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Old 12-08-2012, 01:07 PM   #21
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Re: Bigole'61

Dwise, You are using the new Photobucket which is fine. Since you managed to get the program to say copied, try going to the end of your Skoolie page and post a reply. Open it and type the following: [b] now press control and V at the same time and watch for the image info to appear Then type[b/] Now preview your post. Did you get a pic?

I have found it easier to add a title to the pic simply by typing it in after the [b] entry followed by control V and [b/]

You will want to double space between pic entries or the titles seem to run together.

My original instructions were for the original Photobucket so we are both learning here. Let me know, Jack
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Old 12-08-2012, 06:54 PM   #22
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Re: Bigole'61

LOVE the small SceniCruiser style glass above the main windows. Should make for some very cool window/skin options.
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:19 PM   #23
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Re: Bigole'61

Cool,!!
Lose the"b" tags they are for bold text (if you put brackets on this "b") followed text and the put "/b" in brackets it will make the in between bold. see same with "I" makes it italized see
Very cool windows by the way
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:55 PM   #24
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Re: Bigole'61

D, Congrats on getting PB to work--now you can post as many pics as you want! And WE want! Bansil knows way more about this computer stuff than I do. Try his suggestion--I'm sure the results will be better and simpler to work with.

I looked at several busses with those beautiful upper windows in them. Sure wish that had been an option as even at 6'1" I could stand up straight in them. Funny what makes the final determination on our choice of busses. In my case the thing had to fit in my garage which limited its height and length-- I love it anyway despite its small stature.

I'm thinking about spray in insulation for the roof. Yours would be easy to do and the spray foam would be easy to trim because of all those bows. The spray in would also stop water from condensing between the outter and inner roof--hence no rust.

Love that bus. It was a great find! Jack
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:31 PM   #25
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Re: Bigole'61

Lead is only old school Bondo. Get a better mig welder and/or better welder to do the work. Just remember, no matter how good the welder (machine or human) you can't weld rust (or lead for that matter). Also, lead has almost NO structural value same as Bondo. Also, I have had several mig welders large and small over the years and none have had a felt wipe. I do agree that the wire on the spool and the tip need to be clean. My two cents worth. Jack
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:01 PM   #26
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Re: Bigole'61

If you don't have a decent tip, the wire won't feed well. They don't last very long, people buy them by the bag. If the wire isn't shiny and new looking get a new roll. The wipe goes over the wire after it comes off the spool, and before it enters the rollers. It doesn't do a whole lot, a piece of scotch brite pad folded over the wire with some baling wire to pinch it on there will work. It just rides on the weld wire as it unspools, but doesn't feed into the rollers. The liner of the mig leads can go bad as well. Tips and the wipes don't cost much at all, liners aren't bad either. I would get some tips and some decent wire. If the welder is going to sit a while when you're done you might want to take the wire inside.
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Old 12-10-2012, 10:22 AM   #27
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Re: Bigole'61

Forget the lead. As stated earlier, it is of no value at all structurally and like Bondo won't last very long what with engine & road vibration constantly working the metal around it.

And regarding mig welding...unless your wire looks consistently shiny and bright...toss it. As for tips, that depends on the machine & operator. A friends little Harbor Freight rig eats tips like teenager going after Cheetos...but my Miller(s) only require changing if I do something stupid. I think between the two machines I own I may have replaced two tips in the last five years.

Weld the steel...only use Bondo (filler) for what it was intended...as a pre-paint surfacing material.

PS...and unless you are converting an all fiberglass bus...a small mig is a worthwhile investment. I call'em Monkey Welders as anyone can learn to use one in about an hour and they will pay for themselves in no time. Plus, they open up many possibilities, including fixing things that would otherwise be approached the wrong way...like Bondoing.
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Old 12-31-2012, 11:51 AM   #28
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Re: Bigole'61

One more option to consider...check a local body shop/auto paint supply house for "seam sealer". Tougher than silicone, fills well, seals great and remains flexible. No adhesive or filling properties to roofing paper.
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #29
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Re: Bigole'61

Tango has it right--that is the best way to go. I'd only add you might want to treat the area the filler is going to be used with rust converter after you have chipped off any loose rust and before applying the sealer. Jack
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:03 AM   #30
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Re: Bigole'61

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwise
Happy New Year to all! Thanks for the advice. Took a closer look today and discovered that the metal directly on top of the bows has nothing to separate the two.I could see about 6" of this and don't see any rust, but there is still the dripping rivets to investigate.Had a fifteen minute mig welding lesson and am confident I can blow BIG holes in thin metal!

Thanks I needed that
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