92 Thomas International Navistar

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by BurlKing

we were hampered down this week by the weather warming up and making a mess out of everything and then followed by a freeze and snow. We also purchased a snowmobile this week. So much fun to ride on our down time from working on the bus. 95 Arctic Cat 550 cougar - got it for $325 and we didn't even have to fix it.

First of the rear framing going in. the curves meeting up made this a little difficult and then part of the back comes in at a 10 degree angle. The flat back buses would've been easier to work with here.
We used great foam behind the 2X4s around the door since there was a small crevice behind them and where some of the 2x2s meet at the sides. 5 clearance lights will be going in back here. 3 up top in the middle, and one on each side up top as well.

more framing

then some insulation going in.


Next on the list is to order weatherstripping for the rear door. The only drafts coming in the bus are around that door. If anyone has a better idea for weatherstripping it let me know. I checked menards and home depot for weatherstripping and they have a very low supply in store, I even checked the garage door stuff. Seems like all the good weatherstripping is online.

so far this is what im going with - https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-X527...PVWGK1R61EJRT5

You're gonna have that thing so airtight, you'll have to put a window down so your ears don't pop when you shut a door!

[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by milkmania

You're gonna have that thing so airtight, you'll have to put a window down so your ears don't pop when you shut a door!

haha. thats the plan!

[BurlKing]

We finished framing the bus with the exception of above the driver.

The view as if looking over your left shoulder in the drivers seat. far right you can see the drivers window.

insulation in, and first sheet of plywood up.

[BurlKing]

update for today:

[roach711]

I don't know how I missed seeing your build but it's looking awesome so far.

[Tango]

Rock on guys...lookin' good!

[TAOLIK]

Originally Posted by roach711

I don't know how I missed seeing your build but it's looking awesome so far.

I also don't know how I missed your build but it's looking really great! I just spent the past two hours blowing off the superbowl and reading/skimming/really enjoying the pictures of your build. The restoration, roof raise/skinning, the fire stove, the hearth - you're doing an awesome job with it all! And thanks to you the past two hours flew by and I get off work in an hour and am pumped to work on my bus!

I'm in awe that you have these professional level skills as a 25(ish) year old.. I wish I had your confidence, gusto, and competence. But I'll just settle with my alcohol induced self-assurance. Everythings gonna be okay, I say.

Keep up the good work! I look forward to more progress and pix!

[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by roach711

I don't know how I missed seeing your build but it's looking awesome so far.

thanks! there will be plenty of pictures to follow in the future.

Originally Posted by Tango

Rock on guys...lookin' good!

always good to hear from you tango, thank you.

Originally Posted by TAOLIK

I also don't know how I missed your build but it's looking really great! I just spent the past two hours blowing off the superbowl and reading/skimming/really enjoying the pictures of your build. The restoration, roof raise/skinning, the fire stove, the hearth - you're doing an awesome job with it all! And thanks to you the past two hours flew by and I get off work in an hour and am pumped to work on my bus!

I'm in awe that you have these professional level skills as a 25(ish) year old.. I wish I had your confidence, gusto, and competence. But I'll just settle with my alcohol induced self-assurance. Everythings gonna be okay, I say.

Keep up the good work! I look forward to more progress and pix!

I blew the Superbowl off with bus related stuff too haha.
"everythings gonna be okay" is the mindset you need to have when converting a bus anyways. lol


the next week or two will consist of marking down where our electrical lines will go such as, outlets, switches, and lights as well as getting approximately two more bags of insulation to finish the bus other than the ceiling and laying dimensions on the floor of room and structures to see how it all flows.

[BurlKing]

started making the dash today, and the weather was great to work in. here you can see the dash in plain view. First took off the long arm that went from the door to the driver and then the attachment that latches it shut. I also finally fixed the fuse box flap (next to the glove-box on the right) that turned out not to be broken just positioned wrong.

base for the finish wood, and trim.

the top piece is on, a REALLY nice piece of aromatic cedar from Rockler. then sanded it as smooth as glass. We stlll need to add the trim on the front. I also tested my knuckles around the steering wheel so there is enough room. there will be the control console that sits on top of the heater and meets up with the front dash, creating a L-shaped dash.

showing some of the really nice grain on this, wish more of reds and slight purples stood out here but wont until its finished.

[cadillackid]

neat lookin dash.. remember though school bus windshields love to dump condensation on anythinfg around them.. id make sure that wood is really protected well so it doesnt get rotted out...

-Christopher

[lucasd]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

neat lookin dash.. remember though school bus windshields love to dump condensation on anythinfg around them.. id make sure that wood is really protected well so it doesnt get rotted out...

-Christopher

Ooh, yeah. I'd say paint that sucker with clear sealant as if you were expecting it to be outside or in a sauna.


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[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

neat lookin dash.. remember though school bus windshields love to dump condensation on anythinfg around them.. id make sure that wood is really protected well so it doesnt get rotted out...

