Adventures with Mobi

[2martins]

I'm a bit behind in starting my own thread but not much really. So far we've removed the rest of the ceiling and wall panels, treated the rust and painted the floor and walls/ribs and needed. Today we started taking out the windows to reseal them but need to use an angle grinder as the back windows are riveted in place. I can't get a ladder flat to reach with the angle grinder so I tried to move the bus forward. Battery is very weak and won't start it. SO we pulled the battery and I can get it charged tomorrow.

Meanwhile we are chasing wiring down while the battery is out anyway.

Does anyone know what this is? The round thing. There was a wire with a ring connector on the top of it that was cut anyway.

[Seriousracer]

12 volt ignition on solenoid it will turn off all additional 12 volt consumers when the vehicle ignition is off.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by Seriousracer

12 volt ignition on solenoid it will turn off all additional 12 volt consumers when the vehicle ignition is off.

If it's not working or everything isn't hooked up to it that should be, could this be why my starter battery is running down when I am not using the bus?

[Seriousracer]

Could be letting a something stay on

[2martins]

Originally Posted by Seriousracer

Could be letting a something stay on

We have removed some more things and now it seems to be better, so who knows.

Right now we are trying to figure out how to frame around the edge of the floor insulation by the emergency exit door. We are leaving a step sized area to help with getting in and out of the bus there. The opening is small as it is and 2.5" of insulation, subfloor and floor will make it really hard to use it as a mini garage. We want to try to do that. I'm not SURE that will work.

We cut down 2x4s and made a 3 sided frame. I'm going to use some exterior stain on it to protect the wood. I plan to use way thinner insulation, plywood, and then non slip VCT the same as for the entry steps and driver area for the step section and then I have to figure out how to edge THAT.

Maybe we can sprayfoam underneath that step section also and then cover it with undercoating. It seems like we might be able to squirt some slow rise foam into the door thru the holes from removing the handle. It probably won't fill the whole cavity but it would be better than nothing. Has anyone done this? Is there closed cell canned slow rise spray foam?

From my reading I am planning on 18 gauge sheet metal cut to size to skin over some windows. We could do it if we get it cut for us for each window and we use butyl tape and screws. If we can find someone pro to do it they could do 3 windows at once and weld it.

How exactly do people size the replacement metal for their windows? If I am going to use butyl tape I figure I will want it as large as possible to have plenty of overlap. If it's going to be welded I THINK it would be smaller- more like exactly the size of the opening without overlap? And what do I do on the BOTTOM edge if I use butyl tape? There isn't a way to overlap it there unless I have the metal cut large and then bent under, is there? Or I could screw and butyl tape an angle on the bottom of each piece?

I get the general idea but when it comes down to EXACTLY how to do it I realize I am not sure, and I have to be *sure* before I have the metal cut or it's going to be a mess.

I asked a metal fabricator and they said we cut metal to the exact size you tell us. Yeah, that does not help.

[Ninjakitty]

I screwed mine in from the outside. I used Dynatron 550 automotive seam sealer. Worked pretty good.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by Ninjakitty

I screwed mine in from the outside. I used Dynatron 550 automotive seam sealer. Worked pretty good.

What size did you cut them-as large as possible to fit inside the ribs and under the lip to maximize the area for seam sealer and screws?? Did you put the sheet metal inside and screw from the outside? What kind of screws?

[Ninjakitty]

Originally Posted by 2martins

What size did you cut them-as large as possible to fit inside the ribs and under the lip to maximize the area for seam sealer and screws?? Did you put the sheet metal inside and screw from the outside? What kind of screws?

I attached from outside. I had the steel cut at 25" x 10'. I used 20ga galvaneal (paint ready) sheet metal. Icut the lengths I needed as I needed them. I shoved them up under the rain caps/gutter things as far as I could and they rest on the top of the chair rail. I used stainless steel 1/2" and 3/4" (where I though it needed a lil extra grip) truss head screws. I'll take a picture of the box. I'll go take some pics now.

