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Old 02-11-2016, 09:07 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Very Cool! I'm over in Everett and getting ready to work on my 1994 Blue Bird T2000 5.9 Cummins. Much shorter at 28' total but I didn't want a monster to drive around.
Thanks for sharing your hard work. I'm going to be pulling out floors this weekend! WHoo HOoo! And it looks like a weekend full of the usual Seattle rain too.
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Old 02-16-2016, 02:43 AM   #12
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lacey, Wa
Posts: 8
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 36
Seats Are Out!

Ok we got the all the seats out! Now I just have to remove them from the bus and take the metal to the recycle place. Then I can start in on the tearing up the floor. I do have to remove two regular heaters and what looks like an electric heater. Progress seems slow but at least I am making progress. I think I drained the battery. I tried to use a jump box but it was not enough to get the bus to start. The bus has two batteries connected together. So maybe I should try hooking up my truck and jumping the batteries.
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Old 02-16-2016, 03:58 AM   #13
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 694
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Have I seen your bus, parked over in south Everett? I swear I've seen a tc2000 that looked like someone was converting. I'm in lynnwood just south of 128th.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzabus View Post
Very Cool! I'm over in Everett and getting ready to work on my 1994 Blue Bird T2000 5.9 Cummins. Much shorter at 28' total but I didn't want a monster to drive around.
Thanks for sharing your hard work. I'm going to be pulling out floors this weekend! WHoo HOoo! And it looks like a weekend full of the usual Seattle rain too.
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Old 02-16-2016, 04:03 AM   #14
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 694
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Try charging batteries overnight with a smart charger. A good guess is about 1600 CCA to get the engine started.

Take a look at that "electric heater" it might be a booster pump for engine coolant to the front. If you rip the stuff out and make it inop, you will loose your windshield defrosting ability.

As for junking the seats, scrap price for steel is pennies - I advertise free scrap metal on craigslist and always have like 5 people jumping at it and they come get it. (I just leave on curb)

It saves a lot of time, unless you're into that thing which is totally cool.

I sort of wish I had saved a seat or two to make a booth or something but oh well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleMagicGuy View Post
Ok we got the all the seats out! Now I just have to remove them from the bus and take the metal to the recycle place. Then I can start in on the tearing up the floor. I do have to remove two regular heaters and what looks like an electric heater. Progress seems slow but at least I am making progress. I think I drained the battery. I tried to use a jump box but it was not enough to get the bus to start. The bus has two batteries connected together. So maybe I should try hooking up my truck and jumping the batteries.
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Old 02-16-2016, 09:22 AM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsb View Post
Have I seen your bus, parked over in south Everett? I swear I've seen a tc2000 that looked like someone was converting. I'm in lynnwood just south of 128th.
Yes! That's probably me. Over in "Christmas Tree Lane" across from Costco. Cool!!

Boy, have I got some questions for you, Aaronsb!! Storage options, paint shops...stuff like that. I don't want to hijack SeattleMagicGuy's thread though. He's movin' along!!

Thank you for sharing your adventure, SeattleMagicGuy! Fun doing all this work in the cold rain, isn't it? Yuck!
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Old 02-19-2016, 02:50 AM   #16
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lacey, Wa
Posts: 8
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 36
Seats are out and started floor.

Got all the seats out and scrapped them. Got a big $9 from the scrap yard for 18 seats. Today I started tearing up the floor. Glad I listened to you guys. The plywood was soaked and rotten in a lot of places. So far I just tore up the wood from the wheel wells back and it looks like about 80% of that area is covered in rust. I think most is surface rust. Went to Home Depot and got my wheel wire spinning thing to remove the surface rust. There were a few rusty nails and screws that I knocked out still in the floor. How should I patch the holes in the floor before I paint? Thanks for all the ideas and help so far everybody. And a special thanks to aaronsb for your ideas and responses.
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:34 AM   #17
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 694
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Since I was covering the floor with foam insulation, I didn't even worry about filling the bolt holes and nail holes in the floor. They made great drain holes when I washed the floor several times with rust converter.

You need to look for areas that have deep rust or flakes. Go buy a needle scaler from harbor freight, and use it like either a scraper at a steep angle to the work surface, or perpendicular to hammer out and loosen the rust. You basically need to see new or unrusted metal everywhere, or it will keep growing.


Don't use an oil based primer on this metal because it is probably galvanized and you will have problems. If its galvanized, use a water based primer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SeattleMagicGuy View Post
Got all the seats out and scrapped them. Got a big $9 from the scrap yard for 18 seats. Today I started tearing up the floor. Glad I listened to you guys. The plywood was soaked and rotten in a lot of places. So far I just tore up the wood from the wheel wells back and it looks like about 80% of that area is covered in rust. I think most is surface rust. Went to Home Depot and got my wheel wire spinning thing to remove the surface rust. There were a few rusty nails and screws that I knocked out still in the floor. How should I patch the holes in the floor before I paint? Thanks for all the ideas and help so far everybody. And a special thanks to aaronsb for your ideas and responses.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:25 PM   #18
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 56
Year: 1994
Chassis: Blue Bird TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9 12V
Rated Cap: ??...It's 28' long
I understood from some other posts here that Ospho was good to use on the rust after you knocked the loose stuff off.

No?

I just ordered some from Ace in Silver Lake.
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Old 02-22-2016, 12:06 AM   #19
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 694
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 RE
Engine: 8.3l Cummins
Rated Cap: 78
Home depot has lots of stuff. Get the "kleen strip prep and etch" its in a gallon jug and is green. After you have mechanically removed thick rust, wire wheeled, flap disc grind, hammer whatevered the rest, there will still be rust left over. That rust you can then chemically convert. I use a very stiff bristled plastic brush and a bucket with rubber boots and a respirator + tyvek painting suit.

For the 40' bus I applied approximately 3 gallons over the floor and about 1.5 gallons of the stuff in the basement storage over a few days.

I bought an enormous bag of baking soda from cash and carry, which was cheaper than the soda blasting media I usually use.

After the acid has had time to work (8 hours with some heat) I do an initial rinse with hot water and baking soda in a mop bucket mix ratio about 20:1. I'll alternate between that and regular hose water until I don't get any more fizz then just a few more rinses with hose water.

I immediately follow-up with an electric leaf blower to push the rest of the water out and then heater to ensure its dry.

After that process a few times its rust free and ready for a water based primer since the floor was previously galvanized.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzabus View Post
I understood from some other posts here that Ospho was good to use on the rust after you knocked the loose stuff off.

No?

I just ordered some from Ace in Silver Lake.
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Old 03-03-2016, 02:20 AM   #20
New Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Lacey, Wa
Posts: 8
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Amtrans
Chassis: International
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 36
Surprise! Like Rivits Weren't Bad Enough!

Ok seats are all out. 85% of the crappy plywood floor is out. Still have to get around the heaters and such. Rust on the floor was fairly wide spread but most was surface rust with just a few pockets of deeper rust. I ground out all the scaly rust. And today started removing the side panels to get at the insulation but to our surprise other than I hate Rivit removal guess what...the side panels are all spot welded every 1/2 inch to the bottom of the window frame! So we got the first 6 foot piece of interior panel removed only to struggle with the welding. And the insulation was fairly good under three Windows but water was coming inside from the bottoms of the window ledge. So I will have to use some kind of silicone or something to seal each window ledge. I did not see any black mold so that is good. I removed the insulation and noticed when I pressed on the exterior skin from the inside that there was moisture between where they put the calking or sealant. So I am thinking of painting the inside exterior panels before I add insulation. Any thoughts on anything I posted? Any one else experience spot welds by the Windows?
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