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Old 07-30-2015, 07:38 AM   #81
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
Posts: 313
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
I've been working on the bus more this week. I patched the last of the big holes with the tiger fuzz then bought some silicone to plug the little nail/bolt holes. Last night I sprayed a can of rubberized undercoating on one section of the floor. I'm gonna see how well it set tonight. If it all looks good I'll spray the rest of the floor.

As a little side note: PPE is important. I bought this little mask because I thought the fumes from the spray would be pretty bad. I couldn't smell any of the spray with the mask on.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Silicone Pox.jpg (138.1 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Tiger Fuzz.jpg (110.9 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg undercoating.jpg (110.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Spray Floor.jpg (112.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Walter White.JPG (149.9 KB, 7 views)
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Old 08-01-2015, 11:08 AM   #82
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
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Year: 1988
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Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
I've been able to push up my schedule by postponing or eliminating things on my wish list. I decided not to tear out the interior sheet metal for now. I'm also gonna postpone the installation of tanks until the spring.
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Old 08-01-2015, 12:12 PM   #83
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Year: 1976
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Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
A lot of times you have to re-plan and change directions, but you'll get there...keep up the good work.
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Old 08-01-2015, 01:48 PM   #84
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
IMO it's still hard to beat a four pound hammer and a long, 1 inch cold chisel with a hand guard to bust rivets.

Or a decent air hammer with a flat chisel.

On the rub rails I found the walls moved and flexed too much for the hammering. So I used a cobalt bit to drill the centers out of the rivets. Only a few seconds on each one.

Step bits are useless for this application. They would also be a waste, as you would only be wearing out the tip.

I had a steady hand so I had no need for the center punch until after the rivet head was drilled off.

I have a plasma, but would never use it for this application. Way to messy and dangerous. And I'm not a fan of breathing vaporized metal and paint.

Nat
If the rivet has a mandrel in the center you'll need a punch.
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Old 08-01-2015, 04:35 PM   #85
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: TC2000 FE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
If the rivet has a mandrel in the center you'll need a punch.
Yes and no.

It fully depends on the drill being used, and the skill level of the user.

After some practice , I found myself no longer needing the punch.

Nat
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:20 AM   #86
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Tomball, TX
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9TA
I made some more progress this weekend. I installed the insulation and flooring. I also ran a 2x4 stud horizontally along the walls at the floor. I framed around the wheel wells with 2x2s. I started framing the dining area, but it was toward the end of the day and I was tired. The warped 2x2s were frustrating so I decided to pack up and call it a day. I probably drank over a gallon of water/powerade yesterday. It was 100+ degrees (38 for the metrically inclined).
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:30 AM   #87
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
Congratulations on getting that much finished. I sometimes think we should be considering safety when working on a bus alone in these temps. A friend once went out to an enclosed trailer used for storage to do inventory. He was late for break so someone checked on him and found him sitting on the doorway of the trailer, too weak from the heat.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:45 AM   #88
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Agreed- I was at a junkyard impound lot stripping out an RV a couple months ago and I had to lie down in the shade between junk vehicles for a good 20 minutes. I almost passed out from heat/exhaustion. It was really scary.
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Old 08-03-2015, 07:46 AM   #89
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster View Post
Yes and no.

It fully depends on the drill being used, and the skill level of the user.

After some practice , I found myself no longer needing the punch.

Nat
The hardened steel mandrels in mine would eat your drill bits for breakfast.
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Old 08-03-2015, 12:16 PM   #90
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I just think using the punch to start is simple insurance. It only takes a second and I can punch a bunch in no time.
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