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Old 03-19-2013, 04:24 PM   #411
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Quote:
Originally Posted by GusGus
Great job on the bus! Looks awesome. I am going to have to steal that idea for the bunks, that is great.
Thanks! The bunks have been working great so far. Although there is a bit of hassle involved in getting them up and down, I have done it enough times that I've developed a technique that only takes a couple minutes. It would sure be cool though if someone could further develop my idea and have a less primitive way of raising and lowering the bunks. If they were somehow in metal tracks and a motorized hoist was used, that would be slick! Another idea I had, but ended up not implementing would be to have either springs and/or weights to make the bed easier to lift (like a garage door). I may still retro-fit some springs at some point...
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:38 PM   #412
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Definitely going to have to go through this thread when I have time. Looks nice!!
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:41 PM   #413
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

That was the only thing I was thinking of when I saw that, Because it probably needs 2 people to lift it up in place or one man by your self is probably a pain. I thought ( and maybe this is getting way to technical) you could but soft rubber really tight bungys on each corner and fasten them to top of the bed, so you have to actually push it down to come down and it latches into something, so when you unlatch in it "springs" back up. Does that make sense? Just a thought.

- Talking about the bunk beds
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:59 AM   #414
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

I do the bunks by myself most of the time. The process to raise the bunks is as follows:
1. I use the pulleys to lift up one side until it binds and quickly wind the rope around the grommet
2. Then I lift the other side, which at that point reaches the top, and connect the fasteners
3. Go back to the first side and lift the rest of the way and fasten

Alternately, I can lay on my back on the lower bunk and use all 4 hands and feet to push the whole bunk up evenly in one step and tie it off, then attach fasteners. Again, the process only takes a couple minutes, but it is somewhat primitive.

Lowering the bunks is a bit easier, of course. I just lift a bit to get the weight off the fasteners, tie off the ropes, then disconnect the fasteners, and then hold both ropes at the same time and let gravity do it's job while I keep the bunk balanced and level during it's descent so it doesn't bind.

...Ooooh! I just had an idea! I could tie permanent loops lower on the ropes and create additional attachment points so when I do the initial lift, all I have to do is slip the loop over the attachment point, rather than having to wrap it around the anchor several times to temporarily hold the bed during the back and forth lifting process. That will definitely make the process smoother.

GusGus: Yes your bungee idea is how I was thinking of doing the springs. I think bungees probably would not last very long, especially if the beds spend much time in the down position. I would probably find some metal springs to serve that function. I was thinking of having just two springs per bunk, on either end in the center; but your idea of four springs, one on each corner, might work better.
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Old 03-21-2013, 07:58 PM   #415
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

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Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
I can lay on my back on the lower bunk and use all 4 hands and feet to push the whole bunk up evenly in one step and tie it off, then attach fasteners. Again, the process only takes a couple minutes, but it is somewhat primitive.
You have 4 hands? Now THAT would be useful!!
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #416
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Quote:
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...You have 4 hands? Now THAT would be useful!!
You've heard of being "down on all fours", correct? I'm just expanding upon that concept. Creative grammar. I've never been one to follow all the rules - I make the rules, man! The English language just needs to follow my lead!
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Old 04-28-2013, 11:05 PM   #417
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Preparing for Plumbing

Hey guys and gals, I'm getting ready to start in on the plumbing soon. I have mentally re-configured the holding tank configuration several times, and think I now have the best solution. Here is a diagram of what I am planning to do under the bus:



"WVO" stands for "Waste Vegetable Oil". I have been doing the WVO thing for nearly a decade now, and am looking forward to configuring the bus for that fuel. But for now, the WVO system is only relevant in terms of where I will hang all my various tanks.

I was originally going to use all PVC for the plumbing system, but now have decided to go with PEX. The flexibility and ease of installation appeals to me, and I am hypothesizing that crimped semi-flexible tubing will hold up better than glued rigid plastic joints in a mobile application. Plus, I can think of many other applications for PEX around my house and property, so I'm looking forward to getting into that method of plumbing. Of course I'll use PVC for the drains.

I bought six 30gal plastic barrels from a local car wash for $5 each. Those will be used for freshwater and greywater tanks. I will not be drinking the freshwater, but rather have a 2.5 gallon dispenser in the kitchen. I will not have blackwater for the time being, and will stick with either my bucket/kitty litter toilet, or a cassette style portable/RV toilet. The 30gal tanks well be installed in pairs, so each of the following will have 60 gallons total: fresh water, grey water, WVO collection. I will connect the inlet and outlet of each tank so they act as essentially one interconnected 60 gallon tank composed of two connected 30 gallon tanks. So the fills will "t" into the two barrels, and the drains will also "t" and go to a common drain.

I'm going to use metal strapping to hold up the tanks. I don't remember the size of the strapping I got, but it was the heaviest duty option. The weight rating on the straps is far beyond the weight of the full tanks. I will use three straps for each 30 gallon barrel, and these straps will connect to the center frame on the inside, and to the floor joists on the outside. I will use nuts and bolts to attach the straps.

Okay folks, have at it! Am I about to do something completely bone-headed? Please offer up your feedback now before I reach the point of no return!

Thanks!

Dan
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:30 AM   #418
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

That seems like alot of weight behind the rear wheels.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:11 AM   #419
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

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That seems like alot of weight behind the rear wheels.
Good point! I had originally planned to have the 120 gallon WVO tank and grey water tanks switched in terms of location, which would take 60 gallons off the rear, and I would still prefer to do it that way, but that WVO tank is huge, and mounting it between the frame rails would be much easier and less expensive than mounting it on the side of the bus. I'm just not sure that the floor joists offer enough strength to act as mounting points for a tank that big. Also it doesn't quite fit in that location, and I think I would have to cut a giant hole in the skirt of the bus to accommodate it. The best solution I can think of to offset the weight would be to switch the fresh water and grey water tank locations, assuming that I will always be carrying fresh water, but often will have empty grey water tanks. I've not tried to figure this out scientifically, but I think that when full, each 60 gallon pair of tanks will weigh roughly 500 pounds, and the WVO tank will weigh 1000 pounds. So if everything is full at the same time, that would be 2,000 pounds behind the rear wheels. Anyone else have thoughts on that amount of weight? I suppose even if that amount of weight is okay, if I were then to add the tongue weight of a large trailer, that might put me over the limit. I suppose if I really wanted to do this right I would find out the rating for each axle of the bus, and then get it weighed to see where I stand currently, then I would know how much more weight I can add.
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:27 PM   #420
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Dan

I have several friends who tried the veggie oil thing. They gave it up because of not finding enough WVO. It used to be that a person could get that stuff for free. It is not that way any longer.

Couple that with the fact that you have to filter the stuff and process it, I will not consider it an option.

I believe that you have to have some system that heats the WVO in order to run it in your motor.

I presume that you have done some research on WVO. It may still be a viable option. Perhaps you have all the angles worked out.

I still think that it would be cool if your exhaust smells like roasting peanuts.

Good luck with your project.
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