...BLUNDERBUS... - Page 2

cheezypsnookle · 11-11-2009, 11:53 AM

had to resize a little to get it to fit

cheezypsnookle · 11-11-2009, 01:03 PM

Here's a great find...

More cleaning (although it has halted until the floor is done)

Hopefully the worst of all the rust

Back half of the floor all pulled up

mouse059 · 11-11-2009, 05:58 PM

Although he seems to have shaved his head.... =D

cheezypsnookle · 11-11-2009, 06:06 PM

smitty i found that first aid kit at my work just a small coincidence.... for 4 years i walked past it never really seeing it
the flange will be cut and replaced with angle iron then patches (big ones) put in to close the gap

to mouse059 ...the guy with the close haircut is a member of the fire troupe im in

...me and a haircut now thats funny

Griff · 11-11-2009, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mouse059

Although he seems to have shaved his head.... =D

I noticed that, too...Hmm-m-m...Perhaps our Fire Troupe Bus Captain tripped with the fire?

What's the skivvy there, CheezyP? Inquiring minds want to know!

...and Smitty's right, get underneath and check & repair as needed - that's what yer building on.

ezbme · 11-11-2009, 09:20 PM

Wow... was that a smoking allowed bus??? That ceiling is nasty... That first aid kit MAY come in handy after the bus gods get ahold of ya!

bikeforthelight · 11-11-2009, 11:23 PM

Mine came with two first aid kits loaded full from the factory still. Never opened as far as I could tell. Also had the triangles in mine too. I am keeping em all but putting them in the storage room to keep the front metal above the window clean looking. keep em around man. that gauze works great. i had to use some already. 25 years and they never touch it. i have the thing 2 months and i am. not fun. haha.

cheezypsnookle · 11-12-2009, 11:40 PM

So some late night working going on (and only one nail in the foot and a few cuts to show for it)...got the rest of the rubber and rotted plywood flooring up. Turn out the rust was worse in the middle than in the back (and not so coincidentally below the shower and toilet's former location). On the other hand today we had scrubbed the floor with a wire brush on a stick and one on the drill and then coated it with purple power rust stop. It worked great, especially after two coats.

A little dark but the view from the front (disrupted by our saved wood bridge)

So much for avoiding a northern bus to skip out on rust, she's a salty sea bitch for sure.

bikeforthelight · 11-13-2009, 12:05 AM

Wow man. I was blessed to not have to deal with that. Keep powering through. Your gonna get to the fun stuff quicker than you know. Im in the fun part now. Its a blast. I hated the crap work, but it goes quick.

Seeria · 11-13-2009, 09:50 AM

EEK that is a lot of rusty rust rust. I'll be buying from a northern fleet so that pic is not the least bit comforting

Diesel Dan · 11-13-2009, 01:02 PM

Oh man! I'm having unpleasant flashbacks of rusty VWs I owned when I lived in New England. My bus was from Kansas, and it looks pretty good from underneath, but I'm afraid of what I will find under that plywood. I think it's the leaky windows, leaky heaters, melting snow from shoes, etc that are the downfall of our floors, more than the snowy/slushy/salty road conditions. They're eaten from the inside out.

I've definitely got some leaky windows here and there. Will caulk everything before installing the new flooring!

cheezypsnookle · 11-13-2009, 04:34 PM

well like we have been saying as a sort of mantra...... cant take her back now

compared to the work i plan on putting into the bus a little (

yes a little) rust is no problem
and i like rivets/patches

C00LR · 11-17-2009, 01:59 PM

Time out for safety!!!!!!!!!!
BEFORE you go under the bus to check on the rusty floor braces..get a ponytail or wrap up your hair, or something!! ESPECIALLY if your going in on a creeper. Long hair and creepers do not mix!!! Been there done that and have regrown the patch of hair that got ripped out.

cheezypsnookle · 11-17-2009, 03:20 PM

we parked blunder in the backyard so no creeper needed(the grass doesnt let the wheels roll well and i have only laid on dog **** once

) i have looked under the bus quite a few times and only found support problems in two places one is the stair well the other is in the back which needs to be redone all the way through

i got an angle grinder and tried to cut out sum of the rust bits an inch to inch and a half around the rust.. but the wheels i got are rubish they dont cut the just make a ditch thats shiny ...... what (besides a plasma torch ) is a good way to cut the metal flooring im thinking its 16 ga but it could be as thin as 20 ga i have seen metal blades for my jigsaw and cutting wheels for my circular saw... are these options
what about a saws all

Sojakai · 11-17-2009, 06:41 PM

I am very curious about those Vibro-blades like the MultiMaster. They claim that they can cut through nails and sheetmetal with little problem and the slightest pressure. The only problem is the cordless ones last for 8-10 minutes per battery and take 30 minutes to recharge, and the MultiMaster is expensive at $400+.

I have been reading some reviews on them: http://www.toolsnob.com/archives/cat...ting_tools.php
Some of the reviews are updated with continued working with the tools.

paul iossi · 11-17-2009, 09:13 PM

after i rolled over my hair with a creeper while trying to muscle a 4speed trans w overdrive into a volvo and help came in the form of a garden hose, i went to the barbershop for lunch, my hair has been high and tight since 1973, well except their isn,t much anymore.

go to your welding or autobody supply and pay for the premium superthin cutoff blades, I've found that the premium price of metabo blades is a deal when you consider that they outlast and outcut cheap blades.