Buster

[ezbme]

Oh yea, one more thing... The rear heater in the bus... I thought it would be an electric heater but noooo... It has what looks like coolant lines hooked up to it. How can I remove this heater? Where do these lines come from & how can I disconnect them without messing anything up??? DO I have to cap them?

[Bus Project]

I had the same issue with our bus.

Here is what I did: http://busconversionproject.blogspot...oval-more.html

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by Bus Project

I had the same issue with our bus.

Here is what I did: http://busconversionproject.blogspot...oval-more.html

I had a feeling I may be able to just loop it & ours is a rear engine so I could probably do the loop right where the heater is as it is so close to the engine. Thanks for the info & the photos... now I have to get the energy & desire to do the nasty job... antifreeze does suck to work with!

[ezbme]

Thanks all for looking at the photos to see if it is a turbo...

I love the transit windows & they will be so easy to remove & wil look great when some are skinned over! Has anyone seen any photos of another Thomas Transit Liner, converted or not?? I am having a heck of a time trying to find another bus like mine & would love to see a conversion of already done?

[tfdfyrman]

Did you get my reply to your PM? Get me a pic of the top rear of your engine. Back by the bellhousing. That is where your Turbo is if you have one.

Chad

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by tfdfyrman

Did you get my reply to your PM? Get me a pic of the top rear of your engine. Back by the bellhousing. That is where your Turbo is if you have one.

Chad

Well looky there... I believe I DO have a turbo diesel! (so hard to photograph much less see!) What is the difference in the HP if it is a turbo?...

Jonathan

[tfdfyrman]

Thar She Blows!!! should be 250hp I think. Don't no what the TQ rating is. Hopefully 600lbs or more. That is were you will get your fuel economy from. The easier that engine can push that bus, the easier it works, the less fuel it uses.

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by tfdfyrman

Thar She Blows!!! should be 250hp I think. Don't no what the TQ rating is. Hopefully 600lbs or more. That is were you will get your fuel economy from. The easier that engine can push that bus, the easier it works, the less fuel it uses.

Very ccol & the fuel economy is definately a bonus! I learn something everyday... Appreciate the help Chad!

[tfdfyrman]

Man you threw me off with the title change. I saw that and thought, dang, a new build since last night and it is already 3 pages long.

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by tfdfyrman

Man you threw me off with the title change. I saw that and thought, dang, a new build since last night and it is already 3 pages long.

LOL!
Yea my wife & I decided we needed a name for the beast & Buster just popped up. I figure others may have the same name but we like it!

[RyanS]

Nice looking bus.

Great work so far.

When you remove the heater, since the lines appear to run under the bus, the easy way out in my opinion would be to just hook them together under the bus in a loop, assuming the hoses are out in the open under there- which gives me an idea- I will post in the discussion section.

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by RyanS

Nice looking bus.

Great work so far.

When you remove the heater, since the lines appear to run under the bus, the easy way out in my opinion would be to just hook them together under the bus in a loop, assuming the hoses are out in the open under there- which gives me an idea- I will post in the discussion section.

I read your post after reading case's similiar post. I think I will just take a look underneath to see how it is hooked up & hopefully make a simple loop. Thanks!

[ezbme]

Well I got out to the bus again yesterday to put together & install the warehouse shelves. Not quite the conversion everyone else is doing but this is all temporary. I figured it was best I mount the shelves top & bottom as they will have a lot of weight on them. They are so solid I can kinda rock the bus when pulling & pushing on them (I don't quite weigh enough)... Should work fine!





I am putting a section of wood shelves over the wheelwell as the metal shelves don't span over it.

[TygerCub]

Ya know... those aren't half bad. And the fact they fit perfectly within the width of the wheel well is a bonus.

I'd say, what the heck! If they serve your purpose, just skin the windows behind them, add some nice insulation, then put a nice wood veneer over the front, hang some nice doors, and walla! Instant cabinets that are way stronger than the average! The bonus feature is the framework already has holes in it to accept screw/bolts, so you will have multiple options to create odd sized spaces that fit your specific application perfectly.

[ezbme]

Originally Posted by TygerCub

Ya know... those aren't half bad. And the fact they fit perfectly within the width of the wheel well is a bonus.

yea, they do fit well!

I'd say, what the heck! If they serve your purpose, just skin the windows behind them, add some nice insulation, then put a nice wood veneer over the front, hang some nice doors, and walla! Instant cabinets that are way stronger than the average! The bonus feature is the framework already has holes in it to accept screw/bolts, so you will have multiple options to create odd sized spaces that fit your specific application perfectly.

That is not a bad idea! I was only thinking about the current use (to help us move 2K miles & to store our inventory till we get a building built at our new place). I think I will incorporate them into the conversion in the future!

[ezbme]

Question... My fuel gauge is stuck above full when I turn on the ignition or start the bus... Is this a sign that the sending unit is shot? The tank is not full either...

[rjz5400]

i pulled my level sending unit from inside the bus. the access panel has a lot of screws the i just disconnected the leads and three screws later the sender tube/float was in my hand. it may get turned around inside there and wedged against the wall of the tank. it also may be a bare wire causing the sender to "ground" or whatever and send a full reading.
i bet if you open it up you can figure it out. but it is intimidating

[Nachtwulf]

Originally Posted by ezbme

Question... My fuel gauge is stuck above full when I turn on the ignition or start the bus... Is this a sign that the sending unit is shot? The tank is not full either...

There is another possibility you might want to consider. Most of the sending units work by acting as a variable resistor (rheostat) between the fuel gauge (where it gets the power) and ground. Which means that one of the first checks to run would be to take the wire loose from the fuel sending unit at the tank, power up the bus (ignition on), and see if you still read a full tank. If so, there is a very good possibility that you have a short to ground in the wire going to the fuel sending unit. You may be able to find this, but probably would be better to run a new wire. It helps if you have wiring schematics for your particular system, in case they do something funky with your sending unit. I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Lee

[ezbme]

Thanks to all that have piped in about the sending unit... I will try what you'all suggested & see what happens!

We we got a generator today. Traded off our king palm tree inventory for a new in the box 10hp Brigss generator (can't take palms to New Mexico)! It has been in the box for about 2 years & it started on the first pull!!! This will come in handy for charging our battery bank at the cabin on overcast & rainy days & of course to run any tools. I love bartering!!!

Well yesterday I got all the shelves tied down & mounted solid! It is a good feeling to finally finish something. I also removed the spit shield behind the drivers seat along with many of the stainless posts throughout the bus. So much cleaner looking now!
Next is the front door... My father in law came today for a week & wants to help with the bus & we are going to see if we can combine the double doors into one.

Forgot to add photos:

[ezbme]

Oh yea... our new porta-toidy courtesy of ebay for $16.00!