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Old 10-17-2005, 10:26 PM   #61
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I pretty much went through the same drill as Eric on the floor... but no strips. I just drilled through the wood and the floor, countersunk the hole in the wood, threw some caulk in the hole and finished her up with a stainless steel sheet metal screw... for rust purposes. Floor hasn't popped up yet.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:40 PM   #62
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Betcha thought...

I'd fallen off the bus (sort of speak). Nope! Been busy w/ school and trying to sell my horse while keeping up w/ her training. Sigh. Don't have the money or time to enforce that training either. Next horse I get will be push button.

Anyway, I digress! The floor. My nightmare for over 8 months is complete. I'm only putting down the new wood (sealed on one side w/ Thompsons water sealer) and will patch up the remaining screw holes once the plywood is down. YEAH! Damn, that sucked. Plus I have now have some electrical drain which drains the battery if I don't start it every day. Right now, she's deader than a door nail so I said screw it until I've gotten all the wiring capped off.
Now what to do about that wiring.....? I know I can't use the stopsign connection so I'm going to take that out. No need for the heater buttons so gone are they. Still don't know how I'm gonna get my flashers and other lights working again. I'm gonna make them work SOME how!
I do plain on utilizing the bus's old inside light wires for house lights plus a driver's light which I kinda miss. Other than that, as far as lighting goes, a couple of sky lights will do for daytime. I have these stick on lights that work from batteries which will work for lighting just small areas. This only leaves me to wire for plugs which....I've no idea how to do but I shall figure out. Do you think a basic wiring book would be helpful or do I need something more geared to the conversionist?

So I am basically ready to order the flooring which will be a natural linoleum w/ cork underside. I also discovered that I can put some insulation in so I'm aimming for Ultratouch made from recycled demin/cotton scraps. Its nice and slim for that metal wall on both sides does not require any special clothing to install-very cool . Someone is looking into new tires for me but I was thinking of something more backroads ready so we'll have to chat.

Lowes has these interesting bathroom cabinets which in my mind would make great kitchen cabinets w/o the expense plus they happen to only be 18in in dept. I already have a countertop so I won't need the sink that comes with the package. Its too heavy anyway...

Until some $$ rolls in, the appliances are on hold, especially the fridge; while the used stoves aren't expensive those fridges even used are! Yikes!

So that's it for now. Comments? Laughter? Volunteers? LOL, just kidding
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Old 11-27-2005, 07:55 PM   #63
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El cheapo suggestions:

I got a new 3-burner range (upgrade replaced it) at an RV dealer for $50. I got a $20 folding camp stove to go on top of it for a stove. Works fine.

Did I mention that it's not hard to live without refrigeration.....
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:19 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric von Kleist
El cheapo suggestions:

I got a new 3-burner range (upgrade replaced it) at an RV dealer for $50. I got a $20 folding camp stove to go on top of it for a stove. Works fine.

Did I mention that it's not hard to live without refrigeration.....
Yes you did but I do not plan on having this huge monster like the cookie cutter rvs do. Just something, ya know. I am sure I could do better w/ the stove business. I do have one I purchased from the RV place though its as old as hell (25+ yrs maybe). It might even work still but I don't know....yet. I only paid $30 bucks for it (a truck camper stove) so...eh.

Hey Eric how slow is this drill a hole business anyway? Took me 1/2 an hour just to make one hole and its not in the right place LOL! Next time I'll have to measure between the holes and such to make sure the screw is accessable not in some invisible place.
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Old 11-28-2005, 06:53 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pangaia
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric von Kleist
El cheapo suggestions:

I got a new 3-burner range (upgrade replaced it) at an RV dealer for $50. I got a $20 folding camp stove to go on top of it for a stove. Works fine.

Did I mention that it's not hard to live without refrigeration.....

Hey Eric how slow is this drill a hole business anyway? Took me 1/2 an hour just to make one hole and its not in the right place LOL! Next time I'll have to measure between the holes and such to make sure the screw is accessable not in some invisible place.
Not sure what drilling you are talking about. The furring strips for the floor? I used 1/8" TiN (Titanium Nitride coated) bits and regular HSS (High Speed Steel) bits for the screws holding the floor down. That just took seconds (the TiN bits last longer). If you're talking about drilling holes in the floor for plumbing, I didn't drill those. Well, I drilled a 1/2" starter hole with a bit, and then I stuck a jigsaw blade through the hole and used a jigsaw to cut it out....not always pretty....my holes ended up square and oversized, but I made plywood plates with nice round pipe-sized holes to go over them, inside and out, and sealed those with caulk to keep water out.

