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Old 12-29-2009, 10:16 PM   #41
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

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What are you planning on doing with your red and yellow upper flashers? You may be better off addressing them and the patch for the rust at the same time?
I'm going to leave the flashers alone for now. If anything, I will replace the lenses with clear lenses and maybe a stronger bulb to use as outdoor lighting or to augment my reverse lights. For now, I'll just swap the amber and red lights so I have all amber in front and all red in back.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:31 PM   #42
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

I wasn't able to post more than 3 pics last time, so I thought I'd add a couple more.

Here is the wheelchair lift removed:


I'm sort of agonizing about whether or not to keep it. That is a rather large chunk of metal that I could be rid of. It would free up some space in my storage area, allowing me to have a closet I might otherwise not be able to have. BUT... It would be useful for lifting barrels of WVO, perhaps a small motorcycle, or any number of other heavy items I might haul. I think I will likely keep it for now. I can always change my mind later if I find I'm not using it enough. It really doesn't affect the basic floorplan that much, and if I dump it later, it would be easy to reconfigure the utility area at that time.

The bottom of the lift is really rusty. I scraped off major chunks of loose rust. But the floor under the plywood was in good shape.


Today I went to home depot and got a gallon of rustoleum rusty metal primer, and I pondered flooring options some more. They had some really thin 1/4" laminate flooring for $1.00/sq.ft. (http://tinyurl.com/ye3dwhq) that looked pretty good, and also some self-adhesive vinyl tiles (http://tinyurl.com/4ms8qo) for the same price that looked like parquet wood flooring, that were like 1/8" thick. I'm leaning towards one of these options instead of just putting polyurethane over plywood, mainly because I'd have to spend $15 or $20 a sheet to get nice enough plywood for that purpose, and at that point I might as well just get some nicer flooring and cheaper plywood. Especially if it doesn't affect my headroom very much. The laminate wood was definitely nicer looking than the tiles, but the tiles seem easier to deal with, are thinner, and would be easier to replace if damaged. Hmmm...
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File Type: jpg Lift Removed.JPG (83.5 KB, 1335 views)
File Type: jpg lift bottom.JPG (75.4 KB, 1336 views)
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:26 AM   #43
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps, least they did in a mobile home I had, that said I did use some better quality ones in the back bathroom and those were fine so I don't know. Just thought I'd mention it.

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Old 12-30-2009, 09:32 AM   #44
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

A quick note on that those holes up by the lights... have you considered something like eternabond? Maybe lay a bit over then do a metal plate over it?
Here is a thread about using it on RVs.
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:34 PM   #45
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

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With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps...
Thanks for that heads-up - I'll give that some thought. When they developed gaps, was it due to migration caused by failure of the adhesive? Or did they shrink? I wonder what would happen if I were to add a few drops of additional adhesive to each tile?
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Old 12-31-2009, 02:12 PM   #46
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Ah Smitty, you're always trying to push me out of my comfort zone! Great ideas for sure, but they are just beyond the realm of my reality.
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Old 01-01-2010, 04:10 AM   #47
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

[quote=Diesel Dan]
Quote:
Originally Posted by "reverend d":3ha7jg2n
With the temperature changes a bus would see, those self adhesive ones may give some problems and develop gaps...
Thanks for that heads-up - I'll give that some thought. When they developed gaps, was it due to migration caused by failure of the adhesive? Or did they shrink? I wonder what would happen if I were to add a few drops of additional adhesive to each tile?[/quote:3ha7jg2n]

Honestly I think it was indeed a matter of adhesion. The tiles were of cheaper quality, the ones I used in the back were armstrong much thicker and just better than the lower priced home depot stuff. I did roll both of them with the weight but if you go that route make sure you spend the money on a good product and you probably won't have a problem. I just wanted to make sure you didn't get something that was bargain bin and end up moving on you like ours did and our temperatures in the mobile home with central heat and air were a bit more stable than you might encounter. Good luck with it!

Regards,

Rev. D.
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:22 PM   #48
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

I still think you could build a cabinet to fit around the lift to hide it. And if you get rid of the lift later, just put a back and some shelves in the cabinet like you might do anyways. When you want to use the lift, just open the cabinet doors and the outside door and your good to go.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:39 PM   #49
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

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I still think you could build a cabinet to fit around the lift to hide it. And if you get rid of the lift later, just put a back and some shelves in the cabinet like you might do anyways. When you want to use the lift, just open the cabinet doors and the outside door and your good to go.
Your cabinet idea is definitely growing on me. It would help contain the noise, and would likely create a nice linear surface to which other things could be attached.
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Old 01-02-2010, 05:44 PM   #50
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Re: Diesel Dan's Skoolie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
DD- On the rusted area near the rear flashers, I would trim-off the remaining rust, and rivet a patch onto the area (put the patch on the inside). You can remove the screws where the end of the roof cap attaches to the rear wall & slide the patch in there to reattach, and the same around the flashers, notch (radius) the patch around those holes, letting the lights hide the rivets. Then mud it in & refinish it.

That piece of metal would be anbother point of entry for rust & leaks...a 60MPH wind at the rear of the bus would likely whip rainwater right up underneath it anyways.

Smitty
Smitty, all your ideas are great, but they are all work work work! You did make me second-think the curve on the sheet metal though. I may try to hammer the curve out of another similar piece to see if I could get it flat, or just buy a straight piece of metal. I was planning to caulk the hell out of the whole thing, especially the bottom, but that is not the best solution. Plus, being so thin, it would be a potential safety hazard when climbing up to the roof, etc.
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