Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-19-2015, 03:33 PM   #101
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jman6631 View Post
Great looking project, man!

What kind of paint did you use on the interior? Rust-Oleum? I read back a few pages but didn't find it listed.
It was Stop-Rust, the generic ACE Hardware Rustoleum.

Satin black, not that it really matters since it will all be covered. If I think of it, I'll take a picture of one of the cans.

__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 03:39 PM   #102
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_m View Post
Nice looking stuff man, we should meet up! I live in a bus yard in Denver and Im in Boulder all the time.

I did wonder why you mounted your middle panels angled? I would think that not having them at least all flat means that theres always going to be half of one of those two that is underperforming/and/overperforming the other one. This will cause efficiency issues with your charge controller, depending on how you wire the panels and what kind of technology your charge controller uses. As is, your setup might require MPPT technology (I recommend MPPT for anything over a few hundred watts anyway) Id recommend going with the same pitch on all the panels--you want to try and keep the panels performing equally.
cheers buddy! I got a beard too
Sounds good, let me know if you're ever up this way.

The view of the angle makes it look a little extreme. Really they might be 5 -10deg one way or another.

Since I plan on parking it with the tail end south, they should all see the same amount of sun with only the bottom 1 or 2 rows of cells in a deficit or surplus of sunlight.

Really, I did them that way for space reasons since I'll probably add more in the future, but I'll be interested to see how they perform.

Also, I do have an MPPT controller so no worries there. Also, I've already drilled the holes, so unless it's really bad I'll probably leave them like it is.

Unless, is there a potential for damage? I wouldn't think so, but I am certainly no expert.

PM me your number, I'll shoot you a text.
__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 03:41 PM   #103
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nebuchadnezzar View Post
Making great progress! Just turned the key on my solar for the first time yesterday, so the Neb didn't blow up
I'm no electrician, so I'm definitely nervous about this...I've got an electrician buddy who I'm going to have take a look at it before I power it up for the first time.
__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 04:20 PM   #104
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
Quote:
Originally Posted by LRflip View Post
It was Stop-Rust, the generic ACE Hardware Rustoleum.

Satin black, not that it really matters since it will all be covered. If I think of it, I'll take a picture of one of the cans.

No pics necessary my man but thanks for the offer!
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 06:54 PM   #105
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
What are the solar components that you're putting together?
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
The Nebuchadnezzar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 09:36 PM   #106
Bus Nut
 
charles_m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 489
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: DT466 Trans: MT643
Rated Cap: 65
Right on dude, my number is 3039311904 hit me up!

There's no risk of damage at all with your setup. It's just a matter of trying to eek out every last bit of power from your system! I feel like I can hardly talk since I just mounted all mine flat. Those fancy sun-tracking systems can really add hours of power, but im never going to be able to put one on my bus! What charge controller are you going with? Ive seen some low prices on smaller mppt controllers that is pretty exciting. I did a Midnite Classic 150 and really like it, and it gives me the headroom to have up to 1800 watts if I need, though Im at 1200 and it seems good so far. We'll see how the winter goes.
Rock on!
__________________
Patina enthusiast and professional busman
www.bustoshow.org
Blog: www.lookatthatbus.com
Instragram: @lookatthatbus
charles_m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2015, 09:41 PM   #107
Bus Nut
 
charles_m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 489
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: DT466 Trans: MT643
Rated Cap: 65
Also, and speaking from personal experience, make sure your friend knows about the specifics of RV and solar electric systems and not just household stuff.

Like you, I asked a friend, who is a great electrician when he works on houses, to come over and check my setup. His knowledge of DC and Solar and RV electric was limited and had I not done some research beforehand on my own, would have been left with a couple of potentially dangerous neutral bonding, DC breaker, and ground issues after his work.

I do all my own electrical now Caveat Emptor
__________________
Patina enthusiast and professional busman
www.bustoshow.org
Blog: www.lookatthatbus.com
Instragram: @lookatthatbus
charles_m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2015, 01:00 AM   #108
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nebuchadnezzar View Post
What are the solar components that you're putting together?
The MPPT Charge controller and the panels are from "WindyNation".

The Converter is made by Cobra and the batteries are Trojan T-105+ 6v.

I can't remember all the ratings off the top of my head but, I think you get my drift.

I also bought a 6 bay fuse box that I'll be filling with 15a fuses here soon and mounting with all the rest of the components. And, I've been collecting used 12-3 extension cords that I'll be using for wiring.
__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2015, 01:04 AM   #109
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_m View Post
Also, and speaking from personal experience, make sure your friend knows about the specifics of RV and solar electric systems and not just household stuff.

Like you, I asked a friend, who is a great electrician when he works on houses, to come over and check my setup. His knowledge of DC and Solar and RV electric was limited and had I not done some research beforehand on my own, would have been left with a couple of potentially dangerous neutral bonding, DC breaker, and ground issues after his work.

I do all my own electrical now Caveat Emptor
I'll keep that in mind. He's the big wig for the town L&P here...I think we're both on the same page with solar knowledge (not much), but he's receptive to new ideas and learning. I think he'll be more of a help after i get the wiring past the converter and into the fuse panel...I think I've got it to there no problem.

I'll shoot you a text in a few days. May be down by DIA on Wednesday.
__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2015, 09:33 PM   #110
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
Quote:
Originally Posted by LRflip View Post
And, I've been collecting used 12-3 extension cords that I'll be using for wiring.
You're doing high-quality thorough work on everything else; I'm surprised that you would wire with extension cords.

