Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 02-02-2017, 02:26 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Boring Gravy

Here it is. First bus. Purchased in Massachusetts Nov '16.
Attached Thumbnails
1.jpg   2.jpg  

BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2017, 02:32 PM   #2
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Seats

I yanked the seats immediately. Couldn't help myself. The grinder did a great job. But to be honest, the cordless Milwaukee reciprocating saw was WAY more convenient. The sides unbolted easily. I had them all pulled in 2 hours. It took far more time to break them down. I traded the metal to a local guy for use of his truck. I knew I would need access to a truck for garbage and materials. It worked out nicely.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2017, 03:08 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Ceiling

So I didn't want to remove the interior skin of the bus. I know this is a topic of debate in different circles. This skin is structural. I wanted to compromise it as little as possible. I decided to form ribs, made out of layered 1/8" plywood (Liquid Nails between each piece). I attached them with Tek screws as close to the internal frame of the existing ceiling as I could. I did not screw them directly into the framing, just into the skin. After the glue cured, the ribs supported my weight easily, without budging a bit. I was very happy. I think it took about 45 minutes to make the ribs, and a few hours to position them, glue them, and screw them. I will attach tongue and groove pine to these ribs.
Attached Thumbnails
3.jpg   4.jpg  
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2017, 04:04 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 492
Year: 2000
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: Your mom +1
looks like a good start
slaughridge85 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 08:28 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Lighting

I am obviously going with all LED lighting. I picked up a set of 10 low-profile recessed LED's for something like $25. They are dim-able. I went crazy and decided I wanted switches at both ends of the bus... and that I wanted the light grouped into 3 or 4 independent sections. Not only that... I wanted dimmers at both ends. Those of you who know electrical... not a simple straight-job one switch wiring scheme. It isn't particularly difficult, but no cake-walk. I installed conduit and boxes EVERYWHERE. I want the ability to upgrade/add services later. I got lucky and found a 200 foot roll of non-stock conduit at home depot. It was hidden way behind some stuff, covered in dust. They charged me as if it was a 100 ft roll of smaller-diameter conduit. I can't remember what it cost, but it was a solid find. A little planning(photo). Wiring went in. YEHAAW... Time to build a floor!
Attached Thumbnails
5.jpg   6.jpg   7.jpg  
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 09:24 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by slaughridge85 View Post
looks like a good start
Thanks! I look forward to whatever engagement I get here.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 12:46 PM   #7
Bus Nut
 
Carytowncat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 932
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Very cool, looks like a fun project. I will follow your lead when i do my ceiling ribs.
Carytowncat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 01:46 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Subfloor

I used furring strips to make floor joists. I, again, used Tek screws and a ton of glue to attach them to the floor. I did not need to grind the seat mounts all the way down. In the beginning, I just used the reciprocating saw to cut them as close as possible. This was nice. Left the screws in... AKA no holes to fill. The plywood is high enough to clear them. So I carefully cut my insulation. You can see in the pic... NO GAPS. I glued that insulation down with some foam-board adhesive (didn't want squeaking in my floor/anywhere). I used some thermal tape and aluminum tape to seal up every edge. My floor and ceiling have a relatively low R-value, so I do not need a draft on top of it. After that I started tossing down and gluing some OSB sheathing. WONDERFUL. Now I have an insulated subfloor!
Attached Thumbnails
8.jpg   9.jpg  
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 02:01 PM   #9
Traveling
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
Great start !

Conduit is nice if you decide to add speakers or more lights. LED's are amazing and dimmable is essential, in my book. They have cheap wireless dimmers so you won't even have to get out of your Lazy Boy.

Look at this bad boy:
2.4G 4-Zone Mi-light Wireless RF Dimmable LED Strip Controller DC 12V-24V Dimmer

I can't vouch for quality (so cheap, I buy 2x), but loaded for features.

Ok, I have to go back under my bus and finish fuel lines....
Rusty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 03:07 PM   #10
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
Make sure you do not permanently cover up any access panels in the floor.

They are there for a reason.

Some of them are there to give access in the only way possible. Without that access jobs that would be readily and easily done in an hour could become an all week job of work.
cowlitzcoach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 03:19 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
Make sure you do not permanently cover up any access panels in the floor.

They are there for a reason.

Some of them are there to give access in the only way possible. Without that access jobs that would be readily and easily done in an hour could become an all week job of work.
I didn't see any panels on the floor. Just the rubber floor and the metal runners in the middle. That is interesting, though.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 03:22 PM   #12
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
There should be at least one access panel above the top of the fuel tank and an access panel in the floor and in the back seat area to access the engine and transmission.
cowlitzcoach is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2017, 01:52 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: S.E. Mass
Posts: 11
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
Hey! I just bought a similar bus. Are you from around MA?
Dryn87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2017, 03:58 PM   #14
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dryn87 View Post
Hey! I just bought a similar bus. Are you from around MA?
Pa... but I picked it up in Mass.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 08:53 AM   #15
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Framing the Driver Wall

Now that the floor is down, I am moving forward with framing the first outside wall. I used furring strips... a ton of them. Ya'll know my pain. I started with 2 double-layers, placed horizontally, the entire length of the bus. One just below the window, and another down by the floor. I filled that space with a few layers of the only insulation I could find rated for external use. I wanted something that could handle a potential beating, being up against the exterior wall. The r-value on this stuff was terrible, though it has the aluminum reflective layer. I put a layer or two alum out, a layer or two alum in. I then started adding vertical studs. Three layers, to be exact. I Then added some horizontal layers to bring it all together. I ended up with a fairly straight wall, without using a level once. I threw in the conduit and wiring for outlets. I then filled the voids with a few layers of R-7.5 foam-board. Every layer of insulation received foil tape on the edges. You can see I chose to close off a few windows entirely, and closed the bottom half of all the rest. I sprayed them with regular enamel spray paint (a soft white). From the outside, It looks like shades are drawn. It came out perfect. All in all, I ended up with around r-20 in the walls. More than enough for me! Note: I did not screw the walls to the edge of the ceiling. I purposefully did this to allow the bus to flex. I also lined up every joint, in framing this is a no-no. I wanted to give the wall a clear place to give and take. At the top of each stud, I shoved a bunch of felt in. This way I wont have to deal with the top squeaking/rubbing against anything. I also didn't attach the wall to the floor in any way. No chance of buckling.
Attached Thumbnails
10.jpg   11.jpg   18.jpg  
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 11:42 AM   #16
Bus Geek
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoringGravy View Post
Pa... but I picked it up in Mass.
Are you the Shippensburg fellow?
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 11:49 AM   #17
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Are you the Shippensburg fellow?
Nope. This is my only online presence for the bus, at the moment.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 11:52 AM   #18
Bus Geek
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoringGravy View Post
Nope. This is my only online presence for the bus, at the moment.
Where at in PA then. Oh by the way, there's a newbie in Shippensburg.
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 11:56 AM   #19
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 52
Year: 2005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Where at in PA then. Oh by the way, there's a newbie in Shippensburg.
Im in the Eastern PA/Southern NY/Northern Jersey area. The Tri-State.
BoringGravy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 11:57 AM   #20
Bus Geek
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoringGravy View Post
Im in the Eastern PA/Southern NY/Northern Jersey area. The Tri-State.
Further east then. The gf lives between Harrisburg and Lancaster. I guess that's still considered central PA.
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.