Kwik question...since you have an RE, running plumbing anywhere is easier, but do you plan on having your drains on the driver or passenger side? Most folks hang out on the passenger side when parked and have their drains on the driver side (which is how dump stations are set up to drive into).
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Kwik question...since you have an RE, running plumbing anywhere is easier, but do you plan on having your drains on the driver or passenger side? Most folks hang out on the passenger side when parked and have their drains on the driver side (which is how dump stations are set up to drive into).
This is good info to know. I've seen that "everyone" has the plumbing on the driver's side. I don't see how FE or RE would make a difference tho unless the exhaust is in the way and it can't be all that big. Running along side of the exhaust would be "free" heat in helping it stay liquid in cold climates.
I was going to go with the conventional wisdom but obviously didn't draw it that way. Oops. The bus already has holes in the floor for the heaters on the driver's side but those will undoubtedly be in the wrong places in the wrong sizes. I should also figure this out prior to covering everything up with insulation and plywood.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Kwik question...since you have an RE, running plumbing anywhere is easier, but do you plan on having your drains on the driver or passenger side? Most folks hang out on the passenger side when parked and have their drains on the driver side (which is how dump stations are set up to drive into).
Thx to you I just lost my emergency door on the drivers side. Damn it, now what am I going to do for a door on that side? How do you plan on fixing this?!!
Flipping the driver's side kitchen and chair would work but that would leave the chair in a goofy spot. I can move the door to the passenger side. But as a guy with ZERO RV experience I kinda like the idea of a driver's side door somewhere on the bus. It's the "What if" game... What if there are bushes on the pax side? What if I park next to a building? What if the zombies are coming from the pax direction?
why cant you still have your bath on the right side and then pipe the drain over to the driver side for the tank.. you dont have a driveshaft or exhaust to worry about so your tank could still be under the tub / toilet and then just have a drain pipe across..
-Christopher
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid
why cant you still have your bath on the right side and then pipe the drain over to the driver side for the tank.. you dont have a driveshaft or exhaust to worry about so your tank could still be under the tub / toilet and then just have a drain pipe across..
-Christopher
That would depend on what the code is for the angle of the pipe. Being a homemade RV there's no real code but what does physics require? If I park on an ant hill my shower will never drain.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
I read this
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorroSeal
• Air and steel temperature shall be between 45°F (4.5ºC) and rising to 100°F (37.7ºC) & falling.
Wait until morning dew is off the surface before coating. Do not apply within 4 hours of expected rain fall or fog. Prepared surface shall be eye-visible dry. Do not apply to sweating steel. CORROSEAL® will tolerate some moisture. However, this does not include running, dripping, or sweating steel.
as meaning that humidity is fine as long as it's not standing water. Meaning I can do the conversion inside my bus if it's raining outside.
This
Quote:
Originally Posted by CorroSeal
• In enclosed compartments you must have two way air flow (ASTM Spec). Apply mechanical air movement of at least 10 to 20 atmosphere changes per hour.
however may be a problem. I can open the windows (assuming it has stopped raining). And I have a leaf blower that I can run for awhile but I can't leave it running all night.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Not saying you can't have plumbing on the passenger side, it's just more complicated. With no driveshaft to work around, it can be done.
Drive shaft would make it trickier crossing from one side to the other but the shaft is center of the vehicle right? If everything stays on whatever side it started on then there would be no issue right? Or are there cross braces or something in the way? Just curious as it doesn't apply to me.
Having everything on the driver side eliminates the need for routing plumbing and drains around the driveshaft. Not a problem on an RE but you still have frame rails and such to deal with. That's the reason most try to keep it all outside the diver side frame. Supply lines are easier to deal with since they are under pressure but drains work off gravity which limits how and where you can run them. Of course it is possible to "pump up" your poo and such to get it where you want it...and yes...it has been done. But it's a long run for a short slide.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Having everything on the driver side eliminates the need for routing plumbing and drains around the driveshaft. Not a problem on an RE but you still have frame rails and such to deal with. That's the reason most try to keep it all outside the diver side frame. Supply lines are easier to deal with since they are under pressure but drains work off gravity which limits how and where you can run them. Of course it is possible to "pump up" your poo and such to get it where you want it...and yes...it has been done. But it's a long run for a short slide.
What tanks? Composting toilet most likely. Gray water to washer nozzles. If tailgaters become a problem, set of nozzles on the rear and reroute black water.
Seriously tho, I am thinking composting toilet. One less tank, set of lines, etc.
in my opinion bucket toilets (none are true composting unless you leave stuff in it for months at a time).. smell bad..
-Christopher
I've been in many tiny houses, teardrops, and buses. When they have a "composting" setup I usually do notice the smell. I think the owners of the smells become immune from living with them.
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I've been in many tiny houses, teardrops, and buses. When they have a "composting" setup I usually do notice the smell. I think the owners of the smells become immune from living with them.
I've only seen them on paper and they have vents like traditional plumbing. Guess I better fing someone that has one and find out. Hopefully it'll smell fine sitting in a store.
The composting toilet is a derivation of the old outhouse using wood chips as the compost. The outhouses weren't stirred like the composting bucket toilets. You'd just throw a handfull of sawdust on your business after you were done and it really worked to keep an outhouse from smelling.
I'll bet a bunch of you are thinking of a tip-out to contain your outhouse now?