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Old 02-06-2015, 03:36 PM   #31
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
Coast to coast Crown http://flic.kr/p/r32MFG
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Old 02-07-2015, 08:34 AM   #32
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Oregon
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Hermiston is okay for parts, but Pendleton is the main source of scrap yards and is the best spot in that part of north eastern Oregon to fix a bus. There are a lot of diesel mechanics there. Otherwise your next best bet is going to be Baker City and that is too far if you're worried that your bus won't make it. Wish I could have seen your bus before you left Portland
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Old 02-07-2015, 06:23 PM   #33
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Summit, Oregon
Posts: 117
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: DD 6-71N
Alright , your on your way.
My two buzzers with lights on the dash are oil pressure on the left and air pressure on the right. If the gauges say they are alright I would't be too concerned. But I would find out why the buzzer went off. I would ask over on the Crowncoachjunkies forum, They know it all I would bet.
I'm outside Redding, Ca on my way back to Oregon.
Good luck and I wouldn't worry too much, These things have a reputation for being reliable and dependable.
Jerry
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Old 02-07-2015, 09:20 PM   #34
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
I'm in riggins Idaho, stepped off the main trail to visit family.
Patience (the bus) is eating up the hills, not to much for engine braking on these big hills. How high can I let it rev up while going downhill, I've been keeping it below 2500 generally 2300rpms. Stabbing at the brakes seems to keep it down well enough.
My toad is doing well, tranny and diff are barely warm to the touch. I can't see it and pretty much drive like it's not there without any issues. I can see its whip antenna out the Bach window.
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Old 02-07-2015, 11:39 PM   #35
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Cummins engine of that vintage do not liked to be run down hill anything over 2100 RPM, bad things will happen rods out the side of the block and so on,that pancake 220 is a very good engine but very hard to get some of the parts for,jake brakes can be put on and those would help quite a bit in the mountain country. On the other hand running on the flats or on an incline you can run those up to 22/2300 rpm as long as you have a load against the engine, but running down hill with no load can be disasterous.
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Old 02-08-2015, 10:54 AM   #36
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Summit, Oregon
Posts: 117
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: DD 6-71N
I would advise a camera in the back window. We got a cheapo from harbor freight and a cheap dvd player from wal-mart that has an input for the camera. You are going into some very populated territory and having no way to tell what is happening back there is not good.
Jerry
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Old 02-10-2015, 01:34 AM   #37
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
A back up cam would be nice, thanks for the heads up on max rpms. She has been purring along at 60 sometimes 65. Shifting rough since I've been in Utah and thinking I'll bring the idle down a click, I adjusted it up because it would die when I came to a stop in nutral but after I blew her nose out on the hills of Idaho the idle has risen and running better than ever.
I spent a few hours crawling around looking for air leaks, many found and all fixed. The range select hose to the tranny had a vintage brass wedge type crush fitting that got replaced.
I'm getting around 5mpg in the mountains and 7mpg average between Portland Oregon and Evanston Wyoming. I hope it gets better in the flats.
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Old 02-11-2015, 11:41 AM   #38
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Bump the idle back to where it was at now that you've run it and cleared it out,those engines don't like to idle too much they will load up, you went thru the housing at the rear of the pump for the idle, when you have a condition such as what you have there is another way to cure that but I doubt you'll need to adjust it now thats its been run, if you could cruse at a lower RPM you mileage would come up a little, I would think 6 to 7 but you have to back off a little 1900 to 2000 would help.
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Old 02-14-2015, 05:45 PM   #39
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
Adjusted the idle while waiting for a 10 mile long train to creep across the only way thru rural ne Colorado, running better.
I made it to Newton Iowa, plugged into an outlet behind a truck stop. Patience would not start this morning, she turns over sluggishly but not bad. It grumbled while turning over and I didn't try to start it again. usually the block heater does the trick after 2 hrs but today its 10degrees out and getting colder. I picked up some firewood from a craigslist add in Omaha and good thing I did because the Woodstove is doing its job well keeping me comfortable.
I'm going down to Wallmart in the toad to get a propane heater for warming up the engine.
Haven't tried sliding the bbq under the pan yet, but who knows what's to come.
Can't seem to upload photos so here is a link to the flickr page.
https://flickr.com/photos/10205785@N...57646933091607
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Old 02-15-2015, 04:27 PM   #40
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Portland, OR.
Posts: 40
Year: 1972
Coachwork: Homemade
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Cummins NHH 220, E-F10spd
Day 3 in Newton iowa! It's been 5 degrees all night and 7 the night before with a daily high of under 20. The bus got too cold to start and my toad had a dead battery that the charger seemed to have no effect on. I built a fort around my pickups engine and got a pile of briquettes roaring and dumped them on a cookie sheet and slid it under the engine, tarp over the front of the truck battery charger on the battery turned on to 50 amp jumpstart. I left it like this for half an hour, dumping more blazing briquetts on the pile every 10 minuits or so.
It worked, and on my way to the farm store for some heat source that would plug into one of my propane tanks. Many btu's later, the blacktop under the bus is piping hot. I got a propane heat tube blower thing and blasted the blacktop under the bus for 30 minuits. I built a tent with thick vinyl tarps around the engine to keep the heat in mind you. The bus took about an hour to feel warm to the touch and the block heater finally caught up!
The battery charger had been doing quite well in its new location, I'm charging at the starter where the battery Leads come together instead of directly charging each battery (8D x2)
I unplugged everything and hit the button, I sh!t you knot it started in .2 seconds to a smooth idle. It's never done that before, and it beats the ether rag on a string trick.
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