[Ninjakitty]

Here's some pics of what I did

[2martins]

Originally Posted by Ninjakitty

Here's some pics of what I didAttachment 23502Attachment 23503Attachment 23504Attachment 23505Attachment 23506

Looks good! I realized yesterday that the window openings all tilt inward toward the bus. No wonder bus windows leak! I checked it on one side and thought hmm, maybe the bus isn't level but no, both sides angle INWARD. Talk about a design flaw.

[Ninjakitty]

Yeah, I'm not real sure buses are built to be leak free. Just build em and send em. Especially in the 90's

[2martins]

The floor is almost entirely covered with 2" insulation with the seams taped. I need to figure out how to frame off the edge before I can finish it. Got then first section of subfloor laid in the back. Surely we will get faster at this?!?! We are SO SLOW!


I have pics on my phone. I will reply to this from my phone and hopefully I can attach them that way.

We also tested out our method of attaching wood to the chair rail for the walls and I think it is really sturdy. I need to go to HD (again!) and get more of the construction screws. We had to assemble and figure out my Dremel stand that makes it a drill press so we could drill pilot holes in the wood to line up with the holes in the chair rail. It works!

we took the antenna off the roof and my son patched the hole. I cut 8 large circles out to cover the flashers. I need to beat one of them flat still before I can install it.


I have also had to vacuum the pollen out of the bus at least 8 times.

We ordered the sheet metal to cover some windows; it should be done next week. The spray foam arrives soon so we need to get the strapping and window skins in.

I have done a lot of work on the yard (defensible space cleaning) while my son teaches summer camp then we try to work in the afternoon for a while.

He's made the battery cables and crimped the lugs on and figured out some other electrical stuff.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by 2martins

The floor is almost entirely covered with 2" insulation with the seams taped. I need to figure out how to frame off the edge before I can finish it. Got then first section of subfloor laid in the back. Surely we will get faster at this?!?! We are SO SLOW!


I have pics on my phone. I will reply to this from my phone and hopefully I can attach them that way.

We also tested out our method of attaching wood to the chair rail for the walls and I think it is really sturdy. I need to go to HD (again!) and get more of the construction screws. We had to assemble and figure out my Dremel stand that makes it a drill press so we could drill pilot holes in the wood to line up with the holes in the chair rail. It works!

we took the antenna off the roof and my son patched the hole. I cut 8 large circles out to cover the flashers. I need to beat one of them flat still before I can install it.


I have also had to vacuum the pollen out of the bus at least 8 times.

We ordered the sheet metal to cover some windows; it should be done next week. The spray foam arrives soon so we need to get the strapping and window skins in.

I have done a lot of work on the yard (defensible space cleaning) while my son teaches summer camp then we try to work in the afternoon for a while.

He's made the battery cables and crimped the lugs on and figured out some other electrical stuff.

Ok, so we got the first bit of the subfloor in. It took *forever* but we did a good job cutting it straight with just a circular saw. But as you can see, when I step on the edge of the plywood, it moves. We can't get the plywood into place under the chair rail unless we cut it in the middle, unless we leave a big gap along the edge. I HAVE a half inch gap for expansion and contraction.

My plan was to have a floating floor but how is that going to work with the plywood flexing? I have 19/32" over 2" of insulation. There IS a bit of flex in the floor underneath in that area, but it is not oil canned.

Help please!

[2martins]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Ok, so we got the first bit of the subfloor in. It took *forever* but we did a good job cutting it straight with just a circular saw. But as you can see, when I step on the edge of the plywood, it moves. We can't get the plywood into place under the chair rail unless we cut it in the middle, unless we leave a big gap along the edge. I HAVE a half inch gap for expansion and contraction.

My plan was to have a floating floor but how is that going to work with the plywood flexing? I have 19/32" over 2" of insulation. There IS a bit of flex in the floor underneath in that area, but it is not oil canned.

Help please!
Attachment 23726Attachment 23727

I tried putting a stiff piece of metal under this and if I glue the plywood to the metal this may work. I don't want to glue all the plywood down to the insulation because it will all get ruined if I ever need to pull some of it up.

