Canadian Skoolie Project - Page 10

jkindt · 04-03-2011, 12:12 PM

I am planning to drop the drain pipe from the shower through the bus floor and just cap it with a screw on cap for now. This way I could just put a bucket under the pipe if I wanted to use it before I get a holding tank mounted. The trap will have to go under the bus due to clearance issues. I was thinking of using 1 1/4" pipe to save some space. I also plan to just install a city water connection for now, until I can get a freshwater tank, pump, etc. I will run all the pex pipe, but will just cap the pipes where the future connections will go. I have to do this build in stages, and the back half is this years project. Next year I get to do the front half which includes the fresh water tank, furnace, and stove.

Diesel Dan · 04-04-2011, 01:26 PM

Glad to see you're back jkindt! Your camping pics were an early inspiration for me to phase my bus project in such a way that I could start using it even though it's not finished. So I will probably phase my plumbing as well, and am following your plumbing story with interest!

gbstewart · 04-04-2011, 06:42 PM

looking good, that shower pan looks like the same one I got, I should be installing in a week or so, did you get yours from Icon Direct out of winkler manatoba?, I got mine from there as well as my holding tanks
keep up the good work

gbstewart

jkindt · 04-04-2011, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbstewart

...did you get yours from Icon Direct out of winkler manitoba...

No, I got my shower pan from some guy who saw me working on my bus and pulled up with it in the back of his truck. Paid $30 for it. That is also how I got my furnace and stove/oven, guy pulled up and sold them to me on the spot.

lornaschinske · 04-05-2011, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkindt

... I got my shower pan from some guy who saw me working on my bus and pulled up with it in the back of his truck. Paid $30 for it. That is also how I got my furnace and stove/oven, guy pulled up and sold them to me on the spot.

I think I need to park next to you! On the up side, some guy offered to give us a 32X32 shower pan for free... after we had already bought one! Too bad there's no conversions near us, we would have taken it and given it to someone, for free of course.

Stuff · 04-06-2011, 10:43 AM

lol roadside sales ftw!!

also didnt know there was a direct seller out of winkler. im like 2-3 hours from there

jkindt · 04-06-2011, 05:49 PM

While measuring things and trying to calculate how to put up some framing for walls and such, I had a thought. (ouch!) What would I do if I had to replace a broken window that had its frame covered by a wall? I know a lot of you are building your interiors to cover the bottom half of the windows, the edge of the window frame, or other such layouts. The windows in my bus are removed from the inside, and if I don't allow room for these to be removed I would be in big trouble if one got broken. So the only thing that I can come up with is that I can't leave the window in the bathroom. I will have to make another window panel like I did on various other windows and block them all out. I will then have to install yet another roof vent in order to provide some light to the room and provide a way to vent out the inevitable bathroom aroma. I am going to risk the back window and leave it in place because I think I could replace it from outside if need be, or just cut some steel sheet and cover it in from the outside if it came to that. Just some random thoughts...

pipopak · 04-06-2011, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkindt

While measuring things and trying to calculate how to put up some framing for walls and such, I had a thought. (ouch!) What would I do if I had to replace a broken window that had its frame covered by a wall? I know a lot of you are building your interiors to cover the bottom half of the windows, the edge of the window frame, or other such layouts. The windows in my bus are removed from the inside, and if I don't allow room for these to be removed I would be in big trouble if one got broken. So the only thing that I can come up with is that I can't leave the window in the bathroom. I will have to make another window panel like I did on various other windows and block them all out. I will then have to install yet another roof vent in order to provide some light to the room and provide a way to vent out the inevitable bathroom aroma. I am going to risk the back window and leave it in place because I think I could replace it from outside if need be, or just cut some steel sheet and cover it in from the outside if it came to that. Just some random thoughts...

Probably the easiest way would be to bring the paneling to the exterior window edge and then cover the window frame itself with a piece of trim, exactly like a regular house, either glued or screwed over the window frame.

Stuff · 04-07-2011, 10:11 AM

or leave window exposed and frost it out. lots of light, can be opened and replaced. but probably not what your wanting.

jkindt · 04-07-2011, 06:22 PM

I did some more calculating and measuring and found a way to frame in and keep the rear bus window functional into the shower area. It doesn't open, it is at a very bad height for in a shower

, but it has been tinted, I will add a layer of frosted glaze, and a waterproof curtain so no one needs to see anything nasty when I take a shower at night.

