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Old 07-29-2015, 01:22 PM   #11
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Mmmmm...no pix for me. Anyone else?

PS...I am still going back & forth on the fridge/freezer issue. I don't have room for one of each but will need both so I've been looking at some over the counter units that combine the two. One is by Whynter and so far is the only 12v I've found that is a dual zone unit. Not cheap at $640 bucks (on "sale"). I may be able to build a super-insulated version from scratch, but this is a good model.

http://www.amazon.com/Whynter-FM-62D.../dp/B008VX01P2
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Old 07-29-2015, 01:30 PM   #12
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I think I fixed the pictures.

Quote:
I don't have room for one of each but will need both
I like that unit, but 2 cu ft is too small for me.

My theory is that you could make an insulated compartment at the bottom of your chest unit, which may get cold enough to act as a short-term freezer. I've never heard of it done before, but it's definitely something I'm going to try. My only immediate doubt is how the location of the stock thermostat might effect temps in the rest of the unit.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:40 PM   #13
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PDBreske did two of these for his bus conversion. One he adjusted the thermostat on the freezer and the other he used a Johnson Controls thermostat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDBreske View Post
Got my new Johnson Controls thermostat controller today and used it to convert my chest freezer to a refrigerator:


The chest freezer is so efficient that it took a couple of hours for the temp to come up to the new set point for the A419 controller. Once this thing is filled with food and drinks, it should be even more efficient (the contents will add a certain amount of thermal inertia).
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Originally Posted by PDBreske View Post
I looked at a few different options for the thermostat controller, but found the Johnson Controls model had the most features. I like the "Anti Short Cycle Delay" that prevents the freezer/fridge from cycling too often and should help the compressor last a bit longer. I bought this freezer used on craigslist ($50) and the JC controller cost about $75 on Amazon, so my total cost for a chest refrigerator is a little less than a new freezer on sale. In fact, I saw this same model freezer on sale at Target for $127 and should have bought one to use as a freezer, but missed the opportunity. Still regularly scanning craigslist for another one.

Only one problem I had was closing the lid of the freezer with the wire for the thermocouple draped across the opening. The wire is about an eighth-of-an-inch thick and the lid and body of the chest are quite tightly sealed with matching rigid plastic parts and a rubber gasket. The plastic parts normally fit very close together and the wire was holding them open, creating a small gap even between the rubber gasket and chest body. The gap let in a little warm air and was causing formation of condensation around the opening, so I added a strip of soft weatherstripping to compensate. My freezer is an Emerson CF450, so this may not apply to other models or manufacturers.

I'm also going to place a bunch of jugs of water into the fridge to simulate a chest full of food and drinks and watch to see if this keeps the temperature a bit more stable inside.
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:19 PM   #14
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im thinking the same.

This looks like a good idea. Im thinking of doing the same just to shy away from a Propane RV unit. I see Sproutroot just turned his thermostat down internally. Has anyone else done this?
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Old 09-19-2016, 07:39 PM   #15
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We ran a chest fridge and freezer for about 5 years. A bit inconvenient in the grand scheme but miserly in the electrical realm.
For bus conversions running on a battery bank I would totally recommend them.

We could easily get 5 day run time with a 600 amp hr battery bank.

It's a no brainer if you want to stay away from a 3 way fridge and propane.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:01 PM   #16
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What are some reasons to stay away from RV 2way or 3way units?

There's pretty much a endless supply of old RV parts on CL where I'm at. Retirement Capitol of the world
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:27 PM   #17
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Mostly because they are overpriced RV crap. They suck too much juice on electric...will freeze the coils up solid on propane if not perfectly level...and generally don't work worth a flip. Just my two cents. Anyone else?
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:42 PM   #18
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Ive no idea power useage on electric. I know the one in my motorhome uses very little LP, and the freezer will literally freeze Vodka into a slushee . From what i understand though, they are very expensive to fix as well (and i DO have to keep it VERY level). My current bus project is My "sample bus", so I am trying to keep thing modular so I can take them for my "refined bus" project... (once i figure out what works for me.)
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NowhereFast View Post
What are some reasons to stay away from RV 2way or 3way units?
Most RV fires begin in the propane refridge.
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Mostly because they are overpriced RV crap. They suck too much juice on electric...will freeze the coils up solid on propane if not perfectly level...and generally don't work worth a flip. Just my two cents. Anyone else?
And they catch fire and burn your RV to a crisp. Just look at pictures of burnt RVs in junk yards - where do many of the fires start? Yup, the fridge vent area.

I'll also go the converted freezer route when the time comes. I'm thinking of buying two small chest freezers and using one as a fridger and the other as a freezer, then I'll have the best of both worlds. I've got plenty of power to run them both (2kW of solar on the roof!), and I could run them from a small cheapo second inverter like an Exeltech XP-1100, or maybe a small Samlex or Cotek for each. (If you have more than one Cotek, are they then Kotex?)

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