However, given my lack of skills and tools, cutting the plywood perfectly and at a 45 degree angle at each edge to minimize butt joint issues is probably not gonna happen.

So should I just give up and glue the plywood to the insulation? Or if it moves when I step on it now is it going to continue to move even if glued without extra support and crack my flooring over time anyway? I wanted to do a floating floor, but perhaps a floating subfloor, insulation AND floor is not an option unless I have mad skills and a perfectly flat not flexing bus floor to start?

I have searched the threads for subfloor and related terms but I can't find answers.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by 2martins

I tried putting a stiff piece of metal under this and if I glue the plywood to the metal this may work. I don't want to glue all the plywood down to the insulation because it will all get ruined if I ever need to pull some of it up.

However, given my lack of skills and tools, cutting the plywood perfectly and at a 45 degree angle at each edge to minimize butt joint issues is probably not gonna happen.

So should I just give up and glue the plywood to the insulation? Or if it moves when I step on it now is it going to continue to move even if glued without extra support and crack my flooring over time anyway? I wanted to do a floating floor, but perhaps a floating subfloor, insulation AND floor is not an option unless I have mad skills and a perfectly flat not flexing bus floor to start?

I have searched the threads for subfloor and related terms but I can't find answers.

This is why tongue and groove plywood is best for flooring.

[Tango]

I'll second the choice of T&G. And if you can't find it in what you need...you can use "bisquits" and a router. That's what I did with the 1/2" marine ply on mine.

[joeblack5]

Tongue and groove all the way. We re-used some of the original seats to make a dinette. And used thru bolts to keep the plywood in place and clamped down to prevent it from warping.


Later J

[2martins]

Originally Posted by joeblack5

Tongue and groove all the way. We re-used some of the original seats to make a dinette. And used thru bolts to keep the plywood in place and clamped down to prevent it from warping.


Later J

We already had to rent a trailer to get the first round of plywood here. They don't sell the T&G in 1/2 in here, only 3/4 (both nominal) and we had picked 1/2". It's not available for delivery either. No roof raise for us, but we do have a 78" ceiling.

We tried the sikkaflex to the stiff flare metal yesterday and put something heavy on that place. I guess we'll see how it looks today. This area is going to be under the bed anyway, but I wanted to practice here to avoid problems further down the road.

It took us DAYS to do the first 3 sections of subfloor because of the tricky cuts around the rear engine and wheel wells. We don't have a table saw. I've already bought so many tools!!! If there were a prize for slowest subfloor installation we would definitely win!!!

I guess I'll be using T&G plywood on my *next* skoolie!!

I tried dowels but I think biscuits would be better. I don't have a router but I do have a dremel and a multi max and there may be a way to make one of those work.

I can make my dremel into a drill press with a stand I have and that was really handy for pilot holes for the furring strips we put on the chair rail.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by 2martins

We already had to rent a trailer to get the first round of plywood here. They don't sell the T&G in 1/2 in here, only 3/4 (both nominal) and we had picked 1/2". It's not available for delivery either. No roof raise for us, but we do have a 78" ceiling.

We tried the sikkaflex to the stiff flare metal yesterday and put something heavy on that place. I guess we'll see how it looks today. This area is going to be under the bed anyway, but I wanted to practice here to avoid problems further down the road.

It took us DAYS to do the first 3 sections of subfloor because of the tricky cuts around the rear engine and wheel wells. We don't have a table saw. I've already bought so many tools!!! If there were a prize for slowest subfloor installation we would definitely win!!!

I guess I'll be using T&G plywood on my *next* skoolie!!

I tried dowels but I think biscuits would be better. I don't have a router but I do have a dremel and a multi max and there may be a way to make one of those work.

I can make my dremel into a drill press with a stand I have and that was really handy for pilot holes for the furring strips we put on the chair rail.

The stiff piece of metal underneath the edges where those 3 pieces of plywood meet covered with some sikkaflex seems to have done the job. It's quite level now and doesn't seem to want to move. We just made a bigger gap along the edges for the rest of the bus going toward the front so we could get the playwood into position by angling it under the chair rail. This would be almost impossible without 2 people. I used closed cell foam backer rod along the edges to allow for expansion but not movement (hopefully).