Hopefully it will let in enough light during the day to be worth it. Just need to find me some frosted window glaze and a proper waterproof curtain.

I will post pics as the framing goes up.

gbstewart · 04-07-2011, 08:33 PM

the place that i got my shower pan, grey and black tanks is called icon direct.com there in winkler mb. really good folks and free frt over 200.
I dont know how to post a link to there web site, but it will be easy to fine.

gbstewart

pipopak · 04-07-2011, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbstewart

I dont know how to post a link to there web site, but it will be easy to fine.gbstewart

Easiest way is to open the page, copy the URL (the thing that starts with http

and paste it here in the message body. But HAS to be the whole thing or it will not work

jkindt · 04-11-2011, 08:25 PM

Pulled up the rubber floor, the wood is in decent condition, good enough to build on so it will stay. I took out the angle grinder, removed a ton of rivets from the wall, cut off the metal panel and sliced off the seat rail to give me the most room for my shower area. Then I sealed the seams on the window panel inserts with exterior caulking, taped over the seams once it set, fit in some pink foam insulation, taped those seams up, and prepared the area to be covered with 1/4" plywood. I left the pink fiberglass insulation on the bottom section, do I need to put poly over this or just leave it? Once the room is completely framed and sheeted with plywood, it will all get covered in FRP to make it waterproof. I did some more framing, around the back window. Once done the window will remain exposed and have a small 'shelf' built in to hold shampoo bottles or whatever. I will seal the seams where the FRP and metal of the bus meet as well as a good bead of sealant around the window. I also followed someones advice (thanks Lorna) and found a drain for my shower. It is meant for a laundry tub, but it was the right size and fits perfectly. I will drop the drain pipe through the floor of the bus and attach the PVC compression fitting thing underneath. For now I will attach a fitting with a screw in plug to keep critters out since I probably wont have the waste tank installed this year. I can unscrew the cap and let it drain into a bucket under the bus if I feel the need for a shower this year. Here's the latest pics.

jkindt · 04-11-2011, 08:26 PM

More pics...

newbusser · 04-13-2011, 02:13 PM

Very nice! just went through your entire thread, love how you sealed up your windows. I may steal the idea as I have been wondering how do do this. Has the frp held up to the elements ok? I had a few people tell me it would break down with a small amount of time and weather.

jkindt · 04-15-2011, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newbusser

...Has the frp held up to the elements ok? I had a few people tell me it would break down with a small amount of time and weather.

Upon close inspection....and just about a year later....I can conclude that the FRP has not deteriorated in any way that I can detect. One side of the bus got a couple coats of automotive primer on the FRP so I figured that those would be just fine as the primer has UV resistance properties, but the unprimed side remains unaffected at this point. Highly recommed to consider this method, I definately would do it this way again. The only other option would be to laminate sheet metal over plywood instead of FRP over plywood, you would just need to find an appropriate adhesive.

While I am posting....ITS A GIRL!!!
My wife gave birth to our daughter on April 12th, at 12:39. She is 6 lbs 9 oz. and both mom and baby are doing great.

Seeria · 04-15-2011, 06:44 PM

wow YaY congrats you two

RevBill · 04-15-2011, 07:13 PM

Congrats DAD .. glad to read/hear all are doing well ..

.. and of course .. PICS .. lol ..

.. get some sleep before they get home .. y'all are going to need it ..

jkindt · 04-25-2011, 03:30 PM

I am planning on picking up a Dometic 310 RV toilet for my bathroom. As far as what to use for a flange, can I use a standard home style closet flange with this toilet or do I need a special style flange. I want to get the rough work done before I pick up the toilet. I have a spec sheet so I know the clearances that are required as well as where the water lines need to come up, but it doesn't state much about the flange other than just calling it a flange. I think the toilet is made as a replacement for existing installations.

browncrown · 04-25-2011, 05:31 PM

For what its worth, I used a regular home style closet flange on my RV toilet and it worked fine. Don't rememer what brand of toilet I have, but it is an RV toilet.

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