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Old 06-23-2009, 10:38 AM   #11
Skoolie
 
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Well I am not versed in motorhome wiring but I will be wiring the bus based on code for a house. You can get up to 6 recept on a circuit. so really you can probably wire the whole bus on 2 or 3 circuits. All of my lighting will be 12v DC. Most likely LED to keep the current draw down plus it is already wired for it in the ceiling.

As far as the breaker panel I would recommend you buy arc fault breakers for each recept circuit. They are more expensive than a regular breaker but it is cheaper than buying a bunch of GFIC recepts. Grounding is very important on a vehicle because you don't have a good earth ground since you are isolated on tires. If you are on Shore power you will have a ground supplied from the power supply. But if you are on Gennie power, you rely on the GFIC's to protect you. Unless you drive a ground rod when you are parked (who's going to do that, right).

Wiring a breaker panel is very simple. Keep it clean that way you don't get confused. Wire one circuit at a time, landing the ground to the ground bar and then the neutral (white) to the neutral bar (there should be a bonding bar that connects the neutral bar to the ground bar.) If you are using the arc fault breakers, the breaker will have a white pig tail that lands on the neutral bar the the white wire from the romex will land on the breaker. Then connect the black wire to the breaker. I know this sounds confusing but it will make sence once you look at it.

LOL. Yes there is a HUGE difference between a electricain and a electrical engineer much less, a mechanical engineer.
Good luck. I'll be here if you need me
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:59 AM   #12
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Im dont know much about electrical but I believe that many posts say to keep the neutral and ground seperate in the panel on a bus/rv etc. The bonding will happen on the pole or in the genny. I used Romex throughout, ran it in conduit along any metal surface (ran along the bottom of the chair rail) and came out of the conduit in the wood walls, I dont know how in the world this stuff would break from vibration, it is a pain to work with. From reading everything that I could find, it seems that the solid vs stranded arguement has equal support on both sides although I do see the merit in using stranded, my wallet did not. This is a little off subject but maybe it will give you some future electrical ideas. I posted some (silly to an electrician) questions here about misc wiring ideas: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4264 and used their suggestions.
I'm wiring the shore inlet (twist Marinco 30 amp) using an old camper power cable to a 30 amp TT outlet next to the fuse panel and the inverter will be wired into a 15 amp outlet using a short extension cord with the female end cut off. Out of the breaker panel I will use the male end of the TT cable that was cut off and wire that to the 30 amp main. When I want shore I plug into the 30 amp outlet, when I want inverter Ill plug into the 15amp with an adapter. There will be no permanently mounted generator so the marinco will either be plugged into a pole or a generator which simplifies my setup a little. All lighting is DC wired with 12g cross linked automotive wire rated for a higher heat range from Delcity, got some flourescent lights from randpcarriages on ebay for main lighting and will add a few more. All DC is connected with either heat shrink butt connectors or DC crimp nuts with heat shrink on them.
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Old 06-23-2009, 02:20 PM   #13
Skoolie
 
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Quote:
Originally Posted by vanguy67
Quote:
Originally Posted by tfdfyrman
Well I am not versed in motorhome wiring but I will be wiring the bus based on code for a house.
You'll need to follow code for a "manufactured" home, not a "stick built" house.
DO NOT bond the neutral bar to the ground bar! This can end up making the skin of your bus "hot" and could give you a shock. Codes only allow ONE neutral-to-ground bonding point. In an RV campground, this point is at the pedestal you plug in to for power.
If you're not 100% sure how to do this, either don't do it yourself or buy a book ( or 2 or 10) on wiring motorhomes or mobile homes. We're not playing with flashlight batteries here....your life and/or the lives of people you love could depend on it.......
I agree with you on the manufactured home code. And you are correct as far as bonding. NEC states that you shall bond the system at the first means of disconnect. At a camp ground that is already estabilished, however, Gennies don't make their own ground, only a neutral. That is why gennies have a ground lug on the frame for you to ground it to the earth.(which no one ever does.) Therfore your panel would be the first means of disconnect. So for the record, I won't bond the two.
I don't think you were trying to insult me but I have been commercial/industrial electrician for 15 years, I realize I am not working with flashlight batteries
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Old 06-23-2009, 04:16 PM   #14
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Re: "Double Deuce"

It has a ground, per say....But it is not a "True" ground unless it makes contact with the earth. that is why is it called a "ground" The ground it uses when not bonded is merely a neutral.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:09 PM   #15
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Sorry if this has already been addressed but if you were to permanantly mount a portable genny, would you wire the ground lug to the body? Would the frame of the genny sitting on the ground (provided there is no rubber wheels or isolation) be suffucient in a portable situation?
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Old 06-26-2009, 07:00 AM   #16
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Bolting the frame of the gennie will ground it to the frame. Sitting the gennie on the ground, in theroy, will not provide sufficent grounding.
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Old 06-29-2009, 09:33 PM   #17
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Got some framing done this past weekend. I also have my outer steel skins in hand. I have to go have them sheered tomorrow so I can get them on. What is the best way to drill out these darn screws that won't come loose and rivets? I have burned up at least six bits. I have also been using a air chizel on parts that I am not concerned about damage.

Also does anyone have experience with buck rivets? Is this the best way to go? I have a mixture of screws and rivets on the outside of the bus. Most being screws. I think I may attach my sheet metal with new screws but will need to match the rivets in some places.

I will be making a trip to Colaws this week for some parts and maybe ordering windows from Tri State if I can't find them at the salvage.


My wife was incharge of pics and for some reason I was in everyone she took. lol. Sorry your just gonna have to look past my ugly mug.

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Old 06-29-2009, 09:46 PM   #18
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Re: "Double Deuce"

We decided the bus itself wasn't a challenge enough so we sold the rooftop air we had bought for $25 more than we paid for it and we are going to buy a couple of window shakers and do a basement style a/c system. I haven't decided if I want to split the evaporator and condensor or keep the whole unit together and duct the return and supply into the bus. Any thoughts on this?

I plan on building a large basement in this thing, most of the belly in fact. So things should be protected.

Oh We got a bunch more parts this weekend too. Bought the shower pan from a mobile home store. It is 32"x32" as well as a kitchen sink and bathroom sink. We also bought some insulation studs and some #1 pine to build the batroom cabinet. This is my first time building cabinets so I figure I would start with the smallest in the bus.
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Old 06-29-2009, 10:46 PM   #19
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Re: "Double Deuce"

I think the Thomas factory puts super glue on the screws and strips the heads when they build them to ensure you dont take their bus apart. We used a square bit on most of the screws (interior and exterior), went real slow and if they were going to strip I tapped them with a hammer to try and break them loose. The ones (many of them) that would not break free we cut straight down into the bolt heads with an air cut off wheel and then used an air chisel to pop the heads off. You can try to cut a slit in the head and use a flathead screwdriver if you dont want to dick up the metal around them. All of the rivets we did like this and it was really fast, with a slit cut into the head they pop right out. Wear safety glasses, the heads will hit you in the face with quite a but of speed.
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Old 06-30-2009, 10:07 PM   #20
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Re: "Double Deuce"

Woohoo. Got all my window steel cut today. It is ready to go on as soon as I get all those darn screws out. What type of adhesive/sealant should I use behind the sheeting in addition to screws? I think I will go back with some matching stainless steel screws to hold the sheeting on rather than rivets. I will save the rivet work for other areas. I also bought new led 6" oval tails, turns, and reverse lights today. It will be nice to get rid of all those school related lights.

Here is the two different configurations we are looking at. What say yee skoolie BB?

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