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Old 11-15-2018, 07:16 AM   #351
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
I'm "stealing" your design and modifying it. Think I'll do something like the ladder frame over the windshield and below the rear hatch. Use some of the left over 1"x2" tube for the uprights and the curved 1"sq tube for the horizontals. The gap for the front sheet metal is about 22". Divide that by 3 and it's less than 7 (once figuring in the tubing). Make some legs for the ladder frame to weld to the dash. I don't know how or if I will secure it at the top. I could bend some more 1" square and tie it to the rib. But It's really only there to provide some support for the sheet metal so it doesn't get all wavy gravy in the wind.


Have the uprights span between the two curved long pieces. Top long would be about equal distance down from the rivet row below the lights. It would also weld to the dash above the windshield. I figure 2 vertical supports to keep fatigue down. One in the middle might do but with it vibrating, I certainly want at least one in the middle vs. just welding at the ends. Tho with 100 rivets in it, it won't go anywhere either. Not sure I want to drill into the 1" sq 200 times tho. It's only .083 wall but drilling thru the 18 gauge sheet 200 times is going to suck as it is.




Have them sit between the two pieces like this. Only span the entire distance between the two and a piece about equal length welded to the dash to get it above the rivet line. I think I want the rivet lines unblocked so I can use the solid rivets instead of the blind rivets. There are 100 of them. Where the new framing is I'll use far fewer and use blind rivets into the 1" sq directly. Should keep it from rattling right?



The ends will have the 1" sq welded directly to the corner 1"x2" framing.

Am I missing anything? Other variants of doing the same easier?



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File Type: jpg upright.jpg (333.4 KB, 230 views)
File Type: jpg Vertical.jpg (293.8 KB, 226 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20181114_161412.jpg (260.4 KB, 223 views)
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Old 11-30-2018, 11:03 AM   #352
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,413
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Did some work IN the bus last night. Wasn't ON the bus tho. Getting tired of carrying the MIG and bottle around so I put it on the creeper. Since then, I've gotten tired of trying to roll it around on that. Went shopping for a welding cart but didn't like anything I saw until I got north of $400. No thx. So instead I bought this...





It was sold as two pieces but figured I could use a tool box as well for $60. Before bolting the casters on the base, I need to add a spot for the MIG bottle. Plan A was to get a 2'x4' 3/16" sheet to put under the entire base. The metal supplier wants $50 for that. Pass again.


Plan B was to make a half circle the same diameter as the base; 18" so the framing would match the pre-drilled holes. Upon further review that would make the cart more than 50% longer. So Plan C was to make the half circle 8"~9".




The bottom of the base has a .6" lip along the sides. I'll use some rectangle tubing as spacers and weld the semicircle to it. Maybe get a 5th caster for directly under the extension so the cart doesn't want to flip over even if empty.


This weekend I hope to finish putting it altogether. I'll need new hardware as the bolts aren't long enough for the spacers. And maybe that caster.
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File Type: jpg bottle1.jpg (304.7 KB, 210 views)
File Type: jpg bottle2.jpg (322.5 KB, 208 views)
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Old 03-11-2019, 01:37 PM   #353
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
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Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
This happened yesterday.




Finally got the front closed up and the tarp off. It was a mud pit out there but glad I stuck it out. Need to weld in the framing in the rear and do the same (get the sheet metal in more permanently in the rear). Then I can start the build in earnest (interior).
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Old 03-11-2019, 04:24 PM   #354
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Chassis: International 3800
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Went shopping for a welding cart but didn't like anything I saw until I got north of $400. No thx.
Same here. Because we end up working in dirt/mud/snow, this is our cart. I used a narrowed lawn tractor front end so it steers too.

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Old 03-11-2019, 04:59 PM   #355
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
This happened yesterday.




Finally got the front closed up and the tarp off. It was a mud pit out there but glad I stuck it out. Need to weld in the framing in the rear and do the same (get the sheet metal in more permanently in the rear). Then I can start the build in earnest (interior).
Congrats, Bob.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:45 AM   #356
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,413
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by ermracing View Post
Same here. Because we end up working in dirt/mud/snow, this is our cart. I used a narrowed lawn tractor front end so it steers too.
Nice!! I thought that looked like a tractor. Too big for my liking but mine definitely is NOT going thru any mud or snow. It's got decent casters but they are still casters.
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Old 03-12-2019, 06:48 AM   #357
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,413
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Congrats, Bob.
The Ginge's brother has agreed to come out to help on the 23rd. I need to find out if that includes her nephew as well. They came out with the roof raise. I'm out of town this weekend but depending on the weather this week and next, there may not be a lot of lifting to do by the 23rd.


Get to get my air compressor 1) running or 2) replaced so I can start riveting.
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Old 03-15-2019, 02:27 PM   #358
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,413
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Revised floor plans.


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File Type: jpg Floor Plan Elevations.jpg (81.9 KB, 140 views)
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:16 PM   #359
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I really like your floor plan. But---don't you just hate that?--- you will not like the round kitchen sink. Splurge and go double square basin. Also, in the 84" X !2" space by the entry door, could you increase that to 18" to easily accommodate clothes on standard hangers perhaps on the top and storage on the bottom? My bus is tiny next to yours and I have to use the roll and stuff method for clothes storage. As a result I usually look like a bum.
Jack
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Old 03-18-2019, 08:12 AM   #360
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,413
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt View Post
I really like your floor plan. But---don't you just hate that?--- you will not like the round kitchen sink. Splurge and go double square basin. Also, in the 84" X !2" space by the entry door, could you increase that to 18" to easily accommodate clothes on standard hangers perhaps on the top and storage on the bottom? My bus is tiny next to yours and I have to use the roll and stuff method for clothes storage. As a result I usually look like a bum.
Jack
The space by the emergency door? It's kitchen pantry. The reason it's only 12" deep is hallway. You have to be able to walk thru there. I have seen floor plans where it's a walk thru bathroom but I don't think I like those. Some even require you to walk thru the shower itself. That's fine if you are by yourself as you aren't likely to run into yourself taking a shower while going to the kitchen.

I doubt I'll put clothes in the front cabinet/TV stand but I have two more wheel well closets. Folded clothes will also go in the overhead storage in the bedroom as well.

And let's be honest, if it comes down to looking like a bum or having food on board, well... bum it is. Besides what's the point of having a skoolie and a suit?
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