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01-03-2015, 09:20 AM
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#61
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Snowflake, Arizona
Posts: 343
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American Rear Engine
Engine: C-8.3-300 Cummins MD3060
Rated Cap: 40 Prisoners
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Did you buy the bus in U.S. or Canada? Have you driven it yourself? What
is the RPM of the engine at 100kph? Is sixth gear enabled on the transmission or is it only using 5 speeds? Curious minds want to know.
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01-03-2015, 12:40 PM
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#62
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dragonpop
Did you buy the bus in U.S. or Canada? Have you driven it yourself? What
is the RPM of the engine at 100kph? Is sixth gear enabled on the transmission or is it only using 5 speeds? Curious minds want to know.
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I bought the bus in Canada.
I couldn't drive it myself because I didn't have air brake endorsement, so I hired somebody and just followed the bus.
I wanted to drive behind just in case something started leaking oil coolant etc I could see. It did happen.... One of the hoses that goes to cabin heater burst and we lost lots of coolant. It happened near the river and we had enough water to add.
The bus has funny cluster. The same gauges show different parameters. I don't like this idea and will replace them with convenient gauges.
Unfortunately RPM gauge didn't work..... therefore I have no idea what RPM were at 100k. The same about 6 gear. If I were a drive I could count.....
I know about Allison locking 6 gear on school buses. In worst case scenario I will build Arduino controller to shift into 6 gear. Arduino controller will take control over original unit at certain conditions. For me this is a bit too early to consider....
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01-03-2015, 01:53 PM
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#63
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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If your tranny is a 4th gen Allison 5 speed, it can indeed be re-programmed to engage the 6th gear (another OD). It will be worth the effort if you spend much time on fairly flat highways in the added mpg. Some shops require a release before they will do the work as the added speed apparently puts the unit above the speed rating on the standard issue tires or some such. Having the unit re-designated as an RV rather than a bus may make up the difference but the terms vary by state here in the US. No idea what they might want up your way. Good luck with it mate.
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01-03-2015, 02:16 PM
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#64
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
If your tranny is a 4th gen Allison 5 speed, it can indeed be re-programmed to engage the 6th gear (another OD). It will be worth the effort if you spend much time on fairly flat highways in the added mpg. Some shops require a release before they will do the work as the added speed apparently puts the unit above the speed rating on the standard issue tires or some such. Having the unit re-designated as an RV rather than a bus may make up the difference but the terms vary by state here in the US. No idea what they might want up your way. Good luck with it mate.
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I will definitely try to go conventional way via dealer reprogramming but if it doesn't work I will go arduino. I made torque converter lock for my ram using arduino and love it.
Sky is the limit....
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01-03-2015, 05:21 PM
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#65
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Roger doing what works. And having full lockup makes downhills a lot less nerve-racking as well as saving on brake pads/shoes.
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01-03-2015, 05:30 PM
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#66
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Roger doing what works. And having full lockup makes downhills a lot less nerve-racking as well as saving on brake pads/shoes.
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When I followed the bus I noticed the driver hardly ever used brakes (by stop lights) even on very steep down hills. The bus easily reached 110-115k on highway but as i mentioned before the RPM unknown.
Btw who is Roger?
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01-03-2015, 08:05 PM
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#67
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Wilco....Roger Wilco.
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01-03-2015, 08:52 PM
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#68
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,231
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
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And out. HA, HA. Ah Tango, what are we going to do with this younger generation?
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01-05-2015, 06:36 AM
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#69
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: southwest lowsyana
Posts: 542
Year: 1988
Coachwork: ward
Chassis: international
Engine: dt360a
Rated Cap: 65
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fire at Will!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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01-06-2015, 01:49 AM
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#70
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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The biggest slide out frame is done(living room dining area). The frame looks very solid and square. Now I start covering it up. I will use 0.051" (a bit thinner than 1/16") aluminum sheets. This time I will use #10 stainless screws.
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01-06-2015, 09:33 AM
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#71
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Can't wait to see that puppy in action. Great work Vlad!
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01-06-2015, 03:05 PM
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#72
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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Need a picture, stat!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad
The biggest slide out frame is done(living room dining area). The frame looks very solid and square. Now I start covering it up. I will use 0.051" (a bit thinner than 1/16") aluminum sheets. This time I will use #10 stainless screws.
