Im no painter... or carpenter or metal worked or cabinet maker but from what I have seen an air dry in the summer with high humidity will take forever to cure. They painted my interior roof panels (xo rust paint) in the spring with low humidity and it was soft for about a week, he told me not to buy it too. The floor they painted with an epoxy primer and regular paint and it was hard right away. The paint on the roof nicks and scratches easily still (3 months later) but the floor seems bulletproof. They guy where I store my bus told me that the paint with the hardener in it is junk (rustoleum etc) and will not hold up well in any sun exposed areas although he uses it alot on rims bumpers etc. I guess what Im saying is that, based on a guy that has painted equipment for 20 years, use a good paint with hardener. I believe he uses an accelerant too this time of year to speed curing. Just make sure you add the proper amounts as this type of paint will not cure without it. He just painted an excavator for me that the paint was still soft on, dont know how this will work out.
Ok the 100:2 "OZ" is what I was looking for. It doesn't specify it is oz's. The guy told me that I could use reducer if I wanted to thin it out but it wasn't neccessary. The primer i'm using is call Feather fill Generation 2 made by Evercoat.
Worked on the bus last night. I cut my fisrt hole in the side of it. That was nerving. Got my water tank mounted and my plumbing and water pump placement figured out. I just need to go buy a ton of Pex hardware to install it.
My wife was jonesing for a look of "progress" so we cut a panel and got it installed. We are using 1/4" finished plywood. I think I've heard it called Luan, or whatever but the plan is to paint or wall paper the walls and panel and paint the ceiling with too placing a stained trim strip every 24". I think it will look pretty good that way.
I am thinking about mounting a heater in this location, and building a return and supply plentum for it. This way I will have heat at the front and rear of the bus while driving.
Hey Double Deuce: Is there an access panel to the top of the engine/transmission under that rear seat?My RE Gillig has 2 removable panels, one under the seat and one in the floor. For my second bus, I'm going to make the middle section of my bed support frame removable. This will save innumerable headaches if I need service /repair. Might be more important for me, since I have a 10 speed. I imagine the floor panel is required to access the shift linkage for adjustment, and removal for clutch replacement. Might be something to look at /consider before it's too late!!
I have a question.
what happened in your battery box to cause all that black river of stain from under the door? did a battery commint suicide in there? or Perhaps something less sinister?
also panelling looking good i have done some similar framing on my thomas!!!
Thanks for the replys. The walls and ceiling will all be primed and painted. Maybe even wall papered. The only thing that will be stained are the cabinets. The Thomas buses don't have any access panels inside the bus. They probably should however since the Turbo is under there. I can always pull the bed boards up and cut in a access hole if I needed to. And yes the battery compartment is all rusted up. As a matter of fact, it is the ONLY rust on the whole bus. I will be redoing the entire compartment soon.
I have about had it with this freaking primer. I went and bought a gallon of medium reducer today. mixed it per instructions at 5%. Within 10 minutes I had this
This is the same result I had without using reducer. I don't no if I have a bad gallon of paint or what.
Anyway I moved on to putting up the panels. I only got one panel up and am ready to put some more up tomorrow.
I will definatley be buying a different primer to do the outside of the bus. It sucks though, that I spent $60 on that gallon and still have over half of it left. Maybe I can take it back with the above pic and get my money back.
We got the passenger side skined today. My neighbors came over and helped us too. I put my wife on grinder duty this morning and I was going behind her removing the screws and rivets. I tell you, of all the removal method used, cutting a slot in the screw and backing it out with a slot head is the easiest and cleanest. For the ones that broke off, I hit it with the air chisel. The black you see on one of the panels is rust converting primer. That was the bottom sheet on the pallet when I bought it and the pallet must have been wet. We started laying out for the two rear windows before calling it a weekend. Work tomorrow. Gotta get some rest.