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Old 03-13-2016, 09:03 PM   #41
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:13 PM   #42
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Just wondering what gauge metal you got? Did you have it pre cut?
Thanks for the info
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:17 PM   #43
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Just wondering what gauge metal you got? Did you have it pre cut?
Thanks for the info
Its 20g galvanized steel. I have a buddy whose got a fabrication shop. He ordered the steel for me and sheared all but one sheet for me. I'm afraid I won't be any help when it comes to cost for raw material and having it pre cut, he gave it to me at cost and didn't charge me to shear it.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:27 PM   #44
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Thanks, I have a friend that works in a metal shop,and they always give me good deals
And the shearing is free, I think he does it on his lunch hour, cause all the time I get hey
Bring me a burger or Taco..
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:14 PM   #45
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Nice score! If it is galvanized, don't forget to etch it thoroughly before painting. Good news is there are some pretty god "self-etching" primers these day that make it a lot easier.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:26 AM   #46
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Nice score! If it is galvanized, don't forget to etch it thoroughly before painting. Good news is there are some pretty god "self-etching" primers these day that make it a lot easier.
yep. I'd just ospho it.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:27 AM   #47
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Thanks, I have a friend that works in a metal shop,and they always give me good deals
And the shearing is free, I think he does it on his lunch hour, cause all the time I get hey
Bring me a burger or Taco..
Same here. I still have lots of connections down at the steel shop where I used to work.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:49 PM   #48
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Getting this rubber flooring off the plywood is a pain, but it looks like I'll be able to reuse a lot of the wood. Only deterioration I've found was around the passenger side front wheel well. The rest seems solid!
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Old 03-16-2016, 11:31 PM   #49
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So you don't have a metal floor under the wood huh? Does that seem like a problem at all? I guess not, since obviously this bus is older than most conversions on here, and it seems in pretty good shape. Are you replacing all that wood? And if so, what kind of wood are you going to use? I'm assuming it's exposed to anything coming up from the road?

Do you happen to know if this was a common construction technique for Gilligs? Are Crowns this way too? I'm so curious.
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Old 03-20-2016, 11:47 PM   #50
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Sammy, I have a 1973 Gillig that I'm in the process of converting, and it also didn't have a floor underneath the wood. I had to build one from scratch, and it holds about 2" of insulation now. It was a pain.
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:10 AM   #51
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FreedomPanda - did you build a steel floor, or just rebuild a new wood floor? Seems like if the old floor lasted 40 years, then it's not a bad technique? But what would the downsides be to a wooden floor without the steel under it? You could still put 2" of insulation on it, and then your finished floor on top of that, correct?
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Old 03-21-2016, 10:28 AM   #52
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Best be marine grade plywood if it is to last more than a year or two.
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:05 AM   #53
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stuff like this







https://www.marine-plywood.us/mahogany_okoume.htm

http://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/help.php
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Old 03-21-2016, 11:11 AM   #54
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Best be marine grade plywood if it is to last more than a year or two.
I'm assuming that's what Gillig would have put in?
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Old 03-21-2016, 12:14 PM   #55
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Out of curiosity, is marine plywood fireproof?

I was familiar with fireproof plywoods but less with marine grade ones.
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Old 03-21-2016, 02:28 PM   #56
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Oh! I was going to share what my cost was for the 20g steel for my bus...I spent $275, which included the cutting.
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Old 03-21-2016, 03:34 PM   #57
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Getting this rubber flooring off the plywood is a pain, but it looks like I'll be able to reuse a lot of the wood. Only deterioration I've found was around the passenger side front wheel well. The rest seems solid!
What was the best technique for getting the rubber flooring off?
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Old 03-21-2016, 04:49 PM   #58
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Years ago I borrowed a neighbors shingle spade and it worked like a champ. As the name implies, they are made for removing roofing shingles but it was great at getting under the old rubber. Note...mine was not glued down that heavily.
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Old 03-21-2016, 05:52 PM   #59
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Mine wasn't even glued down really at all. It was super easy to get out.
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Old 03-21-2016, 09:42 PM   #60
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What was the best technique for getting the rubber flooring off?
I went to Lowe's and bought a floor scraper. It's a long handled tool with a sharp, replaceable blade on the end. It's time consuming, but productive. The rubber in Delores is stuck pretty good; makes me wish I knew what they'd used to make it stick in the first place!
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