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Old 03-30-2015, 02:03 PM   #141
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Did you have the bus suspension blocked up so you weren't leaning the entire chassis to one side? It seems to me like a half inch of drop might be more than expected given the rigid nature of the slide.

edit:

Awesome job, by the way. I'm proud to see you advancing the impression of school bus chassis coaches considerably.

No, I didn't block suspension and could feel bus leaning toward slide out a bit. In my case it didn't matter.

1/2" drop is not much considering 1000+ lb load on 2 pieces 2.5x2.5 square tubes at 48" distance. This was a necessary information for me but I couldn't find it anywhere.

Actually thinking about 1000+ lb I might be wrong. It is very hard to calculate because inside edge is parked on bus floor but water drums are as close to outside wall as I could only put them.

Anyways the whole purpose of this test was to make sure slide out will be functional when I add insulation put table/ chairs and couch inside.... I didn't count on people because nobody will be inside slide out while extending it.
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:24 PM   #142
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
I'd like to suggest you avoid the contactor style interface for wiring in your slide and use a flexible cable track, kind of like this stuff:

1M 25 x 57 mm Plastic Cable Towline Tracks Flexible Cable for CNC Router Machine | eBay

I always see that sort of track in the CNC machines I use, so I assume it would last with many openings and closings.
I don't like using contacts either.... Contacts get dust, corrosion etc...

Another idea is to use retractable reel something like vacuum cleaners use. The reel can be hidden behind wall....

Probably the cheapest and easiest way is to have a short cord attached to the slide out edge and a receptacle secured to the bus wall. When slide out is in it will disconnect the cord and when slide out is out you just have to plug it in...
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:25 PM   #143
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 671
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Maybe a coiled extension cord:

Flexy® Heavy Duty Coiled Extension Cord 10 Gauge 20 Amps - Extends From 14 In. To 20 Ft. - - Amazon.com


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I don't like using contacts either.... Contacts get dust, corrosion etc...

Another idea is to use retractable reel something like vacuum cleaners use. The reel can be hidden behind wall....

Probably the cheapest and easiest way is to have a short cord attached to the slide out edge and a receptacle secured to the bus wall. When slide out is in it will disconnect the cord and when slide out is out you just have to plug it in...
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Old 03-30-2015, 07:02 PM   #144
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 422
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: Freightshaker
Engine: 5.9 cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 6 passenger 2 ATV's
Great build, you've got to be pleased with it so far.

I see you checking for load/weight for strength, function, etc. I don't get my project 'til June and would like to know.... Does the sheet metal floor/cross members have any strength without the plywood? Are the cross members just tin? Building a toy hauler for ATV's [2, 900lb machines] and trying to gain any inches I can without a roof raise. The shortest guy is 5'-10", everyone else 6'-1" to 6'-5". If the plywood has to go back in for strength , so be it. "Dog nose Thomas 6 foot inside"
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:15 PM   #145
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by REDD View Post
Great build, you've got to be pleased with it so far.

I see you checking for load/weight for strength, function, etc. I don't get my project 'til June and would like to know.... Does the sheet metal floor/cross members have any strength without the plywood? Are the cross members just tin? Building a toy hauler for ATV's [2, 900lb machines] and trying to gain any inches I can without a roof raise. The shortest guy is 5'-10", everyone else 6'-1" to 6'-5". If the plywood has to go back in for strength , so be it. "Dog nose Thomas 6 foot inside"
The floor is solid without plywood for people but you can feel how it flexes, cross members are different. Some are thin, some have extra steel angle. You can add extra cross members from the bottom if you really need to. 3/4" plywood is just much easier to make floor solid enough for "toys".

Roof raising is not a huge problem, but time consuming. In my case we plan to stay in RV for 3-6 month at the time. This is why I am adding slide outs.

If you want to use your rig occasionally, you can get away without roof raising.
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Old 03-31-2015, 10:26 AM   #146
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 258
1/2" doesn't sound like what you should expect from 1000lbs - isn't that 3" steel tubing? My deflection calculator says like 1/16". I'm wondering if it's just play from the bearings? You must have some small gap so they roll smoothly. To get a 1/2" drop at the end of a 3' lever you'd only need, what, a sixteenth of play at the inside end, right?

My small (only holds a couch) 6' slide-out in my current camper dips like 1" fully extended. They compensate kind of the way you described. The top flange is structural and pushes on the outside wall along the top. That makes contact first. The slide mechanism keeps going and pushes the bottom out until it compensates for the sag. It's a worm-gear driven system so once it's out it's locked, at least as far as the strength of the gear teeth can handle...
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:49 AM   #147
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Awesome job!

That's all I got for you
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:00 PM   #148
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by taskswap View Post
1/2" doesn't sound like what you should expect from 1000lbs - isn't that 3" steel tubing? My deflection calculator says like 1/16". I'm wondering if it's just play from the bearings? You must have some small gap so they roll smoothly. To get a 1/2" drop at the end of a 3' lever you'd only need, what, a sixteenth of play at the inside end, right?

My small (only holds a couch) 6' slide-out in my current camper dips like 1" fully extended. They compensate kind of the way you described. The top flange is structural and pushes on the outside wall along the top. That makes contact first. The slide mechanism keeps going and pushes the bottom out until it compensates for the sag. It's a worm-gear driven system so once it's out it's locked, at least as far as the strength of the gear teeth can handle...
The inner tubing is 2.5". It rolls out 48" The wall thickness is 1/4". I wanted to use 2" inner tube and 2.5 outer (2.5" fits under the floor without cutting the floor) but after trying to calculate drop by using some online calculators I decided to overkill and use 3" and 2.5" tubing.

Here you can see I had to cut the floor to fit outer tubes. They actually stick out about 1/2":




Also the guy who sold me aluminum had a bunch of 2.5" and 3" tubing for much cheaper (about 1/4 price) than metal supermarkets around.

The most important criteria for me is tubes must flex without bending.... .

In my case I will use aluminum flange made of 2"x2" angle and 4" flat riveted together. It can hold the whole bus if needed....

I am the person who can build indestructible tank but if I build an airplane it might never take off ..... , so it becomes a tank with wings.....
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:56 PM   #149
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Join Date: Jul 2014
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Year: 1998
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Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Well, you could meet halfway and build a ekranoplan.
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I am the person who can build indestructible tank but if I build an airplane it might never take off ..... , so it becomes a tank with wings.....
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Old 03-31-2015, 06:10 PM   #150
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 258
Well, they have a rule with homebuilt airplanes: "If you want to know if you should put something in your plane, throw it in the air. If it falls back down, don't put it in the plane."

I'm kinda looking forward to the _somewhat_ greater weight capacity of a Skoolie.
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