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Old 08-11-2011, 06:44 PM   #241
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Re: Best Home Yet

AND NOW! The moment you have been waiting for.

The Tire Change.

In these first three photos you see that one wheel has been removed.

Jesse (at the tire shop) used a pneumatic jack to raise the bus.










Jesse used the two stage compressor mounted on the back of his Ford pickup to power the jack as well as a very heavy (50lbs) air gun.


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Old 08-11-2011, 06:47 PM   #242
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Re: Best Home Yet

Here are some pictures of that air gun.










Here you see the passenger side wheel with new (to me) tire being installed. It is a used tire that is excellent.







OH, by the way, we were wondering why the driver's side wheel was being extremely difficult in getting the lug nuts off.

We sprayed WD40 on the threads yet the nuts weren't coming off.

I suggested to Jesse that they might be left hand threads.

Lo and Behold they were indeed left hand threads, which of course means that you have to turn clockwise to remove the nut
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:49 PM   #243
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Re: Best Home Yet

Jesse working on removing the old tire from the rim.








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Old 08-11-2011, 06:51 PM   #244
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Re: Best Home Yet

A pic of my nice front tire. I had both the front tires replaced. Also the air pressure was checked on the four rear tires. 100 psi is what they put in. These are Bridgestone 11R 22.5 tires. They are not recaps.


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Old 08-11-2011, 06:52 PM   #245
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Re: Best Home Yet

As per someone's suggestion, I painted over the blue and amber lenses in the front at the top of the bus.




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Old 08-11-2011, 06:55 PM   #246
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Re: Best Home Yet

I also painted the side panels where the remnants of the letters stating Johnson City Emergency Management were.

I used two spray cans of Krylon Indoor/Outdoor white paint. They were on sale for 3 bucks a can.

They came in flat, semi-gloss, and gloss. I used the semi-gloss and got a good blend with the old paint on the panels.




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Old 08-11-2011, 06:58 PM   #247
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Re: Best Home Yet

Here we are at Rudy's Garage Series.

There is a lot of play in the steering wheel.

I have been looking up info on the web. Perhaps I can adjust some of the play out. It is a Ross Cam And Lever system.

Here's a little info. Presently, I don't know how to adjust it. Hopefully, in the next few days, I will know enough to either be able to adjust the play or realize that I should just leave it as it is.

Info:

Ross cam-and-lever steering uses a steering column tube or input shaft with a cam at the bottom. This worm cam resembles round bar stock with a spiral groove machined into the cam. A lever is at the inner end of the lever shaft. Pins on the lever engage the cam groove. At the outer end of the lever shaft, splines attach to the pitman arm. The lever pins move with the steering wheel and cam rotation, swinging the lever shaft and pitman arm clockwise or counterclockwise.
Ross cam-and-lever gears are common to Jeep, International-Harvester, and Studebaker trucks. The heyday of Ross gears was the pre-war period to mid-'60s. Primitive and wear-prone, light-duty Ross cam-and-lever gears have fixed lever pins and a higher friction factor than other designs. Heavier-duty Ross gears mount the lever pins on bearings. Those designs are available in both single- and twin-stud versions.


Read more: http://classictrucks.automotive.com/120 ... z1LCFM9b1K



Here is a diagram. I am going to have to stare at this thing for a while to understand how it works.


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Old 08-11-2011, 06:59 PM   #248
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Re: Best Home Yet

In the cam and lever steering gear, the worm is known as a cam. The innerend of the pitman arm shaft has a lever that contains a tapered stud. Thestud engages in the cam so that the lever is moved back and forth when thecam is turned back and forth.When the tapered stud is fixed in the lever so that it can't rotate, thereis sliding friction between it and the cam. Therefore, on some vehicleswith this type of steering gear, the stud is mounted in bearings so that itrolls in the cam groove (threads) instead of sliding.Some large trucks use a cam and twin*lever steering gear. This is nothingmore than a cam and lever gear with two tapered studs instead of one. Thestuds may be fixed in the lever, or they may be mounted on bearings.




Some more info:

Ross cam & lever steering

That is what is written on the steering wheel hub. Unlike the modern recirculating-ball or rack and pinion methods, cam and lever steering, in addition to mechanical advantage, offered a unique one-way friction mechanism to inhibit the transmission of road shocks back through the steering wheel. When adjusted properly, it gave silky smooth control and a really Cadillac feel to those old rigs.

However, unlike recirculating-ball steering, cam and lever was unforgiving of wear. If normal adjustment of your Ross cam and lever steering failed to eliminate steering wheel play, you had better take the unit out of service to rebuild or replace the steering gear; for total failure would not be long in coming.

What I have to learn is, what is normal adjustment.
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:01 PM   #249
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Re: Best Home Yet

Judging from this diagram, it does not like like there is much of an adjustability.

I can see how the two studs would get worn on the sides as they traveled in the cam grooves.








Cam and lever steering boxes are very similar to worm and sector steering boxes. The worm drive is known as a cam and has a much shallower pitch and the sector gear is replaced with two studs that sit in the cam channels. As the worm gear is turned, the studs slide along the cam channels which forces the cross shaft to rotate, turning the pitman arm. One of the design features of this style is that it turns the cross shaft 90 to the normal so it exits through the side of the steering box instead of the bottom. This can result in a very compact design when necessary.

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/steering_bible ... z1LCQY6gmf
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Old 08-11-2011, 07:03 PM   #250
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Re: Best Home Yet

And now, back to Rudy's garage.

Here are some pics of the steering system on my bus. The first one is of the steering box. It is large.

That must be the Pittman arm connected to the steering box. And connected to that must be the drag link. It has grease fittings on each end of it.










The drag link goes from the Pittman arm and goes to the where it connects to the driver's side front wheel. At that point, the steering action is transfered to the passenger side wheel via the tie rod and it's tie rod ends.

I did some greasing under the bus. I am happy to report that this bus was well maintained. Therefore, all the grease fittings were attended to.




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