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Old 12-14-2014, 10:46 PM   #31
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Re: 98 Bluebird TC2000 Conversion:2 Feet Roof raise 3 Slideo

Good call --- for whatever reason, most of the fiberglass insulation I have seen on buses over the years has been scarey bad. Damp, moldy & nasty. As long as the heat doesn't get too high, the foam should hold up much better. Is it closed cell?
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Old 12-15-2014, 04:22 AM   #32
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Re: 98 Bluebird TC2000 Conversion:2 Feet Roof raise 3 Slideo

It looks like I made a very stupid mistake.

I decided to fill steel posts with foam to add R value and to avoid condensation. I drilled some 1/4" holes and sprayed Great Stuff foam inside.

It looks like foam got hard only outside and very close to hole. The rest of the foam just went to the bottom of the posts and stays liquid there.

Now thinking about what happened and why I think I know the answer. This foam needs air and water to harden. In closed space it just seals itself and stays liquid just like it was inside the can.

I ordered some pour 2 part poly foam to do it right this time. Now I will need to drill more holes and deal with some left over mess....

Oh well we learn everyday something new....
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Old 12-15-2014, 04:48 AM   #33
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Re: 98 Bluebird TC2000 Conversion:2 Feet Roof raise 3 Slideo

That's good to know!
Keep up the good work.
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Old 12-15-2014, 01:57 PM   #34
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Re: 98 Bluebird TC2000 Conversion:2 Feet Roof raise 3 Slideo

My experience has been that foam in certain vehicle body locations isn't actually a good thing, spray foam or otherwise. It can trap moisture and promote rust formation - for instance where rivets or spot welds join parts together, there may be less corrosion protection and the combination of foam and moisture can really motivate the rust.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
It looks like I made a very stupid mistake.

I decided to fill steel posts with foam to add R value and to avoid condensation. I drilled some 1/4" holes and sprayed Great Stuff foam inside.

It looks like foam got hard only outside and very close to hole. The rest of the foam just went to the bottom of the posts and stays liquid there.

Now thinking about what happened and why I think I know the answer. This foam needs air and water to harden. In closed space it just seals itself and stays liquid just like it was inside the can.

I ordered some pour 2 part poly foam to do it right this time. Now I will need to drill more holes and deal with some left over mess....

Oh well we learn everyday something new....
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Old 12-15-2014, 03:04 PM   #35
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Re: 98 Bluebird TC2000 Conversion:2 Feet Roof raise 3 Slideo

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb
My experience has been that foam in certain vehicle body locations isn't actually a good thing, spray foam or otherwise. It can trap moisture and promote rust formation - for instance where rivets or spot welds join parts together, there may be less corrosion protection and the combination of foam and moisture can really motivate the rust.
This is why I want to seal metal cavities with closed cell poly foam. If you keep them opened and air get there because of temperature difference and high heat transfer properties of metal water will condense and create rust....

As long as cavities in metal structures are sealed from "fresh" air from inside or from outside rust won't be forming. The problem with this kinda "sealing" is because cavity is empty it will create pressure or vacuum when temperature changes. It is easier to fill it up with something like closed sell foam and forget about it....
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Old 12-23-2014, 01:42 AM   #36
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Interior roof framing

Because I raised roof 24" I have enough room to work with. I have 98" from metal floor to the bottom of roof ribs. I saw how others trying to use plywood and other materials for ceiling and what challenges they have because of curved roof. I decided to make flat ceiling so, I dropped a few inches. I made wood trusses from 2"x2" and attached them to the roof ribs. Here are few pics:


A bit closer:


The other side:


There is still a little curved part of the roof about 5". I will just use crown moldings to cover it.

I will insulate the steel roof and ceiling itself. I will have enough room to run ducts, wires, pipes etc. Also I can monitor temperature in the "attic" and can ventilate it if needed.
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Old 12-23-2014, 11:50 AM   #37
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looks good
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
My experience has been that foam in certain vehicle body locations isn't actually a good thing, spray foam or otherwise. It can trap moisture and promote rust formation - for instance where rivets or spot welds join parts together, there may be less corrosion protection and the combination of foam and moisture can really motivate the rust.
I am just now doing the great stuff foam as we speak. I finished up filling the cavities two days ago. I got around this problem two ways. First by "layering" the foam. I'd take two cans and run the length of the whole side. Then walk back and do it again. this gave the foam some time to mix in with the surrounding air. However, if I did it again, I would wait longer between layers. One thing that I found helped was to take a round file or other long slim cylindrical stabby tool, and poke deep thin holes down into the foam to allow air to drop down there. i could easily refill the holes if i felt it necessary. But after a few days, it seems to be curing, but i'm going to poke more slimmer deeper holes this holiday to try and gauge weather it's dry at the bottom or not... I got pretty good results with this, but waiting a day for it to cure each time you poke it can take time.
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nachowarrior View Post
I am just now doing the great stuff foam as we speak. I finished up filling the cavities two days ago. I got around this problem two ways. First by "layering" the foam. I'd take two cans and run the length of the whole side. Then walk back and do it again. this gave the foam some time to mix in with the surrounding air. However, if I did it again, I would wait longer between layers. One thing that I found helped was to take a round file or other long slim cylindrical stabby tool, and poke deep thin holes down into the foam to allow air to drop down there. i could easily refill the holes if i felt it necessary. But after a few days, it seems to be curing, but i'm going to poke more slimmer deeper holes this holiday to try and gauge weather it's dry at the bottom or not... I got pretty good results with this, but waiting a day for it to cure each time you poke it can take time.
Great Stuff foam uses moisture from air to cure. I used a spray bottle to wet surface before spraying foam into cavity.

You will be surprised how this foam seals itself and stays liquid almost forever. You are right there is no fast way to fill cavities. Small layers and water spraying worked for me....

Lesson learned if you have a chance to fill some space with foam do it before you cover this space enough so it becomes a cavity... plan you project ahead and save yourself some money and hassle

I even bought some liquid 2 part foam and it works OK. It doesn't need any air/water to cure, but what a hassle to push this expanding mess into a drilled hole
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Old 12-23-2014, 02:22 PM   #40
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Interesting idea for the rafters! How much headroom did you lose?Now you'll have plenty of space to run the utilities, insulate, build in some overhead storage, etc.
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