Yesterday we tried to affix the wood to the very front of the bus to frame in the floating floor behing it. We got two screws thru the wood into the floor by using pilots holes and onstruction screws (spax?). We broke or ruined several. We wanted to get more screws in than that. I sikkaflexed the crap out of it, but I still would like to get some mechanical fasteners in there as well. I am a big believe in the belt and suspenders approach. Suggestions?

The frame rail is right below PART of the 2x4 on it's side, but we can get a screw into the floor next to that.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by 2martins

The stiff piece of metal underneath the edges where those 3 pieces of plywood meet covered with some sikkaflex seems to have done the job. It's quite level now and doesn't seem to want to move. We just made a bigger gap along the edges for the rest of the bus going toward the front so we could get the playwood into position by angling it under the chair rail. This would be almost impossible without 2 people. I used closed cell foam backer rod along the edges to allow for expansion but not movement (hopefully).

Yesterday we tried to affix the wood to the very front of the bus to frame in the floating floor behing it. We got two screws thru the wood into the floor by using pilots holes and onstruction screws (spax?). We broke or ruined several. We wanted to get more screws in than that. I sikkaflexed the crap out of it, but I still would like to get some mechanical fasteners in there as well. I am a big believe in the belt and suspenders approach. Suggestions?

The frame rail is right below PART of the 2x4 on it's side, but we can get a screw into the floor next to that.

I tried the biscuits but the 1/2 plywood is too finicky for that to work. We may have to glue it down or do the metal sikkaflex thing again. That part is holding up fine.

Removing and cleaning the windows is taking FOREVER and they still don't look that good. We have MOST of them back in, reinstalled with butyl tape, weather stripping, and we will finish with sikkaflex. Some of the windows did NOT want to go back into place. After attempting various adjustments to the windows etc I finally took an angle grinder to the top off the c channel above those windows and took off just 1/8th". I can't imagine that tiny amount is going to do anything structural. We have 3 pieces of sheet metal in but 5 of them were the wrong size so we are waiting for them to be re-done. Not impressed with the sheet metal shop that charges that much and can't cut an F'ing RECTANGLE!?!?!?

We built the wheel well boxes and they are not square, but neither is the bus, so...

We finally got the old linoleum off the stairs. That was hard! We have 6/8 flasher holes covered with circles I cut out of metal we removed. The other 2 are problematic because the bus came pre-dented in that area and it's not flat. I use a panel beater hammer on that section every now and then for a few minutes.

Haven't started the bus in weeks.

Cobbled together a way to lock the emergency side door. I think it may actually work.

Need to finish the ceiling panels with stain we picked (left over from my house) because our color scheme is "free." I have my ceiling panels all cut and laid on on boards to bend them to the curve of the bus so that it will HOPEFULLY be a bit easier to install them. I have 4x8 sheets of thin 1/4 birch sanded plywood that we are going to pressure fit in place. We have the "foot" installed on one side and we have tested our idea. It's going to be a b!tch to install the other foot which will hold the other side in place. It took 3 people to test fit one piece. I think 4 people and some dead man's lifts will make it do-able. The foot is a 2x2 with a 1/4" notch that will hold the ceiling in place against the ribs at the bottom and against the straps/furring strips at 3 points along the ribs higher up. The center of the ribs wanted to flex in so we cut rigid insulation to fit behind the ceiling all along the foot. We tested it and it looked good. We are getting closer to being ready to spray foam.

Got lucky and got nice kitchen cabinets free off a local Facebook group. Also got a gas stove/oven that is already converted to work with propane free. It's large but I figure the oven is good storage space when it's not in use and you have an oven if you want one. My son actually cooks so he was all for it.

Need to finish cleaning the last two windows and re-install the last 6 or so. Thank God I live somewhere dry because we have had the windows out for over a month and only had to throw the tarps on twice briefly. First time we used the one enormous tarp I bought. It was too big to use. Giant PITA.