-Christopher

will do! still deciding which route to fasten it down as well without going through the top with screws

Originally Posted by lucasd

Ooh, yeah. I'd say paint that sucker with clear sealant as if you were expecting it to be outside or in a sauna.


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haha yeah we're going to use clear sealant, just not sure which actual product to use yet. if you know of anything let me know.

[cadillackid]

are you putting it on top of the existing defrosters and leaving space for them to work or are you going to incorporate new defroster vents into the new dash?
if you are setting it back an inch or so from the window so the OEN defrosters are clear then it might be far enough away from the glass to not condense too much.
-Christopher

[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by cadillackid

are you putting it on top of the existing defrosters and leaving space for them to work or are you going to incorporate new defroster vents into the new dash?
if you are setting it back an inch or so from the window so the OEN defrosters are clear then it might be far enough away from the glass to not condense too much.
-Christopher

it'll be pretty much as you see in the last pic, set back a few inches from the glass so those holes have room to breathe. gives me a little cubby to set stuff behind the wood piece and then about a 7" wide dash to set stuff on. the wood piece sits about half on the defroster tunnel (but not covering the holes) and then the rest sits entirely on the wood base built off of it.

[BurlKing]

so that way there is plenty of room to set **** behind like this:

[cadillackid]

thats a great way to do it and you shouldnt have much issue with condensation. i like my carpenter bus because it has the nice platforms already built to sit stuff on.. the bluebird doesnt..

but a nice wood dash will look better.. if you drill holes in it for big starbucks cups then it gets triple thumbs up from me!!



-Christopher

[ourmefa]

Originally Posted by BurlKing

will do! still deciding which route to fasten it down as well without going through the top with screws

This may sound crazy, but you could use magnets if you cannot get in from under to a fix fasteners.

I have worked for some time for an Escape Game company building hidden compartments and trap doors. We use magnets all the time for things that need access but need to be secure from people opening.

The most common method we use is to insert small pins in the cover (dash piece), then drill holes that match for alignment of the piece. Once you have that, then determine several locations on the piece to be attached for the magnets. Drill holes using a forstner bit and then epoxy the magnet into the hole. This can then either be attached to the steel in the dash, or if you are lacking that, get a small plate of steel and attach. You may need to do a little chiseling to create a recess for the plate and backset the magnet a little when drilling.

Typically with a 7/8" x 3/8" magnet (cost about $3 a piece at the link to the left), spaced every 16-18 inches, you will get a really good hold. If you want to further secure it, you could use an electromagnet, which you can get up to 200 lbs of pull for a pretty reasonable price. That might be a little much though lol.

Originally Posted by BurlKing

haha yeah we're going to use clear sealant, just not sure which actual product to use yet. if you know of anything let me know.

I highly recommend using a two part epoxy for something that is going to be exposed to UV all the time and potential moisture. Coat the top, sides and part of the bottom, but leave a strip on the bottom uncoated as you want the wood to breath over that long of a span and with all the temp changes. Make sure it is a good marine epoxy though that is specifically made for UV exposure. This is a really good product that I have used with good success.

[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by ourmefa

This may sound crazy, but you could use magnets if you cannot get in from under to a fix fasteners.

I have worked for some time for an Escape Game company building hidden compartments and trap doors. We use magnets all the time for things that need access but need to be secure from people opening.


I highly recommend using a two part epoxy for something that is going to be exposed to UV all the time and potential moisture. Coat the top, sides and part of the bottom, but leave a strip on the bottom uncoated as you want the wood to breath over that long of a span and with all the temp changes. Make sure it is a good marine epoxy though that is specifically made for UV exposure. This is a really good product that I have used with good success.

honestly thank you so much for taking your time to help us out like that. its all very helpful advice at a much needed time!

funny you mention the trap door or hidden compartment, we built some into our wheel wells. When we framed up our wheel wells and boxed them in we seen there was wasted space over the curves. we decided to make 2 hidden storage areas in there that will be hidden in the cabinets base in the kitchen which sit part-way over the wheel well. I'm seriously considering purchasing some magnets for just that specific task now, so awesome and cant thank you enough.
here you can see them:
the other half of the wheel well on the bottom of the picture has a cut-in for the shower pan to sit in. this will be completed when we actually buy the shower pan.

[TheHex]

Originally Posted by BurlKing

will do! still deciding which route to fasten it down as well without going through the top with screws



haha yeah we're going to use clear sealant, just not sure which actual product to use yet. if you know of anything let me know.

I'm a carpenter by trade and I can tell you by far the best clear coat to protect wood from moisture is oil based spar varnish if you can find it it's meant for marine use


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[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by TheHex

I'm a carpenter by trade and I can tell you by far the best clear coat to protect wood from moisture is oil based spar varnish if you can find it it's meant for marine use


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you guys are awesome. beats reading through my book for an hour trying to figure it out.