Brag Bus - Page 2

BRAGeorgia · 01-29-2016, 09:09 PM

Considering different flooring options. Home depot has some traffic master vinyl flooring that comes in 12ft widths. Seems like this would help with spills and such. Don't want to loose too much headroom so was thinking of just gluing the vinyl down onto the body/sheet metal. Any thoughts?

I'm just concerned with condensation building up between the flooring and the sheet metal. Also considering G flooring.

Thanks guys.

JA Savage · 01-29-2016, 10:25 PM

We used Home Depot vinyl flooring (the cheap stuff) and glued it down on our bus and it has lasted over 3 years with no problems. However, we are out west with virtually no humidity, not sure how it would hold up with high humidity.

BRAGeorgia · 01-30-2016, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JA Savage

We used Home Depot vinyl flooring (the cheap stuff) and glued it down on our bus and it has lasted over 3 years with no problems. However, we are out west with virtually no humidity, not sure how it would hold up with high humidity.

Did you use the stuff that comes in wide sheets?

JA Savage · 01-30-2016, 10:49 AM

No we did not try any of the wide sheets. We used some of the planks that look like a wood floor and some of the vinyl squares.

Jolly Roger · 01-30-2016, 01:59 PM

It all depends on where you plan to go? I am at the beach in n.c. And never plan on going anywhere where it is colder than here. I do plan on a trip to texas and back to see family or eventually to the Grand Canyon but if its getting cold I am leaving.
I personally don't like the idea of gluing directly to the original floor.
I used a hard wood floor underlayment and salvaged some bamboo flooring and teak wood flooring. Most of my build is salvaged so I build when I find it? I plan on staying in the southern states. If you are looking at the Northern Territory then you will definitely want insulation on in/on the floor. Unless you plan on heating and skirting under the bus when you stop?

JA Savage · 01-30-2016, 08:18 PM

I think your original post was concerned with condensation. We are out west and have never had a problem with condensation. This may not be true in areas that have a lot of water in the air (humidity). Like Jolly Roger said it depends on where you are and how you use your bus.

BRAGeorgia · 01-30-2016, 11:15 PM

I'm in GA and will use it primarily here. Humid for sure but not concerned with insulation for heat purposes as will be more of a party shuttle but than a sleeper. But when we do sleep in it, Temps are not too cold.

I just want to make sure that rust won't start againow below the vinyl on the aluminum floor.

EastCoastCB · 01-31-2016, 06:18 AM

Aluminum doesn't rust, man.

Tango · 01-31-2016, 10:03 AM

But it does oxidize. And with the wrong conditions, it can be eaten though quicker than steel.

BRAGeorgia · 01-31-2016, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango

But it does oxidize. And with the wrong conditions, it can be eaten though quicker than steel.

Galvanized aluminum corrodes similar to rust I'm told. I thought it looked to rusty to be aluminum but two welders speculated it was galvanized aluminum. I did the magnet test to finally tell it is in fact steel.

Should have trusted my instincts.

Jolly Roger · 01-31-2016, 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRAGeorgia

Galvanized aluminum corrodes similar to rust I'm told. I thought it looked to rusty to be aluminum but two welders speculated it was galvanized aluminum. I did the magnet test to finally tell it is in fact steel.

Should have trusted my instincts.

Galvanized metal is steel and the galvanized is a coating.
If you have a galvanized coating that has been compromised then you have an issue to address properly.
They make a self etching paint for galvanized steel.

EastCoastCB · 01-31-2016, 06:04 PM

Your floor isn't aluminum, man.

BRAGeorgia · 01-31-2016, 06:09 PM

I bought some Etch and Prep to soak the floors in overnight, then some Rustoleum rust inhibitor I am going to paint over the floors. There were a couple bad spots, one by the back door and one near the front, where it rusted all the way through and I am having a welder repair it. Not sure how she is going to do it yet plate or flush but I'll let her figure out that is best.

It was a super pain getting the raised floor that the seat sat on out. Every screw and bolt had to be cut our rather than unbolted/screwed. Then the plate that was over the frame for the raised platform was glued on. Took me forever to figure out what was holding it after I cut out every conceivable bolt that could be holding it in place. Finally a crow bar and some serious pressure led to an un-gluing sound and I figured it out.

I only hope the build out will be less frustrating than the demo of a rust bucket. Last time I buy a bus from NY! But in all honest aside from some spots of rust the thing is in excellent condition. And I'm still getting use out of it pre-renovation.

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EastCoastCB · 01-31-2016, 06:35 PM

Those are definitely steel, my friend.

BRAGeorgia · 02-04-2016, 11:41 PM

I wire brushed the entire floor, cleaned it up, let it soak in prep and etch, then mopped it and painted it all with the pro grade rustoleum professional high performance protective enamel. Hopefully that got rid of my interior rust issues.

Before I put down my plywood sub flooring and vinyl flooring on top of that. Has anyone laid down anything like tyvek home wrap in between the steel floors and the plywood as a condensation layer to help moisture from getting in. I live in Atlanta and insulation is not an issue as winter time usage is less of a concern to me, but humidity is.

Thanks in advance.

BRAGeorgia · 02-04-2016, 11:48 PM

Also drivers seats. My current seat is ripped pretty good and is honestly super uncomfortable after about 30 min of driving and kills my back. Saw the Legacy silver at a trucking store near me for $650 Legacy SILVER. Didn't know if you guys had any good driver seating options or not.

I picked up 12 of these guys brand new for right at $400 a pop for my passangers. Trieste Seat

REDD · 02-05-2016, 02:49 PM

Do you have a big rig wrecking/recycling yard near by? You might get lucky and save yourself a few bucks....

I got mine out of 2007? International ProStar , quite comfy for free.

BRAGeorgia · 06-19-2016, 05:46 PM

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BRAGeorgia · 06-19-2016, 05:46 PM

uploading pictures

BRAGeorgia · 06-19-2016, 06:14 PM

The bus has come a long way since my last post. welded some floor patches, welded mounts for an awesome roof deck, front hitch for a bike rack, rear hitch for pulling things and a much needed step up, new subfloors and flooring, new nice leather seats, couch, new air ride drivers seat, beadboard and trim, and the list goes on.

We've driven several thousand miles, went to the beach in south Georgia, Atlanta to Savannah, North Georgia, Camping, Talladega, concerts, bachelor parties, etc. Been the best investment ever.

I apologize as a lot of these pictures are out of order but you get the general idea.

Next is electrical and I have some questions I will outline in the next post...

Hole in floor that was patched.

Bare steel floor with rustoleum rusty surface primer

Sub floor going in

Flooring installed, Homedepot traffic master $1 per sqft

Flooring installed

Drivers seat riser

passanger seats going in, Suburban Seating Company seats, about $400 a pop x 12, last row facing rear of bus.

Mounting brackets

seat

roof patio install

Front hitch bike rack

Hasp lock install, welded to door