge07 · 11-10-2017, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CCurran88

Ian Robinson's build (look for his you-tube channel, and then seek his ceiling panel installation video) shows how he set up a really nice jig for putting up luan on his roof without cracking it. He ran his lengthwise, with two sheets meeting in the middle of the bus, rather than horizontally (one side of the bus to the other), and finished up with a long strip down the middle to cover the seams where the two sheets met. The jig he created out of spare 2x4s was brilliant. I've seen two other converters' you-tube channels using the same jig and giving Ian credit.

Great tip! Thanks!

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