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Old 08-12-2015, 08:50 AM   #131
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replace the bearings, they are embedded with grit from the coolant. use atf or hydraulic fluid to lube the orings, not detergent! and to use the larger turbo would require the ability to turn up the fuel to match. how will you calibrate the fuel requirement? and if you can calibrate correctly, as tango said, you will then have a much more powerful BOOM inside the cylinder which result in a shorter lived engine (maybe MUCH SHORTER) and will also result in more fuel consumption and exhaust gas temps. then there is that pesky spool-up time........
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Old 08-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #132
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Keep in under 2500 rpm and you should be fine.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:31 PM   #133
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Thanks for the great pics.

I would stay with your stock turbo until you get the engine running properly.

Then do a bunch of reading, and swap on the new turbo.

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Old 08-12-2015, 01:46 PM   #134
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Thanks for the advice, y'all. It does make a lot of sense to wait on the turbo until we fix the problem. If I need to get the fuel turned up and calibrated I can get my dad's friend to do it.

I'd like to research the combination of the turbo and this engine, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for. I can find the turbo listed online but nowhere does it list what kind of pressure it puts out. Nor do I know what my original one puts out.

Claydbal, what makes you recommend atf or hydraulic fluid instead of dish soap? (I had wondered how the dish soap gets out of there later without making a mess of everything.) I have heard the dish soap thing from two mechanics so far, and the guy who gave me the turbo has owned his own heavy duty diesel shop for 20 years and worked as a mechanic for over 30.

Dragonpop, what were you saying about the oil control ring? I'm not versed in that part yet.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:06 PM   #135
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The oil control ring is the bottom ring on the piston. It
is made up of two narrow rings with an expander under
or between the thin rings. The proper way to install the
oil ring is to install the expander so the ends butt together
and rings assemble with their end gaps spaced about
45 degrees on each side of the expander gap. Otherwise
the oil has a fairly straight path to get past the rings.
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Old 08-13-2015, 05:06 AM   #136
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detergent contains phosphates or other harsh chemicals that will attatk the rubber. they also contain abrasives. imagine the soap drying on the o-ring as you are pressing the cylinder into the block.......maybe the last guy used detergent??????

atf or hyd. fluid are the norm for any o-ring or seal installation. mechanics know this. ever seen anyone assemble auto transmissions with soap?

concerning the turbo, where will the source of vacuum be to control that waste gate?
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:41 AM   #137
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Last night we cleaned everything up and took a closer look. 4 of the cylinder sleeves have minor cavitation pits that haven't gotten halfway through the cylinder wall yet. Two of those four we are going to replace because the cavitation is in the o-ring groove and is much deeper than the other two. One of the rod bearings has wear down through to copper coloring, and all the rest have babbit wear, so we're going to replace them.

From agkits we'll be spending $367 for the head gasket set, oil pan gasket, two cylinder sleeves with o-rings, and four o-ring sets. The bearings are $22 per rod. Eek. So I contacted DSG Parts in Nevada who has them for $4 per rod. I sent them an email for a quote on the rest, too, so we'll see how that turns out.
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:48 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claydbal View Post

concerning the turbo, where will the source of vacuum be to control that waste gate?
I'm not sure. I'm not versed in anything turbo yet. I did try to track down some specs. Garrett says they've never heard of that PN even though it's their name on the label.

I called a company that is a Garrett turbo distributor to ask questions. That guy said this turbo puts out 40psi and that the head should be able to withstand up to 40psi. He said we can also adjust the wastegate. I haven't looked at it to see how, though.

When my dad heard the 40psi number he said, "You mean 4psi, right?" But the guy definitely said 40. I'm not sure if his info was right or not.
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Old 08-13-2015, 02:24 PM   #139
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Build Thread For Haulin' Oats (and goats)

40psi
If you drive in normal operating range and don't get up and stay over 2500rpm you'll be fine.
Make sure your turbo boots are in good condition and tight. Leaks there will rob power.
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Old 08-18-2015, 12:44 PM   #140
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(I posted this in a thread by itself to let the general skoolie population know.)

I found a company online that had a parts list with no prices. I called for a quote and they said they were wholesale and generally only sold to distributors. But they said they would make an exception for me.

I'm not going to name the company here because they were so nice and helped me out and I don't want to take advantage of that and swamp them with personal orders. BUT if you can locate a wholesaler and contact them, they may work with you.

I ordered
3 cylinder sleeves with o-rings, 10 individual o rings, a head gasket set, 6 connecting rod bearings, 6 piston ring sets, 1 main bearing set, and an oil pan gasket for $353.

The same order at agkits.com would have cost $800 and they don't carry the piston ring sets for my engine, which would have been another $120.
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