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Old 03-27-2019, 10:22 AM   #1241
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Once I verify that this is watertight I'm going to cover all the fasteners and the margin of the glass with eternal bond tape for an added layer of protection and clean appearance. Then a crazy idea that I have additional is to make magnetic insulating covers that I can put over them when I want to block light and save HVAC.
Hi David. I find myself returning to your thread regularly for ideas. You are great at sharing your methods. Just curious since your skylights have been in place for a while now...how have they held up? leak at all? any cracks? anything you'd do different?

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Old 03-27-2019, 07:57 PM   #1242
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Hi David. I find myself returning to your thread regularly for ideas. You are great at sharing your methods. Just curious since your skylights have been in place for a while now...how have they held up? leak at all? any cracks? anything you'd do different?


Thanks! In hindsight I would have probably just used self drillers vs. nuts and bolts. Just because it would have been easier. Also I might have thought ahead to how I would frame up the inside and done that at the same time. Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didn’t notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried I’ll damage the lexan.

No cracks, no leaks. Nice sunlight. In the summer we often put insulation batts in them and in the winter they help heat the bus.
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:52 AM   #1243
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I also got all new brand new LED marker lights to go with my new paint job!
Hi David, did you get your marker lights from an online vendor? If so, mind sharing?

thx

Eric
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Old 04-29-2019, 11:06 AM   #1244
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Thanks! In hindsight I would have probably just used self drillers vs. nuts and bolts. Just because it would have been easier. Also I might have thought ahead to how I would frame up the inside and done that at the same time. Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didn’t notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried I’ll damage the lexan.

No cracks, no leaks. Nice sunlight. In the summer we often put insulation batts in them and in the winter they help heat the bus.
just a thought, how would a sliding cover work, like the ones in vehicles that have a skylight in them?
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:01 PM   #1245
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Hi David, did you get your marker lights from an online vendor? If so, mind sharing?



thx



Eric

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Partsam 14x Trailer Marker LED Light Double Bullseye 10 Diodes...
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:03 PM   #1246
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just a thought, how would a sliding cover work, like the ones in vehicles that have a skylight in them?


On top or inside? I have a decent cover solution using polyester batts that fit into the skylights. I would not be able to spare the headroom inside. Good idea though for those with more headroom.
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:06 PM   #1247
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On top or inside? I have a decent cover solution using polyester batts that fit into the skylights. I would not be able to spare the headroom inside. Good idea though for those with more headroom.
I was thinking inside - wouldn't use up more than an inch I don't think
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Old 05-01-2019, 02:40 PM   #1248
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What a great thread! I'm starting my bus (2005 Saf-T-Liner) in a week or so and I cannot wait to reference this! I literally just read all 125 pages of posts and learned a ton!



I did notice you never really did a 'final'/'finished product' post with pics etc. I'd love to see!


Thanks
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Old 05-14-2019, 12:49 PM   #1249
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You could make a little test area where you've already disturbed the butyl to see if there's any reaction. Butyl is a very old sealant and I'm sure people have painted over it before, although I'm no expert on the subject.

you may be able to seal it off with a good heavy coat of latex - then you can paint over it with oil paint
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:27 PM   #1250
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Also, one of my helpers got quite a bit of paint on them while painting and we didn’t notice til later. I have yet to seriously try to remove it, but I am worried I’ll damage the lexan.
Maybe try this to get the paint off Lexan? (found at Home Depot) The pics don't show it, but included is a white buffing compound for polishing metal AND plastics. It turns the buffing wheel black; IT turns black when it heats up to apply to the wheel. It is kinda like plastic. You run the wheel at high speed and rub this stuff on. When it starts to melt (happens quickly), stop, and start buffing. It takes a while to fully load the buffing wheel with the compound, and you keep having to stop and add more at first, but once the wheel is fully loaded, it works fast and polished my chrome and aluminum window frames to a mirror finish. I think I started using it to remove the paint on the rubber wheel-well flairouts and it worked. Either that or the "erasure wheel" used to remove the vinyl letters and reflective-tape goo; can't remember which I tried. Took a minute, though, so the rest of the job I will do later..



I'm worried the Lexan will scratch eventually (I never have clearance probs underneath, despite the low-rider bus I have, but I keep hitting trees!) and I think this MAY also remove the scratches.



I know I love my one skylight (where the e-hatch was), though it is not finished yet. I am thinking of another in the back, if I decide against a roof-rack (very likely)
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Old 05-22-2019, 11:44 PM   #1251
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remember if you completely remove the heater loop that goes from the back to the front in a rear engine bus without replacing it.. you will not have any heating or defrosting capabilities for the windshield or while on the road...

-Christopher
I know this is an old post, but I just came across it and just figured that out after in it just a little bit. Made the conscious decision to go ahead and take it out. I will have to heat and defrost electrically.

