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Old 05-01-2016, 11:59 PM   #231
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 49
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: P30
Engine: Chev 350 gas-replacement
Vlad--I just read your entire thread--your build is truly awe-inspiring! I look forward to seeing more of your bus when you can work on it again.
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:33 AM   #232
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
My bus originally had a large compartment under floor for spare tire and some other things. Since I covered under floor space I had to find another spot for spare tire. I decided to hang spare tire right behind front bumper. I found semi cargo winch and used it to lift the tire up:



Also I used 3" channel , 2 angles and a bunch of bolts:







Here is a hole for extension to turn ratchet mechanism:



This is a bottom plate that is bolted to the spare tire rim:







Whole thing together except wheel itself:




I do have 2 safety chains which are bolted to frame and hold tire from the bottom, just in case if strap or winch fail.

I think I found optimal place to keep spare tire on the bus. It is accessible, easy to check/inspect, doesn't steal useful space under the floor. Also the way this spare tire is located (between front bumper and front axle) it creates extra barrier if front collision happen(hope it won't be needed, but nobody knows what can happen on the road...)

I will try to take a picture with spare tire on and post it....
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:59 AM   #233
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Arizona via Baton Rouge
Posts: 640
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
Excellent idea using the cargo winch. I like it. May have to borrow that idea.
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:10 PM   #234
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 123
Coachwork: -
Chassis: -
Engine: -
Cool

Hello Vlad!!

I see you are BACK!! GREAT!

Looking at your front suspension - there is only 2 leaves/side holding the steering axle - no less!
It should be a major comfort-improvement if you can do the same to the rear axle - IF you can remove a few load springs, but torque-twist could become a problem.
Any intentions to install torque arms back there?

Cheers,

thjakits
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:04 PM   #235
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by thjakits View Post
Hello Vlad!!

I see you are BACK!! GREAT!

Looking at your front suspension - there is only 2 leaves/side holding the steering axle - no less!
It should be a major comfort-improvement if you can do the same to the rear axle - IF you can remove a few load springs, but torque-twist could become a problem.
Any intentions to install torque arms back there?

Cheers,

thjakits
Air bags are just so much better you can't even compare them to leafs.

The first and the main reason I added front bags was my ground clearance. I build 2' high storage under the floor, so my bus started to look like low rider Just later I realized how comfy bis rides with bags.....

When it comes to back springs I want to take them out completely because there is absolutely no room to add air bags. I saw a semi rear suspension at one of truck grave yards. It had 2 lower control arms attached to the frame at the front only. The 2 air bags were on the back. The only one thing will make installation a bit complicated is cross arm. The cross arm (like track bar on jeeps) is attached to the frame at one end and the other one is attached to rear end above differential. I will hire a professional welder to weld on large steel ear to differential.

I will try to find some pics or video how it all setup and works, very easy and straight forward.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:30 PM   #236
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 123
Coachwork: -
Chassis: -
Engine: -
Cool

...if the frame is "standard size" you might be able to swap in a complete Truck rear suspension.....though there might be problem with the diff-housing.
With the engine in the rear - I think the truck diff would have to go upside down....

Maybe you still have some connections "back home" - a complete rear salvage of a crashed bus: Volvo/Scania/MAN with a ECO-Split-16-transmission, rear axle and air-suspension!! Check it out!
That stuff was awesome 28 years ago - today everything is computer shifted - this package shouldn't cost much really!!

thjakits
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Old 05-02-2016, 10:23 PM   #237
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
When I looked at one of the semi air ride rear suspensions it looked like almost direct fit with minor modifications the only problem is cross link. But on other hand getting rid of rear springs will require rear end removal anyway. I will open the diff weld the piece of still a call it done.

Having air bags will allow me to control road clearance which is a great feature considering bus wheel base.

Once I almost because local monument when I was getting out from shopping mall. The exit didn't look so bad but but I sraped my newly built hitch.
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Old 05-02-2016, 11:28 PM   #238
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Here are some pictures of spare tire:

















You can't see the tire unless you almost lay down like I did



This is the view from bumper level, front axle is much lower

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Old 05-05-2016, 08:06 PM   #239
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Sonoma County, CA
Posts: 25
Beautiful build so far! look forward to seeing the rest of the slide outs and what you do with the interior!
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Old 05-15-2016, 08:12 PM   #240
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Lately I had couple of projects going on. Some info from this projects might be useful for some folks.

After I discovered water condensation in engine oil on my way from coast to coast I was wondering how to prevent this in the future.

First I want to add Frantz bypass oil filters using TP.

Second I will modify crankcase ventilation system. Instead of just just tube going down I will install oil trap with filter and route it into air filter, just like newer engines, but this will wait for some time.

One of the benefits of using TP bypass oil filters is their ability to absorb and keep water away from oil.

I was trying to get more info on how to connect bypass filters correctly but found almost nothing. There is a ton of info how to plumb 5.9 Cummins but 8.3 Cummins is not so common engine...


I had a small oil leak from engine oil cooler area, not even a leak but a bunch of dust build up there, so because my exhaust manifold was off there was a good chance to remove oil cooler fix the leak and see how oil system is plumbed.

Here are 2 plugs on oil cooler cover circled red and yellow. Cummins manual says this plugs are for checking oil filter performance, but it doesn't says which one is before filter and which one is after.

Now I know 100% bottom one (yellow circle) is before oil filter and top one (red circle) is after oil filter.



Here is another picture showing top circle is oil connection for turbo oil supply line (always after oil filter)




Here is another picture from the back:



And another one:



And one more:

BTW blue line is original Cummins oil bypass filter section drainage. It starts in the middle of the filter (next picture) and goes trough steel tube all the way to oil drain section which drains directly to oil pan(green area).



Original bypass circuit starts here (blue circle):



So, I ended up with something like this:

Red is oil valve after main oil filter for taking oil samples for oil analysis(just to make it clean and painless).

Yellow is oil before main oil filter goes to bypass oil filter.

Green return oil from bypass oil filter drains to oil pan. I drilled and tapped in green area(next picture)



Here I drilled and tapped 1/8" NPT hole for return oil line from bypass oil filter. This was possible because I had the cover off otherwise I would use drain plug on the side of the oil pan.

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