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Old 09-05-2015, 12:30 AM   #21
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
LOL I like the deck/cooler idea. Do you have someone else drive while you chill on the deck with a cold beer?

Got some stuff done over the last few days. Going to put another long day in tomorrow, get the stairs done and the front enclosed. Prob 1 more day of sealing and riveting and I'll be able to go inside!



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Old 09-05-2015, 12:33 AM   #22
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
No more stairs


No more hole.

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Old 09-05-2015, 12:39 AM   #23
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
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This is the plan I built. It is to scale but I'm def going to make some changes. I'm going with a chest freezer for a frige, and a few other changes. I do like the idea of a fold down rear deck, maybe do that and keep the rear door. If I do that I need to figure out the bed issue. I have a queen bed and box spring that will be going in the rear bedroom. I may be able to weld up a frame on hinges that would fold up against the wall. Will have to look more into this once I get to working on the inside.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:55 AM   #24
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
Thoughts on this design? Bed down, nice space. Bed folded up, nice isle way from the rear door to the center hallway.

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Old 09-05-2015, 01:06 AM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
If the bed deal works out I would do something similar to this for a deck. I've also got a 2013 Super Tenere that I need to haul around. I would like to combine the deck with a bike hauler. Would def have to extend the hitch though. I don't planning on hauling more than 5-6K and I have a 2 1/2 receiver with a 15K load rating so that shouldn't be an issue.

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Old 09-06-2015, 01:17 AM   #26
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I like the removal of the stairs.

I always hated the location, the loss of floor space, and the lack of space for the passenger seat.



I would get some frame rails that fit into the original frame rails, and overlap the back 3 feet into the originals. This will give you a solid platform to start building from without having to worry about it being strong enough.

My 92 Ford B700 had 10 1/4 inch tall frame rails.

My 92 TC2000 had 9 7/8 inch tall frame rails.

My 76 Dodge D600 had 9 1/2 tall frame rails.

For the record, no bumper mounted trailer hitch is made to take more than around 600 pounds of weight. Trailer weight is completely different.

Nat
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:31 AM   #27
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 21
I thought about that but I don't know if I want that much overhang full time. There has been some spots that I've already drug the hitch pretty hard. Add 3' to it and I'll drag it on everything.

This is the hitch I have, don't think there will be an issue.

16,000lbs weight capacity & 2,400lbs tongue weight

I think I may build a platform on the back that sits at the same height as the top of the bumper, wide enough to carry my bike, then hinge it after that so the "deck" will hinge up and protect my bike, plus its high enough not to drag. Just mount the lights and plate on the bottom of the deck and call it a day.

Any thoughts on the bed idea? I will have to "burn" 8" or so to make it hinge because of the rear wall angle.
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Old 09-06-2015, 01:53 AM   #28
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,939
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
At least add hinges at each of the frame ends. Don't just use one center point of pivot.

When I say hinges, I mean some beefy pieces. Like 1/4 wall pipe and some minimum 1/2 solid rod.

As for the hitch, with a 5 foot extension 2400 pounds becomes less than 500 pounds due to leverage.

Nat
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