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Old 05-23-2019, 06:20 AM   #1252
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Heating and defrosting electrically is not a good decision but depends where you live and how much of each you will be needing. Best to rerun the lines back to the front of the bus and use that proven system.


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Old 05-23-2019, 07:41 AM   #1253
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What a great thread! I'm starting my bus (2005 Saf-T-Liner) in a week or so and I cannot wait to reference this! I literally just read all 125 pages of posts and learned a ton!



I did notice you never really did a 'final'/'finished product' post with pics etc. I'd love to see!


Thanks


Thanks! Yes I need to post finished shots but I keep feeling like I need to do just a couple more things first!
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:42 AM   #1254
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you may be able to seal it off with a good heavy coat of latex - then you can paint over it with oil paint


That ship sailed a while ago. I just painted it over with rustoleum and never looked back. I think it will be fine. I’ve come to love butyl tape.
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:43 AM   #1255
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Maybe try this to get the paint off Lexan? (found at Home Depot) The pics don't show it, but included is a white buffing compound for polishing metal AND plastics. It turns the buffing wheel black; IT turns black when it heats up to apply to the wheel. It is kinda like plastic. You run the wheel at high speed and rub this stuff on. When it starts to melt (happens quickly), stop, and start buffing. It takes a while to fully load the buffing wheel with the compound, and you keep having to stop and add more at first, but once the wheel is fully loaded, it works fast and polished my chrome and aluminum window frames to a mirror finish. I think I started using it to remove the paint on the rubber wheel-well flairouts and it worked. Either that or the "erasure wheel" used to remove the vinyl letters and reflective-tape goo; can't remember which I tried. Took a minute, though, so the rest of the job I will do later..



I'm worried the Lexan will scratch eventually (I never have clearance probs underneath, despite the low-rider bus I have, but I keep hitting trees!) and I think this MAY also remove the scratches.



I know I love my one skylight (where the e-hatch was), though it is not finished yet. I am thinking of another in the back, if I decide against a roof-rack (very likely)


Thanks! I may test this on a scrap first!
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:46 AM   #1256
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I know this is an old post, but I just came across it and just figured that out after in it just a little bit. Made the conscious decision to go ahead and take it out. I will have to heat and defrost electrically.



Mark Miner


Pick your poison. I found that there was little substitute for the massive BTU output of a coolant driven system when in cold conditions.

Most miserable driving I think I’ve ever had was on a long trip on that bus up north on the winter.

It took three days of work, but I plumbed under the bus to bring the dash heat back to life. Totally worth it.
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Old 05-23-2019, 08:18 AM   #1257
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Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07 View Post
Pick your poison. I found that there was little substitute for the massive BTU output of a coolant driven system when in cold conditions.

Most miserable driving I think I’ve ever had was on a long trip on that bus up north on the winter.

It took three days of work, but I plumbed under the bus to bring the dash heat back to life. Totally worth it.



**THIS**


it takes massive amounts of BTU to heat and defrost a big bus in the cold..

if you read the BTU output ratings on bus heaters.. most of them will out-heat your home furnace.. the door heater / Rioght windshield defrost alone in my carpenter is 85000 BTU... I then have a 35,000 BTU driver heater and a 30,000 BTU left WS defrost..



when its 0 out im not sweating in that bus... im not freezing either.. but when I had the reight side heater out to restore it, my left side heater alone didnt heat me nice n warm..


I'll also say if the bus was built with Air-Conditioning keep at least one of the systems for driving unless you like the hot seat in summer...
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Old 08-09-2019, 12:23 PM   #1258
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Coolest plugs are on ambulances and fire trucks- they self-eject the connection so they can mobilize quick. I couldn't find these at Lowes.

Auto-ejectors sound awesome but they don't work for very long. When I was a driver at my station I would always manually unplug the shore-power line first before getting into the truck. I pulled too many of them out of the wall of the truck room and had to write a letter to my Battalion Chief for damaged equipment! Keep It Simple!
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Old 02-10-2020, 12:13 AM   #1259
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Even after some initial missteps I feel confident in the work I've done with the coolant change. The documentation from PEAK's website (the writeup of the attributes and application) the Thomas manual for the bus, and finally getting the right filter. Flushing the system, running it up to temperature on garden hose water, flushing it again and flushing it with distilled water, changing the (finally correct) filter, and finally filling and bleeding with the Final Charge. Thanks for all the guidance along the way @cadillackid and @LectricLance!
How did you get a Thomas manual?
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Old 02-28-2020, 01:49 AM   #1260
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As I read your post on Idea's for my future future build. On the Stove grate rattle problem.Did you think or try Urethane baking mat's? I wood think cut to size you would even have to take them out for cooking since that's what their for... Just thinking JOE
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