Credit Score 1000 Bus

[lornaschinske]

Science may be my friend but the glass was all over the ground on the outside of the car up to a foot away from the car and very little was inside, just a couple pieces. I call that " out" as opposed to "in". Nobody was near the vehicle. We lived a long way from any one. So it wasn't vandalls or anything like that. My dog was on the porch and would have let us know if anyone came near. She also gave us that "I didn't do it" look. I'm pretty sure it wasn't her.

[PDBreske]

Originally Posted by lornaschinske

Science may be my friend but the glass was all over the ground on the outside of the car up to a foot away from the car and very little was inside, just a couple pieces. I call that " out" as opposed to "in". Nobody was near the vehicle. We lived a long way from any one. So it wasn't vandalls or anything like that. My dog was on the porch and would have let us know if anyone came near. She also gave us that "I didn't do it" look. I'm pretty sure it wasn't her.

I never said someone (or some dog) broke your window. What I did say was that the glass was not broken by air pressure in the car.

When a car drives into a lake, water leaks in before the glass breaks. Water is denser than air, so there is no way air could be trapped inside a closed car with enough efficiency to break the glass. (Unless it is your contention that door seals are more efficient at keeping air inside than keeping water outside.)

As previously stated, if cars were sealed so tightly that air pressure due to temperature differences were enough to shatter the glass, the pressure would be so high as to throw the door open when you pop the latch. Or, when the air temperatures were reversed (as in my previous comparison), the cold air inside the car would cause a pressure differential high enough to prevent opening the door at all.

As I stated before, tempered glass is made with very high internal stresses that make it stronger than untempered glass and force it to shatter into a lot of very small pieces when it does break. This is a safety feature. It's possible the window was rolled up so tightly that when the temperature rose to a point where the glass expanded just enough to force one of the internal stresses to give way, resulting in an explosive break of the entire window pane. Again, the side and rear windows are designed to do this. The glass doesn't just fall straight down, it explodes. Due to the curvature of the glass, the most likely direction of the explosion was outward, thus the pool of glass outside the vehicle.

EDIT: To anyone reading this, if you want to crack the windows to keep the interior cool, by all means, do it. This is the only reason for cracking the windows open. Preventing pressure buildup to save the glass from exploding is not the reason to do this.

EDIT 2: The UK version of the Top Gear TV show one time performed a test of three cars in which they filled each car with water through a hole in the roof and then attempted to drive the cars around their test track. All of the cars leaked water like a sieve before they were even full, and one was so leaky that they couldn't provide enough water to actually fill the car ahead of the leaks. If a car won't hold water for more than a few seconds, what makes anyone believe it will hold air long enough and at a pressure sufficient to break tempered glass?

[wmkbailey]

I have the same vent and will remove it. I think, and this is just my opinion, it is to help with condensation. Ever been in a RV with the vents closed? A bus full of people would be worst. I'm putting in the Maxx Deluxe fan vents.

[ThePimentals]

I have an electrical question, is it stupid to slightly base my KW usage off of my house usage? Like at home which is 2600 sq ft, with air conditioners, I used 477KW for the month which is .66kw per hour. But in the bus there will be different appliances and more pumps, and things like,that, so I shouldn't bother accounting for any of the house stuff right.

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by ThePimentals

I have an electrical question, is it stupid to slightly base my KW usage off of my house usage? Like at home which is 2600 sq ft, with air conditioners, I used 477KW for the month which is .66kw per hour. But in the bus there will be different appliances and more pumps, and things like,that, so I shouldn't bother accounting for any of the house stuff right.

Lorna?

I expect my usage to be less. Most people try to conserve since we have limited power, unless you are plugged in all the time.

[ThePimentals]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

Lorna?

I expect my usage to be less. Most people try to conserve since we have limited power, unless you are plugged in all the time.

I'm def planning for less, I've seen people plan for more too

[ThePimentals]

[family wagon]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

I expect my usage to be less. Most people try to conserve since we have limited power, unless you are plugged in all the time.

I concur. Actually, a bus is such a small environment, it shouldn't be difficult to calculate a relatively accurate power budget. You can pick up a kill-a-watt meter or similar to measure the consumption over a day or a few for any always-on AC devices you might have such as a refrigerator; wattage for things like DC lighting and fans are easy to calculate if you can put an accurate number on the amount of time they'll run.

If you need to figure in power for electric air conditioning too, that definitely shouldn't be based on the consumption in a house. Because the structure is all different, heat gain/loss, air in/ex-filtration, etc may all be different and will create a very different electrical consumption profile.

Are you trying to budget to run everything from battery for some period of time without recharging, or just trying to pick between 20/30/50 amp shore power..?

[ThePimentals]

Originally Posted by family wagon

I concur. Actually, a bus is such a small environment, it shouldn't be difficult to calculate a relatively accurate power budget. You can pick up a kill-a-watt meter or similar to measure the consumption over a day or a few for any always-on AC devices you might have such as a refrigerator; wattage for things like DC lighting and fans are easy to calculate if you can put an accurate number on the amount of time they'll run.

If you need to figure in power for electric air conditioning too, that definitely shouldn't be based on the consumption in a house. Because the structure is all different, heat gain/loss, air in/ex-filtration, etc may all be different and will create a very different electrical consumption profile.

Are you trying to budget to run everything from battery for some period of time without recharging, or just trying to pick between 20/30/50 amp shore power..?

Run off battery, and I have solar panel plans too and want to know how much charging off those ill be doing.

[ThePimentals]

[ThePimentals]

[bansil]

did you throw away the pin and small roller the cable rides on???

I hope not (fingers crossed)

I found out today I need them,or I have to make some

[bansil]

Oh by the way....good job recycling

[wmkbailey]

I wonder what kind of rust I will find, since we have the same bus. When I finish re-skinning the window,s I get to tackle the floor next.

[ThePimentals]

Originally Posted by bansil

did you throw away the pin and small roller the cable rides on???

I hope not (fingers crossed)

I found out today I need them,or I have to make some

I have it

[ThePimentals]

[Diesel Dan]

Is that a 50 gallon drum? I was going to use 50 gal myself, but opted for 30 gal drums instead. I'm hanging mine underneath, and the 50 gal drum was going to hang pretty low, and so I was concerned about ground clearance.

[ThePimentals]

Originally Posted by Diesel Dan

Is that a 50 gallon drum? I was going to use 50 gal myself, but opted for 30 gal drums instead. I'm hanging mine underneath, and the 50 gal drum was going to hang pretty low, and so I was concerned about ground clearance.

It is, it does fit nicely under my bus for whatever reason actually. Yay.

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by ThePimentals

It is, it does fit nicely under my bus for whatever reason actually. Yay.

We seem to have good ground clearance under our buses. I can sit upright with room above my head. The skirting comes down low.

[Diesel Dan]

Perhaps I'm just more paranoid than y'all about ground clearance issues. As I remember, the 50gal drum hung down to about 8"-10" from the ground on my bus. It was almost as low as the entry door. Since I will be putting these drums behind the rear wheels, I just didn't want to risk having them bottom out while coming out of a parking lot or something like that. I can also sit under my bus with some room over my head.