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01-06-2015, 07:33 PM
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#73
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 37
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE
Engine: Cummins 8.3
Rated Cap: 90
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Vlad,
Don't know what kind of plans you have for hydraulics on your bus, but if you aren't already planning a hydraulics system for something else, one could make a pretty good case for something like this for your 3 slideouts: 24 Inch 1250 lb Linear Actuator
At .31 inch/second, the extend/retract would take about 77 seconds, so maybe a little slow, but you'd save the weight and expense of a hydraulics reservoir, pump, and valves, and they'd never leak. Control is a simple switch. They also have the advantage(or disadvantage, I guess) of being locked in place unless powered(lead screw).
Your conversion is looking awesome, by the way. A testament to your hard work. Looking forward to good pictures of your slide hardware. Thanks a bunch for the information about all the fasteners, I'm buying stainless pop rivets tomorrow on your advice.
JDecker
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01-07-2015, 03:46 AM
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#74
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Slide out frame
Here are some frame parts:
This is frame assembled:
This is a flange that will be attached over sheeting to seal bus wall when box is in closed position:
The other view of the flange:
Flange from top:
I made flange from 4" flat 1/8" aluminium and 2"x2" angle riveted together.
Sheeting is ready to be attached:
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01-07-2015, 04:00 AM
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#75
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDecker
Vlad,
Don't know what kind of plans you have for hydraulics on your bus, but if you aren't already planning a hydraulics system for something else, one could make a pretty good case for something like this for your 3 slideouts: 24 Inch 1250 lb Linear Actuator
At .31 inch/second, the extend/retract would take about 77 seconds, so maybe a little slow, but you'd save the weight and expense of a hydraulics reservoir, pump, and valves, and they'd never leak. Control is a simple switch. They also have the advantage(or disadvantage, I guess) of being locked in place unless powered(lead screw).
Your conversion is looking awesome, by the way. A testament to your hard work. Looking forward to good pictures of your slide hardware. Thanks a bunch for the information about all the fasteners, I'm buying stainless pop rivets tomorrow on your advice.
JDecker
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I need 48" cylinder/actuator for living room slideout. At this point I have no idea how much power I need to push slide outs. I want to build box and the moving parts first then I will test how hard to push it in/out.
Right now the weather is making me stay inside and work on box instead of working on the bus.
There are some 1.5" hydraulic cylinders. They are cheap, light, powerful. The bus actually have hydraulic pump that turns cooling fan but I have no idea about pressure. If somebody knows the pressure at cooling pump please let us know.
Update:
Here is a complete Hydraulic Fan Drive System explained with all details:
http://www.centralstatesbus.com/2003...s/a3hydfan.pdf
It looks like I will have enough pressure to use for slideouts.
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01-07-2015, 09:46 AM
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#76
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I would think your bus would also have a basic engine driven hydraulic pump for steering. If so, many such "big rig" type steering units take from a thousand to 1500 pounds of pressure. Very likely Ross power steering, many buses are. If so, plenty of pressure there to tap into.
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01-07-2015, 11:06 AM
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#77
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
I would think your bus would also have a basic engine driven hydraulic pump for steering. If so, many such "big rig" type steering units take from a thousand to 1500 pounds of pressure. Very likely Ross power steering, many buses are. If so, plenty of pressure there to tap into.
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This bus has a large hydraulic pump that provides enough pressure and flow for cooling system and steering system. This 2 systems are complicated but well documented to find point where I can cut in.
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01-07-2015, 09:55 PM
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#78
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,793
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Holy toledo Vlad... Ever think about moving further east? I reckon I could learn a thing or two off ya!
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01-07-2015, 10:30 PM
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#79
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 722
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
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Most hydraulic steering systems (assist or direct) have isolation or are independent of working hydraulic groups. I would suggest you consider an electro hydraulic power pack or a linear electric drive system.
If you use a set of electric screw rams, its easy to put an amp meter on the motors to indicate binding and other issues you night encounter when extending or retracting.
I would try to keep the steering system as simple as possible if you can.
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01-08-2015, 12:57 AM
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#80
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maple Ridge BC Canada
Posts: 200
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000 Rear engine
Engine: Cummins 8.3; MD3060
Rated Cap: 84
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Finally front side paneling is done.... Lots and lots of screws.....:
I tried using #8 stainless screws but they snapped too easy when I drove them into 1/8 aluminum frame. I switched to stainless screws #10 and they hold very well. The screws have "truss head". Here is comparison to regular screw:
I used Basf NP1 polyurethane sealer. This sealer is "very slow" which is good property in my case.
Here is a frame covered with NP1 before sheeting is attached:
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