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Old 12-27-2014, 09:58 AM   #51
Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil View Post
Looks good, how will slide work?manual,crank,electric or hydraulic?
I vote hamster powered.
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9883 - 7.3L 4x4 Shuttle Bus Toyhauler conversion
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:43 PM   #52
Skoolie
 
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Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
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Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil View Post
Looks good, how will slide work?manual,crank,electric or hydraulic?
I am thinking about using 1.5" hydraulic cylinders to push/pull the slide out steel frame. I am not sure yet how many cylinders per slide out to use. The bottom steel frame is very heavy duty all welded, so I might get away with just one cylinder per slide out in the middle.

I wanted to finish building bottom steel frame first but weather is thinking different
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:11 AM   #53
Skoolie
 
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Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Slide out frame

Here is a small update. I keep building living room slide out frame.

The outside wall frame is done:


The other side:


The same frame is up:


The inside "wall" frame. It is actually just a big opening... I added 2 temp cross brackets to keep it square:
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Old 12-29-2014, 12:20 AM   #54
Skoolie
 
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Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Rivet tool DIY

I use solid aluminum rivets to attach frame members together. I used air chisel and a heavy steel piece:


But after 300 rivets I started thinking about how to make my life easier.... Air chisel works well but it is time consuming and because of strong vibrations I have to clamp everything like crazy.

Today I went to Princess Auto (Canadian HF)and bought few bits and pieces: 2 ton mini hydraulic ram, manual hydraulic pump. After I built a heavy "C" frame from 2 layers of 1/2" steel. Here is what I got after couple of hours:






This tool squeezes 1/4" rivets just like nothing with a few pump strokes. Now what used to take minutes now takes seconds.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:18 AM   #55
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once again necessity is the mother of invention. You're gonna have a nice build when this is done, I can already tell.
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Old 12-30-2014, 02:44 AM   #56
Skoolie
 
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Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
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Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headinthetrees View Post
once again necessity is the mother of invention. You're gonna have a nice build when this is done, I can already tell.
Thanks...;) Saving money on RV is a good motivator to start skoolie conversion, but it is not enough for most of us here... we love to reinvent the wheel.....

BTW I checked eBay for hydraulic rivet press tools and was shocked buy price tag $600 and up. The tool I built cost me just under 100 CAD+ 2 hours and it works perfectly.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:40 PM   #57
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tools

A man after my own heart. One can never have enough tools. Only addition
to the rivet tool is an air powered pump with a foot pedal so you can have
your hands free to position tool and rivets. Harbor freight makes an air powered pump on a long ram for an engine hoist maybe you could re-purpose the pump unit and save the pumping action for better items like
wrenching and building. You've got a great build going with high quality workmanship, keep up the good work.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:43 AM   #58
Site Team
 
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So how come you're not just welding the aluminum frame?
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:41 PM   #59
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
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Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
So how come you're not just welding the aluminum frame?
I was thinking about welding but aluminium welding is tricky. This are just few things to consider when welding aluminium:


1. Welded aluminium is much weaker near the welds unless heat treated.

2. Tig aluminium welding requires major parts cleaning.

3. Aluminium needs raised seam. In my case because I attach aluminium panels from outside of the box frame I will need to grind seam down and this is a bad idea when it comes to aluminium.

Also when I build the frame I use 1 revet at each corner/ "T", so everything is still "flexible". Then I make sure everything is square and straight, then I add extra rivets.

Using hydraulic rivet tool I made makes riveting is not very time consuming.

If I decided to use steel for a box frame I would definitely weld it all.
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Old 01-02-2015, 02:44 PM   #60
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 192
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop View Post
A man after my own heart. One can never have enough tools. Only addition
to the rivet tool is an air powered pump with a foot pedal so you can have
your hands free to position tool and rivets. Harbor freight makes an air powered pump on a long ram for an engine hoist maybe you could re-purpose the pump unit and save the pumping action for better items like
wrenching and building. You've got a great build going with high quality workmanship, keep up the good work.
I use air/hydraulic pump since day 2 (day 1 made me thinking about it) I started using this hydraulic tool. It saves hours and hours of time and elbow grease....
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