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Old 06-06-2018, 08:03 PM   #1
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Adventures with Mobi

I'm a bit behind in starting my own thread but not much really. So far we've removed the rest of the ceiling and wall panels, treated the rust and painted the floor and walls/ribs and needed. Today we started taking out the windows to reseal them but need to use an angle grinder as the back windows are riveted in place. I can't get a ladder flat to reach with the angle grinder so I tried to move the bus forward. Battery is very weak and won't start it. SO we pulled the battery and I can get it charged tomorrow.

Meanwhile we are chasing wiring down while the battery is out anyway.

Does anyone know what this is? The round thing. There was a wire with a ring connector on the top of it that was cut anyway.
20180606_153132.jpeg
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:00 PM   #2
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12 volt ignition on solenoid it will turn off all additional 12 volt consumers when the vehicle ignition is off.
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Old 06-08-2018, 02:32 PM   #3
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Location: Tahoe
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Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Originally Posted by Seriousracer View Post
12 volt ignition on solenoid it will turn off all additional 12 volt consumers when the vehicle ignition is off.
If it's not working or everything isn't hooked up to it that should be, could this be why my starter battery is running down when I am not using the bus?
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:38 PM   #4
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Could be letting a something stay on
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Old 06-20-2018, 01:10 PM   #5
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Join Date: Feb 2018
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Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Originally Posted by Seriousracer View Post
Could be letting a something stay on
We have removed some more things and now it seems to be better, so who knows.

Right now we are trying to figure out how to frame around the edge of the floor insulation by the emergency exit door. We are leaving a step sized area to help with getting in and out of the bus there. The opening is small as it is and 2.5" of insulation, subfloor and floor will make it really hard to use it as a mini garage. We want to try to do that. I'm not SURE that will work.

We cut down 2x4s and made a 3 sided frame. I'm going to use some exterior stain on it to protect the wood. I plan to use way thinner insulation, plywood, and then non slip VCT the same as for the entry steps and driver area for the step section and then I have to figure out how to edge THAT.

Maybe we can sprayfoam underneath that step section also and then cover it with undercoating. It seems like we might be able to squirt some slow rise foam into the door thru the holes from removing the handle. It probably won't fill the whole cavity but it would be better than nothing. Has anyone done this? Is there closed cell canned slow rise spray foam?

From my reading I am planning on 18 gauge sheet metal cut to size to skin over some windows. We could do it if we get it cut for us for each window and we use butyl tape and screws. If we can find someone pro to do it they could do 3 windows at once and weld it.

How exactly do people size the replacement metal for their windows? If I am going to use butyl tape I figure I will want it as large as possible to have plenty of overlap. If it's going to be welded I THINK it would be smaller- more like exactly the size of the opening without overlap? And what do I do on the BOTTOM edge if I use butyl tape? There isn't a way to overlap it there unless I have the metal cut large and then bent under, is there? Or I could screw and butyl tape an angle on the bottom of each piece?

I get the general idea but when it comes down to EXACTLY how to do it I realize I am not sure, and I have to be *sure* before I have the metal cut or it's going to be a mess.

I asked a metal fabricator and they said we cut metal to the exact size you tell us. Yeah, that does not help.
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Old 06-20-2018, 07:37 PM   #6
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Location: Brevard County, FL
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
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Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
I screwed mine in from the outside. I used Dynatron 550 automotive seam sealer. Worked pretty good.
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Old 06-22-2018, 12:53 PM   #7
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I screwed mine in from the outside. I used Dynatron 550 automotive seam sealer. Worked pretty good.
What size did you cut them-as large as possible to fit inside the ribs and under the lip to maximize the area for seam sealer and screws?? Did you put the sheet metal inside and screw from the outside? What kind of screws?
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Old 06-22-2018, 02:56 PM   #8
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Year: 1990
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What size did you cut them-as large as possible to fit inside the ribs and under the lip to maximize the area for seam sealer and screws?? Did you put the sheet metal inside and screw from the outside? What kind of screws?
I attached from outside. I had the steel cut at 25" x 10'. I used 20ga galvaneal (paint ready) sheet metal. Icut the lengths I needed as I needed them. I shoved them up under the rain caps/gutter things as far as I could and they rest on the top of the chair rail. I used stainless steel 1/2" and 3/4" (where I though it needed a lil extra grip) truss head screws. I'll take a picture of the box. I'll go take some pics now.
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Old 06-22-2018, 04:25 PM   #9
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Location: Brevard County, FL
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Year: 1990
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford
Engine: 6.6 New Holland Dies
Rated Cap: 60 kids, 10 window
Here's some pics of what I didIMG_20180622_145842.jpegIMG_20180622_145722.jpegIMG_20180622_145730.jpegIMG_20180622_145736.jpegIMG_20180622_155529.jpeg
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Old 06-23-2018, 11:01 AM   #10
Bus Nut
 
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Engine: T444E w/ MT643
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Looks good! I realized yesterday that the window openings all tilt inward toward the bus. No wonder bus windows leak! I checked it on one side and thought hmm, maybe the bus isn't level but no, both sides angle INWARD. Talk about a design flaw.
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