4 Curious Georges' 2001 Saf-T-Liner

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Are you looking at their blue inverters? I poked around and found that they have a line that is painted green which has the same components as-the blue ones but with fewer bells and whistles The one that I got does everything I need and more and was less expensive then the lower wattage unit in the blue series. They also make a much lower cost series that didn’t seem to do the things I needed it too.


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I'll look at them. I haven't yet.

It's critical that the charger section has the ability to bulk-charge flooded lead/acid batteries at 14.8 volts, even higher with temperature monitoring.

If it can't do that then the expensive Trojan batteries will never achieve full charge.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Twigg

A 2500W inverter is more than enough for any anticipated loads other than big AC units.

I'll probably go with the AIMS 2000W Inveter/Charger. That's more than enough power and cost is a factor. Smaller than 2kW and the charger part can't deliver the charge rate I want.

I guess if you want to use an induction stove and a microwave at the same time, you might need bigger but they get very expensive, very fast.

That unit provides 6000w surge capability for 20 seconds.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by o1marc

That unit provides 6000w surge capability for 20 seconds.

Yup. Helpful for AC compressor start-up

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by Twigg

I'll look at them. I haven't yet.



It's critical that the charger section has the ability to bulk-charge flooded lead/acid batteries at 14.8 volts, even higher with temperature monitoring.



If it can't do that then the expensive Trojan batteries will never achieve full charge.

These are the options on this one.



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[Twigg]

Looks good.

[david.dgeorge07]

Doesn’t look like a whole lot but today I finished enclosing the battery box and making it vapor proof plus adding an exterior vent. I also cleaned the entire bus and cleaned the entire garage. Things were getting a little ridiculous and it was hard to get anything at all done!


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[M1031A1]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

So your inverter is around 4000 W? I plan to put 15 to 1600 W on the inverter which seems like a reasonable load for 2500 W inverter. The inverter can produce up to 7000 W for30seconds. It’s built with solid-state technology and large capacitors. I’m running 30 amp service to my main electrical panel because my shore power will come through my inverter as well. It’s an automatic transfer switch with a 30 A breaker. So shore power will come through the inlet directly to the inverter/charger from there to my service panel that will supply 120 V to the bus.

What kind of an alternator are you running?


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I'll be running a 250 to 300 watt alternator independent of the 12v system the bus uses. It will be engine powered, but not dependent upon the rest of the system. IIRC it's a 6K unit. Right now it's buried in the trailer. The alternator will have a custom bracket for mounting, three or four batteries, and a separate conduit system for the A/C, refrigerator, computers, and lights.

When I get the finances together for the bracket and alternator the system will come together quickly with pics to follow.

M

[david.dgeorge07]

Ran 6/3 from the inverter to the panel and got 1 outlet wired up. Running AFCI and GFCI protection. What have you guys done for that?


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[01ThomasMVP]

Hey David, read most of your forum, the bus is lookin great. I have an 01 thomas MVP that looks very similar to yours. I am currently in the demolition stage and have ripped everything out except for the lower metal wall panels below the windows. I'm having trouble getting them out because they seem to be bent underneath the window frames and I can't get them out.

How did you remove those metal wall panels below the windows?

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by 01ThomasMVP

Hey David, read most of your forum, the bus is lookin great. I have an 01 thomas MVP that looks very similar to yours. I am currently in the demolition stage and have ripped everything out except for the lower metal wall panels below the windows. I'm having trouble getting them out because they seem to be bent underneath the window frames and I can't get them out.

How did you remove those metal wall panels below the windows?

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed!

In order to get those out you’ll have to use a cutting wheel on an angle grinder and run it along underneath the sill about half an inch below. Before you go crazy with it make sure you figure out where the edge of the underlying support is so you aren’t cutting that in addition to the thin sheet metal on the surface.


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[david.dgeorge07]

These look fun!


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[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

These look fun!


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Better yet, find those with twist lock so they don't unplug acccidentally.

John

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Better yet, find those with twist lock so they don't unplug acccidentally.

John

Well the twist locks cost about 3x's as much. In all the electric i've installed I have never seen a plug like that that was loose and easy to unplug. So the chance are slim to have that issue to justify the expense. If we used the best of everything in these builds we would all have $100k coaches.

[david.dgeorge07]

I just finished wiring these up. If it unplugs accidentally, something else will be broken too. They have big handles on the back for a reason.


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[Twigg]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I just finished wiring these up. If it unplugs accidentally, something else will be broken too. They have big handles on the back for a reason.


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If it does come apart (highly unlikely) then you can just plug it back in again

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I just finished wiring these up. If it unplugs accidentally, something else will be broken too. They have big handles on the back for a reason.


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[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Better yet, find those with twist lock so they don't unplug acccidentally.

John

I agree that the twist lock ones look nice, but there were so many different kinds and pricey too. These seemed very well made, standard, and only $15.


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[Rusty]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I agree that the twist lock ones look nice, but there were so many different kinds and pricey too. These seemed very well made, standard, and only $15.


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Coolest plugs are on ambulances and fire trucks- they self-eject the connection so they can mobilize quick. I couldn't find these at Lowes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x01TVi0y4hU

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Coolest plugs are on ambulances and fire trucks- they self-eject the connection so they can mobilize quick. I couldn't find these at Lowes.

They cost $300, I'll pass.

[1olfart]

Zip ties should stop any unwanted unplugging(-; Those little gems have save me lots of times.