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Old 01-03-2017, 01:02 PM   #31
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
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Year: 2002
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All American
Engine: Cummins 8.3/Allison MD3060
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I decided to break this up into a couple posts since I've been having a problem with my phone's browser crashing recently. Would hate to lose a bunch of picture links and have to start over.


Okay, now a shot from farther back. You can see how the cable transfers the pull to a latch on the side of the door. (There's another one on the far side just like it.) The latches are spring loaded so that when the handle is released they return to the "latched" position on their own, and maintain tension on the cable to keep everything where it belongs.





Next, I realized that the backside of the lock doesn't protrude through the backside of the handle assembly. Thus, even with the handle out, you wouldn't be able to get to the lock to disassemble it. But because of the nature of the cable and latch system, once the rivets are drilled out, it should be possible to pull out on the entire handle assembly, which will pull on both sides of the cable, pull the latches and open the door.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:14 PM   #32
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Now, once the door is open, the bolts can be pulled that hold the ends of the cable to the latches. Then the handle assembly and cable will be free to come out of the door. Here's a look at the backside of the lock. You can see that it isn't possible to remove the lock without having the handle either in the open position or removed from the rest of the assembly.





Taking the handle off of the assembly shouldn't be too difficult though. It's held in by a pin with a spring clip on one end.

Pull the spring clip...





And then pull the pin out from the other side...





At that point, the handle should pull out of the frame even though the lock is still locked, and you can then pull the nut off the back side of the lock, install a new lock, and reassemble everything.

Hope that helps!
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:46 PM   #33
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Engine: DT466E
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rameses View Post

At that point, the handle should pull out of the frame even though the lock is still locked, and you can then pull the nut off the back side of the lock, install a new lock, and reassemble everything.

Hope that helps!
Holy cow...Super helpful! Thanks Rameses. Seems like that's going to be the best way to go about it overall, especially since I have to replace one of the latch assemblies anyway. It also looks like even if I do drill out the lock itself, I may not be able to get it to unlatch, depending.

Again, thanks so much!
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Old 01-03-2017, 07:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzzWantsABus View Post
Holy cow...Super helpful! Thanks Rameses. Seems like that's going to be the best way to go about it overall, especially since I have to replace one of the latch assemblies anyway. It also looks like even if I do drill out the lock itself, I may not be able to get it to unlatch, depending.

Again, thanks so much!
Glad I could help!

I'll be watching to see how it works out for you.

Oh, and I forgot to mention... If you notice in the last couple pics, it looks like there's some sealants between the handle assembly and the door skin. Even after the rivets are drilled out, it'll probably take some serious prying with a bar or a big screwdriver to peel the two pieces of metal apart with that sealant between them.
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:47 PM   #35
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Join Date: Sep 2016
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Engine: DT466E
Well, since it's been a wee bit chilly here the last couple of days, not much has happened. So I thought I'd sit down and start a list of what's really important to me about my bus build, so that I can start to strategize and plan accordingly. If I don't know what I really want/need/don't want, how do I build what I really need? I'm definitely going to raise the roof, and after that.........Who knows? This list is by no means exhaustive, and will change plenty, I'm sure. Stuff with a "?" I'm not sure about, or don't think is as important. I welcome suggestions and feedback!

Things that are important in the bus

-Hidden litterbox w/vent or fan
-Must feel open and not crowded
-Modular spaces (able to use for several different functions with minimal changes)
-Built in travel cages for dog and cats?
-REAL shower that doesn't feel cramped (maybe with a bit higher sides so that there is a basin in the bottom)
-Some sort of air filtration system to help with allergies from stuff outside and pets inside
-Plenty of counter space & full sized kitchen sink (no sink in bathroom)
-Windows either: Lots of them above head height, or fewer, bigger, at regular height. All windows must blackout completely.
-Completely walled off driving area (Maybe door? Maybe not?)
-Storage area inside rear e-exit?
-Would be nice to run off of solar, generator, or shore power. Solar is most optional.
-Some sort of air conditioning both for living space and for driver's area. A/C in living space must be full time for pets.
-Some sort of heating for both living space and for driver's area. Heat in living space must be at least tolerable full time for pets.
-Built in computer would be COOL.
-Backup camera
-4 season water system (either insulated, or inside)
-Towing for trailer
-Some sort of modular outdoor pet containment system?
-Awning?
-Would be nice to run everything (stove, fridge, generator) off of diesel, or off of propane, instead of having to have both
-Second gas tank
-Flooring that is durable, easy to clean, and feels warm. Different kinds?-industrial carpet tiles in bedroom area, laminate elsewhere?
-Limited horizontal surfaces for dirt/dust to gather on for ease of cleaning
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:06 AM   #36
Skoolie
 
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Chassis: TC 2000 bluebird
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I had the same problem with my left rear cargo compartment. I removed the center latch but the slide latches at both sides were rusted tight and would not move. I pulled on the cables so hard the cable broke, still no luck.

The solution was the bracket bolted to the side of the cargo compartment. Look at the outside end of the cargo compArtment and you should see two bolts thAt hold the small bracket on, inside the box, that the end latches slide behind to hold the door shut. Just grind the heads of the bolts off and the bracket will fall off inside the box and the door should open right up.

Bill
Michigan
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:10 AM   #37
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
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Originally Posted by miltruckman View Post
I had the same problem with my left rear cargo compartment. I removed the center latch but the slide latches at both sides were rusted tight and would not move. I pulled on the cables so hard the cable broke, still no luck.

The solution was the bracket bolted to the side of the cargo compartment. Look at the outside end of the cargo compArtment and you should see two bolts thAt hold the small bracket on, inside the box, that the end latches slide behind to hold the door shut. Just grind the heads of the bolts off and the bracket will fall off inside the box and the door should open right up.

Michigan
Brilliant!! I will look and see....Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:28 PM   #38
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Engine: DT466E
Day 5

Well, this went a lot quicker than I expected. I only had to go to the hardware store once (killed my screwdriver bit). WD40 Penetrator is amazing stuff!

Lots of surface rust, but nothing that looks penetrating. No holes at the wheel wells (yippee!!)

The flooring was just linoleum over the metal floor, so once I got all of the metal strips off of the edges and off of the middle, plus the metal shrouds for the heater pipes, it came up like nothing. Now I have to figure out what to do with the giant pile of linoleum in my yard......



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Old 01-11-2017, 09:58 PM   #39
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Year: 1992
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Chassis: GM "B" Platform
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That floor looks really solid, maybe the boxes helped protect it?
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:34 AM   #40
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Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 7,267
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
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Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Looks like it needs some Ospho.
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