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Old 11-20-2009, 11:44 AM   #31
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezypsnookle
those convex blind spot mirror are worth there weight in gold even the ones in front if i were you i would keep them... sounds like your coming right along..
I took a short drive the other day to haul yard sale leftovers to Goodwill, and paid special attention to the convex mirrors on the front fenders. I think I'm going to keep them as you suggested - they help to keep me centered in my lane, and also they are just easy to keep your eye on to monitor traffic without much effort.

As far as "coming right along"... man, I wish I had more free time to devote to this project. It's frustrating that I'm not able to get more done!

Next step is to pull up the plywood, which would seem pretty straight forward, but that stuff is really attached well! Those nails hold it better than I would have thought. I guess 'cause they are rusted on. Anyone have any tips on making this job go faster? Currently I'm using a 6ft pry bar, but so far the wood is just splintering into a thousand shards rather than coming up as a sheet. Maybe it would help to take a chisel and escavate around all the nails? I just don't want to put holes in the metal floor while prying with the 1" tip of that pry bar. I really haven't spent that much time on this yet, so maybe I'm getting ahead of myself here...
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:17 PM   #32
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Over this last summer I stripped my fathers shop roof of all the old shingles (3 layers thick ) using a shovel made for stripping roofing. I'm wondering if this would work in your situation. the shovel has a bunch of notches cut into the blade so you could pry the nails up as you go. they run around $25 or free if you know someone with one that would let you borrow it. here is a link to one at lowes but they can be found at most hardware stores that deal with roofing. They are typically called Roofing shovels.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=p ... lpage=none
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Old 11-20-2009, 09:18 PM   #33
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Dan, what you are using is probably the best bet. The more leverage the better. I had the same issue with sections of my bus. Actually the plywood sections that came up real easy were the areas that the wood was wet and the screws were rusty. The dry clean areas were a bear.

Thomas uses screws to fasten the plywood to the steel floor. The first bus that I was going to convert was a bluebird and they use nails. I don't understand how they were able to get nails to go through the steel underneath. But I can tell you it was alot easier coming up than the Thomas.
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Old 11-20-2009, 10:53 PM   #34
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Wow now that is rust... Looks like you've got your work cut out for you lookin forward to seeing what you decide to do with it.
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Old 11-21-2009, 07:39 AM   #35
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

I'm basically in the process of grinding and wirebrushing and then a good rust preventative paint. I will have some more pics up after today's progress.
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Old 11-22-2009, 01:16 AM   #36
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Hay Dan!

Don't let the lack of time get to ya, I have been working on mine for 7 months and have just finished getting the floor up. Between a bout with cancer and the hottest summer we have ever had here in Pacific northwest, it seems like it will never progress, but it is. Just keep on poking away at it and soon you'll be into the fun part!!

Mine is a 40 foot blue bird with about a thousand pounds of nails holding the plywood down and construction glue around all edges, so prying up was fun. I also used a skill saw with old combination blade to cut flooring into 2 foot sections. It made it a lot easier to pry the pieces in sections instead of 4' by 8' pieces. just make sure you adjust blade depth so it doesn't ride on metal too much.
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Old 11-22-2009, 11:54 PM   #37
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Most of the flooring is up

This weekend I make good progress on pulling up the floor. Once I got the technique down, it wasn't too bad. I'd drive in a large chisel, followed by the 6' pry bar, then wedge something in there to maintain tension, have another go with the pry bar, etc. It's mainly nails holding the plywood down, so if I apply enough force, they either pop up, or the wood just pops off of them.

I solved my main dilemma, which was how to get the plywood out from under the electrical panel. I ended up removing the top electric panel from the bottom part of the unit, which is mainly heater stuff. I suspended the top part using ropes, and pulled the bottom out of the way. That way I don't have to disconnect all the wiring. I'll just move that bottom unit around as I work.

Here I am in my moment of victory:

The floor overall is in pretty good shape. Just a few areas are rusty. Mainly the driver's area, and some spots around the wheel wells.
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Old 12-29-2009, 12:10 AM   #38
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

So I've made a little more progress on the Magic Bus. I've been grinding rust and treating it with a Permatex product sold at NAPA that is like Ospho or POR15. I also got my wheelchair lift detached so I could treat the rust on and around it.

In this pic you can see the difference between an area I treated, and one that was not:


Here you can see the extent of the rust on the back of the bus:


My plan for fixing it is to rivet a piece of galvanized metal that used to connect the flooring to the wall inside the bus. It has one curved edge or small lip, but I will just consider that to be either a rain diverter or aerodynamic tail fin, take your pick.


It will be cold and raining for the next couple of days, so I may be restricted to just continuing to grind rust on the floor. So far, I've only gotten the driver's area done, although that is the worst of it. I don't think I'll even be able to use paint or caulk due to the weather being below 40F.

I may also do some shopping for stuff I need. I like what cheezypsnookle has done with his flooring, and think I will do the same thing: red rosin paper, 1/4" sheathing, 3/4" plywood. I have headroom issues, so 1/4" is about all the insulation I can afford to put in there. Better than nothing I suppose. The plywood will be my final flooring with several coats of polyurethane on it and some area rugs. I'll probably use solid wood for the steps since they are more exposed to the elements, and I will likely pour a DIY bedliner in the back utility area.
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File Type: jpg rust fixed under elec console.JPG (68.4 KB, 1374 views)
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:34 PM   #39
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

DD, I have the same roof height as you and I am 6'1". I did 1/2" styrofoam insulation and 5/8" OSB plywood and I can actually stand upright on each far side of the bus next to the windows.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:13 PM   #40
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Quote:
Originally Posted by BUSBOZO
DD, I have the same roof height as you and I am 6'1". I did 1/2" styrofoam insulation and 5/8" OSB plywood and I can actually stand upright on each far side of the bus next to the windows.
I'm 6'4" (6'5" with shoes), and when I had the original 3/4" plywood floor and black rubber mat, I had about 1/2" headroom in the center of the aisle. So I'm pretty much not going to put any more than 1" total flooring.
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