When I drilled holes in the bumper for the bolt-on trailer hitch, that took a few minutes for each hole, and I used oil and a very slow speed.

If it's taking you 1/2 hour to drill the 1/8" holes....your drill is turning in reverse!
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Old 11-28-2005, 11:48 PM   #66
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My mother in law once gave me some drill bits from some cheap store. These were the worst excuse for bits I have ever used. They would not drill a hole in steel or even aluminum. I could drill 4 holes in oak boards and then they got dull and would just make smoke.
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Old 11-29-2005, 11:08 AM   #67
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" I could drill 4 holes in oak boards and then they got dull and would just make smoke."

I have a set of those around here someplace
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Old 11-30-2005, 12:20 PM   #68
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Drilling holes; RV appliances (buying): wiring

Buy good new drill bits, and run them at a lower speed. Too many folks think that going faster makes the drill cut faster...NOT!
HSS (high speed steel), cobalt, or TiN coated HSS do well enough.
BTW, HSS refers to the drill bit metal itself, NOT the speed at which you drill the holes!

Slower is better! BTW, rusty metal dulls drill bits faster than clean metal will. If you can, wire brush or grind/sand off some of the surface rust before drilling.

If the drill bit is dull either have it sharpened or just buy another bunch of them...they ARE essentially disposable, after all.
Trying to drill with a dull bit will just HARDEN the metal, and make it difficult if not impossible to drill out.

Remember: slower speed, high pressure, watch you don't break the bit!

Large round holes:
I use a hole saw (I have several sizes I use in my handyman biz), and make sure it's a bi-metal one made to cut metal. Essentially a very large bit that cuts out a circle.
Use VERY slow drilling speed (I use a 1/2 inch electric drill), LOTS of pressure, and a bit of cutting oil does the job. Deburr the cut (sharp!) edges afterwards, clean off the oil, prime and paint to reduce rusting problems.

Drilling holes and making them larger:
Start small! Then use gradually larger bits, and take your time.
This process is called "step drilling".

If you're trying to use old floor holes for attaching the ply, maybe get under the bus and drill UP!?!? through the old holes. Use GOOD eye protection, and have someone nearby to take you to the emergency room when a chip gets in your eye.

Appliances:
Go to boneyards!!!! I've purchased small RV fridges for $20, larger for $50-100. RV stoves for $20. Water heaters for $20. Rooftop AC units for $50.
Caveat: buy with a promise to refund your $$ if it doesn't work, OR fire it up on propane/electric/whatever at the boneyard before hauling it away.
I use a 20 pound bottle with a gas grill regulator to try out propane appliances; mounted on a handtruck it's easy to transport everything around in the yard. Works like a charm.
Bought a 19 foot RV awning with a good cover for $100, new they're $500 and UP.
Salvage a bunch of stuff from the same RV and maybe the guy will give you a better deal. Remember the fresh water tank(s), water pump(s), charging system(s), etc. Lots of stuff gets crushed instead of reused......

Look around. Find ALL of the boneyards in your area. Go back to 'yards, they get 'new' stuff all the time.
And negotiate prices: just don't be a dick about it. Be reasonable!

Call local body shops, tow companies and insurance places, maybe they know of an RV that got wrecked and they will sell for short $$ to recoup some dough.

Wiring:
use "SO"-type electrical cord, that's heavy extension cord to y'all!
NEVER use solid wire; use ONLY stranded wire! It remains flexible when our buses vibrate and shake. Solid wire fatigues and breaks.
A licensed electrician buddy told me to use "SO" and tin/solder all wire ends for better trouble-free connections. Use Rosin-core solder only, as acid-core solder will just eat the wire connections over time.

ALWAYS attach the green or bare ground wire to the bus chassis as a ground for electrical safety when using 120VAC/240VAC systems.

Look over the Index here for conversion techniques for a "sticky" on bus wiring, plumbing etc.
Spend some time looking around, don't be lazy, OK? Lots of info already here SOMEWHERE.
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Old 12-01-2005, 12:15 AM   #69
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I hear ya about good bits. When my wifes great uncle passed I got to have everything out of his shop. I got some real nice drill bits of a varity of sizes. I have used them for years now and they are still as sharp as when I got them. My mother-in-law means well but the cheap junk she gives aint worth a ship.

Another place cheap stuff can be found is building supply thrift stores. When we had our house I found 10 sheets of 1/2" drywall for $2 each at a building thrift store.
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:49 AM   #70
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Re: Drilling holes; RV appliances (buying): wiring

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Grimm
Remember: slower speed, high pressure, watch you don't break the bit!

.
Or your wrist! Especially during that moment just before the bit breaks through the material, it seems to want to bind, twisting the drill rather violently sometimes.
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