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09-20-2017, 01:00 PM
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#1
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New York City
Posts: 33
Year: 1986
Chassis: Ward/AmTran
Engine: Ford 4V 429/385 Big Block
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Dave, the '86 B-Series (AKA Franken-Dave)
Many months of research on this site, as well as many others---mostly Craigslist---and I pulled the trigger on our new bus, Dave!
He's and '86 Ford/Ward B-Series with a 4V 429 gas motor. Got close to 10mpg on the way back East from Colorado, averaging 60-65. Can't wait to get started on it. Will be posting progress picks as I go.
Thanks to all the people on here who put in a ton of time and energy making tutorials, and answering questions. I don't think I would have had the confidence to go forward with this plan without this site.
Oh, did I mention Dave has a 16" Roof-Raise?
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09-21-2017, 08:18 AM
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#2
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New York City
Posts: 33
Year: 1986
Chassis: Ward/AmTran
Engine: Ford 4V 429/385 Big Block
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Heading out to take as many measurements as possible. Planning to add a couple of smaller windows near the front, between the struts.
Been reading about insulation---Spray foam sounds great from a performance perspective, but I'm concerned about off-gassing and flamability. In an effort to replicate (as close as possible) the R-rating, I'm wondering if coating the entire interior living area with rust-oleum (or another type of sealant) to prevent air leaks would work? I like the sheep's wool insulation so far, and I'm planning for a cork subfloor, with sealed cork flooring on top, and cork insulation on the ceiling.
Learning to weld in the coming weeks, very excited. Something I've wanted to do for a long time. Dave needs some work on the interior welds from the roof-raise, for my preferences. We have our bus located at a MakerSpace here in NY, and will have access to vast equipment, classes, and experience.
Any comments, recommendations, or questions are appreciated.
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09-21-2017, 08:37 AM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 164
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Someone put some serious time into that bus already. I like the uniformity of the roof. Something about the multilevel roof raise method has always looked a bit so-so to me, though I understand it is often done to preserve the strength of the original structure.
It looks like you will get to jump right in on interior work without too much elbow grease spent on metal work. Seriously, if not for that big yellow nose, it would almost not be recognizable as a school bus.
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10-10-2017, 11:08 AM
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#4
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New York City
Posts: 33
Year: 1986
Chassis: Ward/AmTran
Engine: Ford 4V 429/385 Big Block
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucasd
Someone put some serious time into that bus already. I like the uniformity of the roof. Something about the multilevel roof raise method has always looked a bit so-so to me, though I understand it is often done to preserve the strength of the original structure.
It looks like you will get to jump right in on interior work without too much elbow grease spent on metal work. Seriously, if not for that big yellow nose, it would almost not be recognizable as a school bus.
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Yeah, previous owner put in A LOT of work on this thing. I like the full roof raise too, but only on the dog nose busses. Flat fronts, I like the roof taper on those.
Now I have a cool area over the driver's seat. Thinking of putting a murphy bed/bunk up there. Just a small one, or maybe a play area for our daughter.
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10-10-2017, 11:12 AM
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#5
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: New York City
Posts: 33
Year: 1986
Chassis: Ward/AmTran
Engine: Ford 4V 429/385 Big Block
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F*$#ing Rivets
Well....
I've spent the past 3 days of work on this bus, in an attempt to remove the ceiling panels. I want to Insulate this thing 150%. We will be full time in extreme climates, and I go Heat-Mad.
So far, I've tried every method I've come across except the angle grinder w/cutting wheel.
The air chisel made short work of the aluminum pop rivets, but the steel ones are a different beast all together... Air chisel does nothing but wear me out.
On the bright side, I fashioned a punch bit out of the chisel punch that has a stop at the perfect spot to punch the centers straight out, without getting itself wedged in the rivet.
I'm switching over to the angle grinder/cold chisel method this week. Will post results.
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10-10-2017, 11:17 AM
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#6
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Traveling
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Midwest
Posts: 2,573
Year: 2003
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: 5.9L Cummins
Rated Cap: '00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyKoleMedina
Well....
I've spent the past 3 days of work on this bus, in an attempt to remove the ceiling panels. I want to Insulate this thing 150%. We will be full time in extreme climates, and I go Heat-Mad.
So far, I've tried every method I've come across except the angle grinder w/cutting wheel.
The air chisel made short work of the aluminum pop rivets, but the steel ones are a different beast all together... Air chisel does nothing but wear me out.
On the bright side, I fashioned a punch bit out of the chisel punch that has a stop at the perfect spot to punch the centers straight out, without getting itself wedged in the rivet.
I'm switching over to the angle grinder/cold chisel method this week. Will post results.
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Rivets are what make your bus so bulletptoof. Each 1/4 rivet is good for 1800 lbs of holding strength.
read this post. I cut a nothc and popped-en off with sharpened air chisel
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