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Old 05-23-2016, 02:31 AM   #251
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: shreveport, la
Posts: 100
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Physically installing the air bags in a way that works is the hard part. Ride height system should be comparatively easy.

You could do full mechanical from all 4 corners to fancy electronic stuff to manual gauges like you mentioned.

If I were building it, (and I might!) I would start with a panel controlling each bag independently.

An air pressure gauge, and momentary toggle switch to inflate/deflate the bag, and a ride height linkage gauge, to indicate the actual height of the bag.

It would be pretty useful, straightforward to operate, and entertaining to watch the ride height gauges when stopping, starting, and turning.

Eventually some sort of computer thing could control it I suppose too.
The computer thing you would be referring too is Accuair. I've built bagged show trucks for 5 years haha. Tons of experience in air ride

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Old 05-23-2016, 07:07 AM   #252
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 191
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Physically installing the air bags in a way that works is the hard part. Ride height system should be comparatively easy.

You could do full mechanical from all 4 corners to fancy electronic stuff to manual gauges like you mentioned.

If I were building it, (and I might!) I would start with a panel controlling each bag independently.

An air pressure gauge, and momentary toggle switch to inflate/deflate the bag, and a ride height linkage gauge, to indicate the actual height of the bag.

It would be pretty useful, straightforward to operate, and entertaining to watch the ride height gauges when stopping, starting, and turning.

Eventually some sort of computer thing could control it I suppose too.
Exactly, start with independent air line to each bag 4 gauges and inflate/deflate valves then add the rest of controls as needed.

All independent bags will also help to level the bus at parking, it is easier to push valves than crank jacks....
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Old 05-23-2016, 10:21 AM   #253
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 191
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
My rent time in storage is over. I had to move the bus into my driveway. I connected 50' hose and pressure gauges to see the boost pressure. At idle there is no pressure, actually vacuum, at 2000 rpm and going the pressure is just 5-7 psi and max I coud see about 15 psi at 3000 rpm and going uphill. The numbers seems to be low.

I finally fixed the tac . I saw in one of the threads info about how tac works of alternator, but couldn't find spare wire anywhere near alternator. Because my alternator was off I had a good chance to look closer. I found one broken wire (white with a black stripe) but couldn't trace it all the way to speedo. I took a chance and touched it to one of the 3 ac terminals (befote rectifier ), to my surprise tac started to move. Now I can monitor engine rpm.

I will be away for next 2 weeks but will keep digging into boost pressure when I am back.

Does somebody have the same boost numbers? More? Less? Please let me know.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:25 AM   #254
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 655
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Those boost numbers sound about right for a conservative boost configuration. The turbo application as it originally was specified was more about controlling emissions and fuel economy than performance.

Adding more fuel will increase your pressure and EGT. Beyond that, a different A/R ratio would be required.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
My rent time in storage is over. I had to move the bus into my driveway. I connected 50' hose and pressure gauges to see the boost pressure. At idle there is no pressure, actually vacuum, at 2000 rpm and going the pressure is just 5-7 psi and max I coud see about 15 psi at 3000 rpm and going uphill. The numbers seems to be low.

I finally fixed the tac . I saw in one of the threads info about how tac works of alternator, but couldn't find spare wire anywhere near alternator. Because my alternator was off I had a good chance to look closer. I found one broken wire (white with a black stripe) but couldn't trace it all the way to speedo. I took a chance and touched it to one of the 3 ac terminals (befote rectifier ), to my surprise tac started to move. Now I can monitor engine rpm.

I will be away for next 2 weeks but will keep digging into boost pressure when I am back.

Does somebody have the same boost numbers? More? Less? Please let me know.
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Old 05-23-2016, 11:47 AM   #255
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 191
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Those boost numbers sound about right for a conservative boost configuration. The turbo application as it originally was specified was more about controlling emissions and fuel economy than performance.

Adding more fuel will increase your pressure and EGT. Beyond that, a different A/R ratio would be required.
It just feels like turbo is very lazy untill you rev the engine up to 3k.

I used to have 98.5 Ram 5.9L it was spooling toorbo right from idle.

I will still go over everything including intercooler and check for air leaks. I found 1 boot had hole in it.

I asked my wife to follow me and observe the smoke (great husband ) she said it puffs clouds of smoke when I start going and during shifts. I know I will have to add more fuel to get more boost but I don't want my bus smoke like train....

Now I know there is no exhaust restrictions, next air leaks, next different fuel pin. I will go as far as turbo upgrade, but I will get my magic numbers
I am not looking for a big numbers... somevere 300-320 hp will make me happy.
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:12 PM   #256
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 655
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Do you have an EGT yet? That would prove very useful on high rpm hill climbs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
It just feels like turbo is very lazy untill you rev the engine up to 3k.

I used to have 98.5 Ram 5.9L it was spooling toorbo right from idle.

I will still go over everything including intercooler and check for air leaks. I found 1 boot had hole in it.

I asked my wife to follow me and observe the smoke (great husband ) she said it puffs clouds of smoke when I start going and during shifts. I know I will have to add more fuel to get more boost but I don't want my bus smoke like train....

Now I know there is no exhaust restrictions, next air leaks, next different fuel pin. I will go as far as turbo upgrade, but I will get my magic numbers
I am not looking for a big numbers... somevere 300-320 hp will make me happy.
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Old 05-23-2016, 04:17 PM   #257
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 191
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Do you have an EGT yet? That would prove very useful on high rpm hill climbs.
Not yet, this is what holding me back from updating fuel pin. I was completely blind without tac and egt. You can easily burn your modified engine.

The problem with egt is the distance of 40 feet.....
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Old 05-25-2016, 08:28 PM   #258
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 123
Coachwork: -
Chassis: -
Engine: -
is your engine - mechanically controlled or already a electronic one? (Boost, Fuel injection)

thjakits
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:35 AM   #259
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 446
Vlad,
I started re-reading your build again before my boss walked in (oops, better get to work) and had a question: Considering the extensive about of fabrication you did adding underbody storage, the roof raise, body bracing, etc would you consider buying a coach bus and using that as your platform if you did it again? Just curious since the coaches are unibody construction with the full underbody compartments, already have good headroom, etc. Would starting with a coach have saved you any time, money or hassle? Either way I love your build, very inspirational!
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:59 PM   #260
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 191
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
The engine is fully mechanical, no electronics. The only electronic thing I can see is throttle position sensor which is used by transmission.
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