Daddy's Dog House

[cheezypsnookle]

im adding a accumulator after my pump to save on wear... i dislike the sound of a pump trying to prime over and over

[dirtygoat]

As far as painting galvanized, here's what a paint guy told me to use... Haven't done so yet, but you may want to look into it...

http://www.marinenutz.com/products/5...%20PRIMER.html

[houskou]

where have you gone Joe Dimaggio?

[houskou]

Much progress shown on his blog...

[Hex]

Looks good ...

And I don't know why you couldn't use flexible stuff, so long as you're making sure it's not in a place it could kink. (What a great idea, BTW!)

[jkindt]

Originally Posted by emberglow

...Do consider that rain comes in the roof vent...

Why would rain come in the roof vent? Wouldn't you use a vent cap? I used one and there is no way rain is getting in my vent pipe, it has been raining here for a couple weeks, my vent pipe isn't finished yet and is open to the inside of the bus, no leaks at all.

[lornaschinske]

Originally Posted by bcschro

... I will have a female outlet next to the junction box that is wired to my generator. When I want to use the generator, I will plug into it with my shore power cord. When I have access to shore power, I can unplug from the generator, pull out my cord and plug into the shore power outlet.

I could put in a transfer box (about $200.00), and it can go out and I can replace it. Or I can do it this way and do it manually. Later if I get lazy, I'll do the transfer box...

This is the best, most "idiot-proof" way of making sure you don't accidentally have the generator running AND the shore power on at the same time. I've heard a lot of stories about auto transfer switches kicking on the genset while plugged into shore power. The results were... not good. I wouldn't do the transfer switch. But that's us. We are using the same method because we never know when we will have a "blonde moment".

[Tango]

BTW..regarding painting galvanized? --- Most auto parts stores now carry "self etching primer" to prep galvanized, aluminum & stainless for paint. Handy stuff.

[bus-bro]

Originally Posted by bcschro

You live and learn.

I also have found that to be true in regards to doing a bus conversion. Some folks here do very good work; in my case I'm still living and learning.

[Tango]

just for the record...most "etching" primers need to cure a minimum of 24 hours and I've seen some that recommend a week. Ouch!

[somewhereinusa]

Have a look at the last couple of entries on my build (link at bottom). I've gotten the framing done for a door like you describe. Used existing door metal. I'ts almost ready to put the skin on, I just have to finish up the door latch part.

[putterspitt]

I took my battery box and used it as a place for a gas tank as I had the the same problem with bus being diesel

[Redbear]

As a past and occasionally present radio installer, I have LOTS of experience with pulling wires through vehicle roofs with a snake. I'm not the kind of installer that always puts antennas over dome lights, but the kind that drills blind holes where the antennas SHOULD be, and snakes cables from there. (Besides, the heat from a dome light can cause internal shorting in antenna cables.)

I don't know if you used the old flat steel or the newer fiberglass snakes, I always used the steel ones. Some tips:

1. For difficult pulls, don't try to work the snake with the storage reel on the end. Cut or snap off a piece to work with. I think the piece I use in vehicles is only 8 to 10 feet long.

2. If there is a narrow gap between the roof and braces that the flat snake slips through, try another route. Without the reel on the snake, it should be easier to twist and turn it to 'walk' it another direction.

3. Make a rounded hook on the end you are pushing through, and bend it closed into a loop. With good pliers and a gentle hand, you should be able to make the front of the snake about 3/8" round without snapping the steel. The rounded part can be used to make the snake follow a brace, edge or sheet for steering the snake. It will also discourage the flat snake from slipping through a seam that the wire can't follow it through. A loop is also more likely to follow the outside of insulation (not guaranteed), where the flat snake will punch a hole through insulation before you know it.

If you are working near hidden wires or insulation, close the gap with electrical tape where the straight part of the hook touches the back. You don't want it to snag the wires or the insulation when trying to retrieve the snake for another go. I think you know what I mean. If you do think you snagged something, don't pull harder. Push the snake forward a smidge, and then twist it 90° or 180° so whatever was caught is out of the hook and try again.

4. If the clearance is tight, once the snake is through don't try to pull the whole diameter of the wire through attached right at the hook. The junction at the attachment may be too fat, and have no flexibility for curves. It is depressing to spend 20 minutes or more getting the snake to come out the right holes, and then have the wire pull loose from the tape on the snake when the clearance is tight. A couple of options to make this go more smoothly on REALLY difficult pulls:

-a. strip the jacket of the cable back, so the exposed wires from inside reach from hole to hole. Make a loop in the metal part of one internal wire and solder it, or solder two wires together, and connect the loop through the hook. Tape it well (but slim and tight), starting on the snake and finishing on the cable. Wrap each step-up to a greater thickness with tape for a smoother transition and prevent getting the 'step' caught on an edge. For a multi-conductor wire, you might pull one, then two, then three internal conductors, followed by the jacket, each at a different distance back from the snake. If dealing with just one corner, the steps might be 4-6 inches apart, If the whole pull is hard (like penetrating fiberglass insulation batts) having the step-ups 3-4 feet apart might work better.

-b. connect mason twine to the snake, and use the twine to pull in some 1/4-inch braided nylon cord, and use the cord to pull the wire. Have the twine and the cord long enough so you can pull the wire through without either end of the cord disappearing into a hole, so you can set up a 'do-over' if needed without going back to using the snake. Another option would be to use telephone wire instead of twine and cord for the pull string.

-c. attach the head of the wire not at the loop, but well up along the body of the snake, and tape it to the snake in multiple places. This does not always work as well as a. or b., but is quicker if the resistance to movement is minimal and the route has no turns. And if you do it far enough up, the snake hasn't disappeared into the hole as the wire passes through its route.

-d. When taping a wire or cord to a snake, don't just go around the two of them, but start with several tight turns on the snake alone to get some gripping and pulling power, and then add the wire in afterwards.

-e. use pulling lube if you have it, or silicone grease, vaseline, etc. Sometimes even wetting the jacket of the wire a little helps with lubrication. I have been known to spit a little on smaller wires from time to time. But to be honest, most of my work has been dry pulls.

5. If possible, have a helper, or use two hands (I've been known to use a foot) in order to keep some gentle tension on the wire as it goes in, so it stays in the direction of the pull. If there is a 'catch,' try backing up 2-3 inches, giving a little twist to one or both ends, and then pulling again gently before initiating the 'last resort' brute force pull. On some routes, the helper can also 'push' the wire a little to prevent it from catching on the entry hole, or to keep the cable loose going over a rib. Sometimes the snake just guides the front of a pushed wire, but more often it pulls. A pushed wire, by the way, is much less likely to get snagged than a pulled one, but is more likely to wander away from the direct route into some unknown crevice.

You may already have your second wire run, but maybe some of these tips will save someone else's bus from getting a pummeling.

[Redbear]

Edit: How the hell did I quote myself two days later, and cause a double post???

[lornaschinske]

I use a somewhat stiff fiberglass snake made for house wiring. It's not terribly flexible. Good cheap alternative is to use a length of stiff copper romex or (short distance) an old fiberglass fishing pole (not a good one since you would need to pull the "eyes" off the pole except for the one on the tip). I wouldn't go buy a new once since the only thing we have to "snake" would be the ceiling lights and I can do that with the fiberglass one we have... unless I find a trashed fishing pole someplace.

[crazycal]

Do you have a truck parts store in your town. Just drive the bus there and have them find a new boot for you. They won't be able to look it up so bring the bus.