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Old 03-03-2016, 01:56 AM   #21
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
I experienced all that glory myself. Persevere!
Check out the pics in my build thread "Roll Your Own". I hated those spot welds!
I'm painting the ENTIRE interior of the bus.

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Old 03-03-2016, 09:16 AM   #22
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Virginia
Posts: 548
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleMagicGuy View Post
Ok seats are all out. 85% of the crappy plywood floor is out. Still have to get around the heaters and such. Rust on the floor was fairly wide spread but most was surface rust with just a few pockets of deeper rust. I ground out all the scaly rust. And today started removing the side panels to get at the insulation but to our surprise other than I hate Rivit removal guess what...the side panels are all spot welded every 1/2 inch to the bottom of the window frame! So we got the first 6 foot piece of interior panel removed only to struggle with the welding. And the insulation was fairly good under three Windows but water was coming inside from the bottoms of the window ledge. So I will have to use some kind of silicone or something to seal each window ledge. I did not see any black mold so that is good. I removed the insulation and noticed when I pressed on the exterior skin from the inside that there was moisture between where they put the calking or sealant. So I am thinking of painting the inside exterior panels before I add insulation. Any thoughts on anything I posted? Any one else experience spot welds by the Windows?
Probably use a spot weld cutter as shown on the sites below will be the easiest and fastest way to remove the panels. Harbor Freight has them for a cheap price.


Spot Weld Cutter - 3/8" Spot Weld Cutter Drill Bit


Northern Industrial Welders Spot Weld Cutters Drill Bit Set — Double-Edge, 2-Pc. Set | Welding Hand Tools Gauges| Northern Tool + Equipment
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:32 AM   #23
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Spot weld cutters are about the only way to remove most of those type panels without wrecking the sheetmetal around it. RPITA when there are a lot of them though. About the only other alternative I know of is to chop out the whole area then replace it with new metal. Under some circumstances, not a bad option if you have the metal working tools & skills.

BTW...I HATE spot welds. They just about always leave gaps between the two sheets that trap moisture. Thank goodness I only had a couple to deal with on my '46.
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:39 AM   #24
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
I've got spot welds in my bus as well; I was taking a cold chisel and hammer. I'm planning on taking a grinder wheel on the welds
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Old 03-03-2016, 04:07 PM   #25
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,762
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
I'm paneling over it all, so I just sheared mine off with a chisel on an air hammer. The bit with the V in it worked pretty well.
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Old 03-07-2016, 07:56 PM   #26
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 61
Year: 2002
Coachwork: tc2000
Chassis: blue bird
Engine: cummings 5.9
I used rubberized undercoat in a rattle can bought from Home Depot for the interior of all the walls and ceiling before putting in new insulation. about $3.50 a can and I used about 15 cans on my 28 footer.

The thought was to seal from moisture and also cut down on road noise while in transit. I did nothing on my old bus and road noise was pretty rough and it was a 03'...
I also went nuts with a case or two of caulk just for good measure.. Sure made me feel better if nothing else...
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