That's a picture of what I found in my attic this summer when the evaporative cooler started acting up. Somebody had wired it with a piece of NM cable ("Romex") plus two single conductors. They feel like primary wire. The gauge was fine; it was the wrong insulation for the job. There was a cable clamp at this location where the wires passed from the attic into the duct to continue up to the cooler. Over the years the vibration, heat, and clamping force squeezed the insulation until finally the conductor touched the cable clamp, and as you can see things carbonized and went downhill quickly from there. It finally started acting up when the copper from the red wire finished melting away. Fortunately it was a few feet above the attic insulation and no fire resulted.

Lots of people here and elsewhere wire stuff with extension cords, but I just wanted to take a moment to say it's the wrong wire (wrong insulation) for the job. I don't know how many years it took for the wire above to finally break down -- thousands of hours of run time on the cooler over the 3 summers I've been here, at least. But why build a time bomb? A 250 foot roll of NM cable is only $53 today, and strands of THHN/THWN in a conduit wouldn't be much more. Those have tougher insulation and are a better fit for the job.
family wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 06:17 AM   #111
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
By converter I'm guessing you mean inverter. This stuff made more sense to me when I consider that it's really two systems one to charge the batteries and the other to make 110v from 12v. For charging you have panels that you connect some how (combiner box, daisy chain) a controller to regulate how much you put into your batteries and a monitor if you want to do it efficiently, temperature compensation is helpful as well. Once you have stored that power in the batteries the second system converts it into 110v. Resistance from undersized wires can rob you of some of the power generated by your panels. So do your research use adequate or bigger wire. Read the manual for your inverter and solar controller and monitor and you'll be fine. It seems more complicated than it is.
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
The Nebuchadnezzar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 07:54 AM   #112
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
Hey Nebuchadnezzar,

Thanks a lot for that last one, solar is one of my requirements but I know essentially nothing about it and my strength is not electrical anyway, so this actually helps me.
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 08:34 AM   #113
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 262
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtran
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
I found both of these to be very helpful
RV Electrical
Our Electrical System
And of course https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/
__________________
"This is my ship...the Nebuchadnezzar, it's a hovercraft."
~Morpheus
The Nebuchadnezzar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 08:45 AM   #114
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
PERFECT! Thank you brother!
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 08:49 AM   #115
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
LOVE that avatar, Newmans! ;)
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2015, 12:18 PM   #116
Skoolie
 
Jman6631's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 193
YOU da man! Thanks again!
Jman6631 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2015, 04:34 PM   #117
Mini-Skoolie
 
LRflip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 67
Year: 1994
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: B700
Engine: 5.9L 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Nebuchadnezzar View Post
By converter I'm guessing you mean inverter. This stuff made more sense to me when I consider that it's really two systems one to charge the batteries and the other to make 110v from 12v. For charging you have panels that you connect some how (combiner box, daisy chain) a controller to regulate how much you put into your batteries and a monitor if you want to do it efficiently, temperature compensation is helpful as well. Once you have stored that power in the batteries the second system converts it into 110v. Resistance from undersized wires can rob you of some of the power generated by your panels. So do your research use adequate or bigger wire. Read the manual for your inverter and solar controller and monitor and you'll be fine. It seems more complicated than it is.
Yes, Inverter...I've been getting that worked messed up in my head for the last few weeks. DC to AC = Inverter.

Anyways, interesting info on the extension cords...this is something that I'm relatively unfamiliar with.

I was under the impression that 12/3 stranded (which is what the extension cords are) would be perfect for a skoolie.

I guess I'll do a bit more research.

Also, my Dickinson heater arrived today. I can not wait to get this thing mounted and fired up...but, I've discovered some pretty sizeable leaks in my windows/ceiling in the last 24 hours, so I'm gonna need to backup and tackle sealing the windows.

Probably not a whole lot of work happening this weekend, I have a friend in town.
__________________
I don't negotiate with terrorists...or Canadians.
LRflip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2015, 07:47 PM   #118
Bus Nut
 
charles_m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 489
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: DT466 Trans: MT643
Rated Cap: 65
I wired my bus with new extension cord and extension cord-type wires. All of it is either 12/3 or 14/3 (lighting circuits). What makes this kind of wire unacceptable? It seems the best to me. I always use split-loom and grommets when there is a rub potential. And I use crimp on u- connectors on the ends for clamping under the outlet's screw. If this is dangerous, how so? I believed I was following a higher standard than most in doing it this way.
charles_m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2015, 08:14 PM   #119
Skoolie
 
OMGIBoughtABus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: The Lovely PNW
Posts: 145
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: Cat 3208
Rated Cap: 84 px
Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_m View Post
I wired my bus with new extension cord and extension cord-type wires. All of it is either 12/3 or 14/3 (lighting circuits). What makes this kind of wire unacceptable? It seems the best to me. I always use split-loom and grommets when there is a rub potential. And I use crimp on u- connectors on the ends for clamping under the outlet's screw. If this is dangerous, how so? I believed I was following a higher standard than most in doing it this way.
SJO does not dissipate heat very well, the amperage ratings for 3 prong cords are assuming open air cooling.

For a permanent installation, and if I'm going to enclose the wiring in foam (inside of conduit) I would not use an extension cord.

I also wouldn't use extension cords for appliances with a high draw.
__________________
����
OMGIBoughtABus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2015, 08:52 PM   #120
Bus Nut
 
charles_m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Denver
Posts: 489
Year: 1982
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: DT466 Trans: MT643
Rated Cap: 65
Assuming this sheet is right, then I sized my wires and breakers correctly at 12/3 with 20amp breakers.

UL General-Use Circuit Ampacity Reference Chart
__________________
Patina enthusiast and professional busman
www.bustoshow.org
Blog: www.lookatthatbus.com
Instragram: @lookatthatbus
charles_m is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.