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Old 04-19-2019, 07:17 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inhof009 View Post
Edit: the hole in the tank was not originally there. When we pulled it off there was obvious spot where it was leaking, and I was able to gently push a screwdriver into the spot, making that hole.
it's a good thing you checked that out
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Old 04-19-2019, 07:19 AM   #72
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Good to find that tank issue now and not when you're cruising down the road on a trip. Seems like a fairly straightforward repair.....just replace the bad parts with new or good used and you'll be back up and running.
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Old 04-19-2019, 10:25 AM   #73
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Year: 2003
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Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Hey, where can I find the valve for releasing water from the air tanks? I just had my air dryer cartridge replaced, but I don't want to be like the previous owner you're describing.
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:31 AM   #74
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Looks like you are now a bonafied member of the Skoolie Rust Remediation Team!
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Old 04-20-2019, 01:01 AM   #75
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In my opinion, air tanks are air tanks. Short and fat or long and skinny, they have one job to do and that is to hold compressed air. Which you use is up to you, and more to the point, the space you have available. Yes, yes, I know, we could get into long, technical discussions about air reserves and depletion rates, but for our purposes here let's just say to try to maintain at least as much capacity as you previously had, or as close as you can. And yes, you'll want to retain the three tank/compartment separation.


You can put in auto drain valves (and I personally endorse this route) but the manual ones do almost as well - *If you actually use them!*


While I'm at it, now would be a good time to add a port for an air hose to inflate tires and run air tools, but be sure to use D.O.T. rated plumbing as you don't want a rupture while going down the road. You can install a valve (that stays shut while driving) for an extra measure of safety, and downstream of that it becomes less critical what you use for plumbing.
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:55 AM   #76
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Norfolk, VA
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Integrated CE S
Engine: DT466
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgorila1 View Post
Good to find that tank issue now and not when you're cruising down the road on a trip. Seems like a fairly straightforward repair.....just replace the bad parts with new or good used and you'll be back up and running.
My thoughts exactly. Fortunately, air tank exploding on the road just means an abrupt stop, instead of hydraulic failure. But if I can keep from having an air tank go explode-y on me, I'll be happier.

Spent the weekend searching, and I can honestly say I haven't found an equivalent air tank, new or used. I don't know what I'm doing wrong, but I cannot find one for the life of me. I've got a "used vehicle inspection" on Wednesday, so I'll chat with the guys there to see where I can get one and price it out. That is, if I can figure out how to get the bus there...
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:56 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Hey, where can I find the valve for releasing water from the air tanks? I just had my air dryer cartridge replaced, but I don't want to be like the previous owner you're describing.
If you've got the same bus (2003 International), you'll find the bleed valve at the bottom of your air tank, which for me was just in front of the left rear wheel, near the muffler. If you can't find it, just follow some air lines from your dryer, and you'll find a big tank.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:24 AM   #78
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Norfolk, VA
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Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Integrated CE S
Engine: DT466
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad_SwiftFur View Post
In my opinion, air tanks are air tanks. Short and fat or long and skinny, they have one job to do and that is to hold compressed air. Which you use is up to you, and more to the point, the space you have available. Yes, yes, I know, we could get into long, technical discussions about air reserves and depletion rates, but for our purposes here let's just say to try to maintain at least as much capacity as you previously had, or as close as you can. And yes, you'll want to retain the three tank/compartment separation.


You can put in auto drain valves (and I personally endorse this route) but the manual ones do almost as well - *If you actually use them!*


While I'm at it, now would be a good time to add a port for an air hose to inflate tires and run air tools, but be sure to use D.O.T. rated plumbing as you don't want a rupture while going down the road. You can install a valve (that stays shut while driving) for an extra measure of safety, and downstream of that it becomes less critical what you use for plumbing.
I've been having a really hard time trying to find a compartmentalized tank that even has similar plumbing to what I've got on my bus currently. Do you have any suggestions of where to look to find new/used tank for my bus? I'm hoping to not have to re-plumb, but at the end of the day, any tank is better than no tank.

If I get a new or used tank without attachments, I'm going to get cord pull valves, and actually use them. I will also add a port for air hose attachment. Being able to inflate tires on the road will be very useful in a pinch.
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Old 04-22-2019, 09:00 AM   #79
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Search “Truck air tanks for sale” on Google. Just did a quick search and a bunch showed up in the results.
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Old 04-28-2019, 07:20 PM   #80
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Year: 2003
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Engine: DT466
Updates, a lot of good things have happened!

As for the air tank, the dealer was pricing stuff around $500-700, yikes. Fortunately, a local junkyard finally got back to me and said "we have buses, but no idea if they have the tank you need". First bus I looked at in their yard had the tank I need. Grabbed the tank and brackets for $75, and it's holding pressure really well!

Took it to the mechanic over the week because I didn't want to drop several thousands of dollars into the interior if I needed to replace something expensive in the engine/transmission. Mechanics said it's in good condition, which is good to hear! It did fail the state inspection due to the holes in the floor by the wheel well, but it's likely going to remain in the backyard until it's fully built at this time.

We finally finished pulling out the floor and scraped off the rust with a wire brush cup attachment on my grinder. Put down some converter and painted the primer today. This is how it looks now:


And after we pulled the floor all of the way up:



We also clipped off the top of the wheel wells. We've got about 9" of clearance as it is, but the stops are at 2". So we're shaving it down to 3" to give our interior more room and keep the clearance. Going to remove the interior panels this upcoming week/weekend, and use those to build metal boxes to close in the wheel wells with square corners and less space wasted, and we'll use the other panels to patch the rust holes, which are surprisingly few!

I'm considering going back to the junk yard to grab an air ride seat that we can install to be my wife's captain's chair, but if we're going to do that we're going to need to add a swivel. A sure would like a swivel on my seat as well, if it stays locked while driving...
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