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Old 01-02-2017, 11:28 AM   #21
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I would agree on not drilling out the lock.

IIRC, there are only four or five different key cuts that will fit that lock set. Every bus OEM uses the same lock sets which makes it easy for owners to spe'c locks that have a common key. The locks are not for security so much as to keep honest people honest. A determined thief isn't going to be slowed down very much by those locks.
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Old 01-02-2017, 03:14 PM   #22
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Hey Rameses! I wondered where you disappeared to.

You're right....Impact driver. Duh. Thanks for correcting me. Once I got an adapter, an extension, and a universal joint, the bolts were easy peasy.

I have the keys for the locks, but they look like they've been intentionally damaged. It looks like someone took a center punch or something to the middle of each of them.



The key will go in (with tons of force--like the first time, I tapped it in with a mallet), but won't turn. The whole assembly (not just the cylinder) turns a little bit, but nothing else. I've given it several good shots of WD40 Penetrator, and no luck. There's only one of the keyholes I've even been able to get a key into. This is on all five of the cargo compartments, plus another locked rear compartment that I have no idea what it's for. Short of paying a locksmith $120 to come out, I'm not sure what else to do besides drilling the locks out. I'm open to suggestions!
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Old 01-02-2017, 06:24 PM   #23
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Day 3-4

Well, the seats are gone! And that's it. The seats are gone. Gotta start somewhere, right? Ugh, the FILTH the little monsters leave behind, though. Probably no working for a few days, but I'll start on the floor as I have time.

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Old 01-02-2017, 08:40 PM   #24
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The lock looks to be in pretty typical condition. The little spring loaded "door" that is supposed to keep moisture and gunk out of the key way is pretty whimpy in design. I have rarely seen locks like that which really closed up once the key was removed. Even if you teased it with the key they rarely ever closed all the way up.

IIRC those lock sets are only about $8.00-$12.00 per lock and are available just about anywhere including Ace Hardware.

If the locks continue to be a problem I would drill them out and replace them for no more than what they cost to replace--your time is worth more than spending just a few minutes on each lock.

I have found that using Brake Kleen or starting fluid can clean everything out. If you then follow up with PB Blaster or WD40 you can get things lubed up and working again.
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Old 01-02-2017, 08:49 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach View Post
IIRC those lock sets are only about $8.00-$12.00 per lock and are available just about anywhere including Ace Hardware.

If the locks continue to be a problem I would drill them out and replace them for no more than what they cost to replace--your time is worth more than spending just a few minutes on each lock.
They're enough of a problem I can't get into my cargo boxes. I think they should be easy to replace, overall. Unfortunately, I can't see the inside to know what I'm dealing with (as far as getting a replacement) until I bite the bullet and drill one out. I don't need them to lock right now, so hopefully it won't be the end of the world if I drill one and then find out they're a nightmare to replace. I also have a feeling that "just drilling it out" won't be as easy as it sounds. I have wimpy girl arms/hands, and I am not sure my 12v cordless drill will be up to the challenge. I did buy some cobalt drill bits specifically for this little project.... Only one way to find out! Maybe next weekend.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:06 PM   #26
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I think I'd try drilling out the rivets holding the latch assembly in place first.

Once the latch is free, you'll probably find a couple of very thin cables on the back side hooked to a mechanism that pulls on them when the handle is lifted. (I'll take a picture of the ones on my cargo doors for you tomorrow.) Once those cables are unhooked, the entire handle assembly should be free to put on a workbench or table and figure out how to take the lock out without drilling it. Go ahead and put the handle assembly back in with new rivets, and then install new locks into the handles whenever you have a chance.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:09 PM   #27
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I think I'd try drilling out the rivets holding the latch assembly in place first.

Once the latch is free, you'll probably find a couple of very thin cables on the back side hooked to a mechanism that pulls on them when the handle is lifted. (I'll take a picture of the ones on my cargo doors for you tomorrow.) Once those cables are unhooked, the entire handle assembly should be free to put on a workbench or table and figure out how to take the lock out without drilling it. Go ahead and put the handle assembly back in with new rivets, and then install new locks into the handles whenever you have a chance.
Not a bad idea. I may have to replace at least one of the handle assemblies entirely, due to rust. Pics would be appreciated of yours, when you have time.

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Old 01-02-2017, 10:06 PM   #28
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And isn't it amazing how big it feels inside the bus after all of the seats are out??
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:07 AM   #29
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And isn't it amazing how big it feels inside the bus after all of the seats are out??
It's awesome! It's amazing what a huge difference it makes. I stayed up waaaaaaaaaaay too late last night messing around with floor plans. lol
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Old 01-03-2017, 11:52 AM   #30
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Okay, picture time.

First is a pic of the outside of one of my handle assemblies. It's also a Cleveland, like yours. Looks like the exact same handle except yours is installed with pop rivets, which should be considerably easier to drill out.





Next is the inside view with the handle in the "default" position. This's picture's with the door flipped up, so the mechanism is upside down now, and the handle on the backside of what you're looking at now has it's hinge on the bottom.





Now the same thing, but with the handle pulled to the "open" position.





You can see that the bolt the clamps the cable in place is pushed about 1/2" when the handle is pulled, pulling the two sides of the cable around the rollers on the outside of the assembly.
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