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Old 04-21-2015, 12:27 AM   #161
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 194
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quick update

Last few days I was working on my kitchen slide out box. It is 2'x13'x6'.

As the previous box this box frame I build using 2"x2" aluminum angles riveted together with 1/4" solid aluminum rivets. I use my own build hydraulic compression tool and it works great.

When I need to make a bunch of the same pieces I usually make a template. This extra step pays for itself by saving time and making all pieces exactly the same. I needed a bunch of angles with a bunch of holes drilled, so I made a steel template for drilling:




Here is an air drier I build another day. I need it for plasma cutter to have dry air. I used an old laying around refrigerant receiver. I cut a hole on top and welded a piece of 2" steel pipe. The inlet pipe goes to the bottom inside. I used a silica gel crystals which is used as kitty litter. This silica gel crystals are a great absorbent and help to dry air. The whole 4 pound bag was $ 6 making it wery affordable.

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Old 04-21-2015, 08:47 AM   #162
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Dude I love this thread.

You and I share so many of the same ideas.

Don't forget to make sure the air cools before entering the dryer. This is important to condense the moisture. Most will be able to be drained off before it reaches the dryer.

I have to make the same set up soon so I can use my new plasma.

Nat
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:30 PM   #163
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,287
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
That's a nice looking drier. I confess: I entirely forgot about feeding my plasma cutter dry air. I've been using an electric compressor with 60 gallon tank oriented vertically; the inlet from the pump and the outlet to the air line are both on the top. I drain the tank.. sometimes.. ;) Oh, I have a little water separator on the outlet as well, and it occasionally gets drained too.

Last time I took steel for recycling I had a receiver/dryer they wouldn't accept; they said it had to be cut open first. So back at home I cut off the end with the hoses and still have the cylinder kicking around the shop. Now I know what I should do with it!

How full do you fill the kitty litter? Does the air need to actually travel through the drying media, or would that just cause it to pick up dust?
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Old 04-21-2015, 02:20 PM   #164
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 194
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
That's a nice looking drier. I confess: I entirely forgot about feeding my plasma cutter dry air. I've been using an electric compressor with 60 gallon tank oriented vertically; the inlet from the pump and the outlet to the air line are both on the top. I drain the tank.. sometimes.. ;) Oh, I have a little water separator on the outlet as well, and it occasionally gets drained too.

Last time I took steel for recycling I had a receiver/dryer they wouldn't accept; they said it had to be cut open first. So back at home I cut off the end with the hoses and still have the cylinder kicking around the shop. Now I know what I should do with it!

How full do you fill the kitty litter? Does the air need to actually travel through the drying media, or would that just cause it to pick up dust?
Firs of all your plasma cutter needs dry air. It doesn't matter how big your tank is. I have huge over 100 gal receiver and I drain it (sometimes ;) )

Now some details:

1. I put plastic wire sponge (used for cleaning pots and pans) on the bottom where air enters the dryer. This keep silica inside when you disconnect your hose.

2. I filled it right up with silica.

3. I put the same plastic sponge in the top 2" pipe near air exit for the same reason to keep silica inside.

All air goes through the media, which is the desiccant.

The dust.... you do get some dust at the beginning and I just let it blow out for a bit. I keep standard filter/water separator (useless thing for removing water) on my plasma cutter and it will catch the dust.

BTW silica can be reused many times. All I need is to open the dryer (this is why I used 2" pipe and cap) pull sponge out, shake silica out, put into old cast fry pan and put it into oven for some time to dry.
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/98-bluebird-tc2000-conversion-2-feet-roof-raise-3-slideouts-9728.html
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Old 05-28-2015, 04:53 PM   #165
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 124
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Chassis: -
Engine: -
Hey Vlad,

how is it goin'?

Any updates on your dream machine?

Cheers,

thjakits
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:45 PM   #166
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 194
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by thjakits View Post
Hey Vlad,

how is it goin'?

Any updates on your dream machine?

Cheers,

thjakits
I currently work on kitchen slide out. It is basically as same as living room just a bit smaller. It is 22" deep vs 48" living room. It has the same slide out system, the same frame.

I don't know if it is worth to gust "fill up" my conversion. Some threads are getting so long it is impossible to read them through.
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:51 PM   #167
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 194
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Fighting rust.... any ideas?????

I need to remove a bunch of rust from bus frame.

I tried some "magic fluids" and they work only in their inventors imagination....

Does somebody have REAL experience and REAL success to remove heavy rust from vehicle frame?

I do understand I will have to remove flaking rust and I have needle scaler for this.

There is no way i can submerge the whole frame in acid and use galvanic effect to remove rust.

Please share some info. This is my REAL PITA......
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:29 PM   #168
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 124
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...great!

22 + 48 = fairly tight squeeze if they are both in. Did you plan to have the bus "functional" with all slides in? ....or just assume, that the slides will go out anyway anywhere?

Cheers,

thjakits

PS: Sorry, can't really help you with the chassis rust. THe only thing I ever ran across that probably was a similar heavy rust is a fishing vessel. The guys there used some seriously bad sh** (needed to wear masks). Applied with a brush after "picking the rust" (basically spend quality time with a heavy welding hammer chipping rust).
After that stuff went on, everything went BLACK. Finished off with some specific ship paint - good for 1/2-3/4 year and the whole fun started over....
Surface was still rough, but at least protected for a while....

Unless there is some new Super rust-remover-changer out there, I think your best option is to go section by section - though it will be serious work......
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:04 PM   #169
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 206
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Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
Ospho works well. Turns the rust black, prepares the surface for priming.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:24 AM   #170
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 194
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by thjakits View Post
...great!

22 + 48 = fairly tight squeeze if they are both in. Did you plan to have the bus "functional" with all slides in? ....or just assume, that the slides will go out anyway anywhere?

Cheers,

thjakits
You only drive hours but stay days.... This is why I decided to have such a large (deep) living room area.

Also as I said before I want everyone sit in their seat with proper seat belt while we drive. I don't want chase people while I drive. You never know what can happen next second on the road. Everyone will look into window, or play their tablet, or watch tv, or whatever... If somebody is tired, we will stop in safe place and take a rest.

BTW It will take a few seconds to deploy at least kitchen side and have much more room to move around. I will use hydraulic cylinders and electric solenoids to control slide outs.
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