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Old 04-19-2007, 01:38 PM   #11
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Batteries get their name from the fact that they are a battery of many cells. In the case of lead acid a single cell is 2 volts. The difference between a pair of 6 volts in series and a 12 volt is just the fact that we make an external connection between two cases instead of an internal connection within a single case. In either case you have what is essentially just 6 cells at 2 volts a piece. I think so many of us are running the 6 volts because of price more than anything. Dollar for dollar a 6 volt golf cart battery is the cheapest way to go per amp hour. That doesn't make them the best solution though. They require more space, require maintenance unless they are AGMs (ok...even those require some mainenance), etc. The best solution is the one that works for you.

For what it's worth I've been eyeballing up so new AGMs we got in at work. They are a Group 27 with a capacity of 100 amp hours making them about the same as a regular wet cell Group 27 marine deep cycle. We have priced them at a point between the wet cells and the Optima deep cycles as an alternative. I'm half considering trying them for myself....
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Old 04-28-2007, 06:01 PM   #12
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I have no idea what you are trying to say. But Watts = Volts * Amps so take all of your outlet devices and add the Amps together. Then multiply that by 120 Volts and that is how much power (watts) you will need for the inverter.

W = 120V * SUM(Amps@120V)

The inverter is not 100% efficient so take that times the efficiency of you inverter and divide that by 12 Volts and that is how much current (amps) that your inverter will be drawing from the batteries/alt/gen at full load.

Amps@12V = W / 12 * %Eff

Take all of the Amp-Hours of you batteries and add them up. Then divide that by the current (amps) that you inverter will be drawing and that is how long (hours) that you can run before you batteries die.

Hours = SUM(Amp-Hours) / Amps@12V
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Old 05-01-2007, 03:41 PM   #13
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I don't think you would want to run them in series unless you have to step up say from 6V -> 12V or 12V to 24V.

Wiring them up in parallel allows you to have them all connected to one source and possibly the big advantage is that each battery can provide current instead of the current passing through each battery.

If you connect them all in series and you are drawing a lot of current I think you could easily burn up plate type batteries. If they are connected in parallel the current is divided up between the batteries so it is not as rough on the plates.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:58 PM   #14
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I think he bought 6v golf cart batteries. I believe he would need to run 2 batteries in series to get 12volts, then run the two pairs in parallel to double the amps/capacity. I'm not an expert...but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:14 PM   #15
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Yep that would work and doing that would double the amount of current you could run with just one battery and also run twice as long too.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:56 PM   #16
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Just to make sure you know what you should be doing, you need to think as those 6v batteries as half a battery for your purposes. You will take those (4) 6volt batteries and make (2) 12 volt batteries by connecting them in (2) series pairs. To make one 12v battery, connect the + to the - of the other. if you use a multimeter(if you dont have one, stop right there and go buy one now) and measure the volts between the unused + and - , you will read 12 volts now. Repeat the above steps with the other 2 batteries. Now you have (2) 12 volt batteries (effectively). Now to connect those together 12 volt sources together, wire them in parallel, connect the unused - to the unused - and the unused + to the unused +. now you have an even larger 12 volt battery. PLEASE check this with a multimeter before you hook them to ANYTHING including the ground on your vehicle. Your equipment and maybe your eyes depend on it. Here is a good link to some reading on setting up battery systems. I highly recommend you read and understand what you are doing before messing with this much current.
http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html
I am also curious about your musical equipment. Everything I have ever worked with was 120 volt. Are you sure about the 220? If so, you will have to spend a lot more on an inverter to run 220. Usually you have to have 2 rather expensive inverters stacked or I have heard about converters that raise the voltage. Do you have the equipment already? If so what kinda plug do they have(number of prongs, shape . . ). Good luck.
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Old 07-14-2007, 05:20 PM   #17
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Re: '82 Chevy Carpenter Recording Studio Conversion

Just run it as you mentioned with the switch. In a perfect world you wouldn't be switching just to avoid shock loads to the alternator, but in your case you have a giant alternator and a giant battery bank. You should be fine. If the batteries are deeply discharged I guess I would recommend cranking on both instead of starting on 1 and then switching (that shock load thing), but I really htink you'll be just fine. The biggest thing is that those switches can spark (you'll never see it, but the sparks will be there) so make sure the switch is in a well ventilated area. If it's mounted in the battery compartment I think 5 minutes with the door open should be sufficient.
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Old 08-07-2007, 03:27 AM   #18
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Re: '82 Chevy Carpenter Recording Studio Conversion

i agree with the above post. you should be fine. i have seen a few ambulances that have a switch to connect/disconnect the 2nd battery. You can flip the switch when the truck is running and nothing bad happens. however.....we had an old firetruck with your switch 1,2, 1and2, off.......if the switch on that ol girl gets turned off while the engine is running the old timers tell me that she has a voltage spike (no batteries connected to the alternator) and any lights that were left on get burned out in a milisecond. I would suggest not doing that!
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